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I removed the front steering knuckles and had new bearings installed. Also replaced the right ball joint that was torn and greasing everything. I was very careful removing the sensor and reinstalling. Here is the important thing I want to ask. When everything was finished I started the car and the ABS light never went out, even before moving the car. I checked the connections before putting the rotors and wheels on, all looked good. As I drove for a bit the RED BRAKE Light came on also, then it went out now it is just the ABS light on all the time. Any tips or thoughts on troubleshooting?
The bearing is a National Bearing says it has the Integral ABS encoder seal where applicable. They installed it with the ring to the inside of the car.
Last edited by lynnpt2001; Jan 26, 2017 at 08:39 PM.
What DTC is logged in the ABS module????
That will be the place to start. The module knows what it thinks is wrong!!!!
Or we can all guess???
bob
I just finished tonight, my scanner does not do abs. I will have to get that checked. I have a fear that the guy installed the bearing backwards. I is a National 510099 bearing, one side has a silver metal seal and the other side had a redish brown seal, this is the side he put inside toward the car. Does anyone know which side of this type of bearing is the abs magnetic side? Brown or Silver. Here is a link to Amazon with pics
non metallic side of bearing (magnetised) I think where wires go into sender might have dirt in it,assuming this was disconnected for repairs, if not check wiring coming from sender up for breaks
I have had my front bearings replaced at least 4 times on each side. I have had this problem which was caused by the sensor ring in the bearing. The bearing was accidentally split by dropping it. I be faulty bearings out there where the magnetic sensor ring is not quite right. My fault only occurs at around 30mph which probably means one of the magnetic sectors is not right. WE have looked at the ABS graph and both look normal apart from odd spikes which may be the one sector missing. I will upload the graphs at some point. You can also get an ABS problem with a buckled wheel or I think a worn universal joint also caused it.
I have had my front bearings replaced at least 4 times on each side. I have had this problem which was caused by the sensor ring in the bearing. The bearing was accidentally split by dropping it. I be faulty bearings out there where the magnetic sensor ring is not quite right. My fault only occurs at around 30mph which probably means one of the magnetic sectors is not right. WE have looked at the ABS graph and both look normal apart from odd spikes which may be the one sector missing. I will upload the graphs at some point. You can also get an ABS problem with a buckled wheel or I think a worn universal joint also caused it.
So here is what I know so far. Could be the bearings installed are not compatible, could be both sensors, not likely, could be both of the wires to the sensors. I have 2 new sensors and wires on the way. If they dont correct the issue should I start over and replace with OEM bearings? Nothing else was touched and never had ABS light until the bearings were done. Codes are
1145
1155
1222
I will update when I install the new wires and sensors. I have noticed the light does not come on right away until I drive about 1/10th of a mile or so.....not sure what that means....
Hard to believe that both sensors would go bad at the same time or have wiring issues at the same time. Most likely the bearing wer installed incorrectly. Good luck. Hope you get it sorted out soon.
check connection at ABS module behind radiator-plug and unplug/check this connection.
Will do, but I have to go with some logic here, everything worked before the bearing change, wouldn't the issue be in the wheels? I am pulling the hub tonight and will see if there is apparent damage. Also bought a magnetic bearing test card, will use this as well....
MAYBE JUST MAYBE I FOUND THE PROBLEM. I took the hubs off today, checked the "NATIONAL" bearing with this magnet card, take a look at the differences of the magnets from the National Bearing to the New OEM bearing. The OEM bearing had more smaller segmented magnets. If logic serves correctly the National bearing would make the car think the wheel is going slower than it really is since fewer magnets are passing the sensor per revolution. Plan to have the OEM bearings installed tomorrow and will reinstall hubs tomorrow evening. If anyone has any light to shed please do before I switch them.
This is the National bearing currently in the hub, there are about 8 segments showing in the same space compared to 15 in the OEM bearing.
This is the OEM near bearing. About 15 segments in the same space compared to 8 in the National
UPDATE. New oem bearings are in and no ABS light......Cant tell you how relieved I am. Auto Zone gave me a refund when I showed them the magnet test card compared to the oem bearing. They had nothing to say.....so I recommend ONLY OEM ! And if you really want to be sure both before and after get the magnetic test card. $ 16.00 you can look at the magnets before and after they are pressed in to be sure they are in tact.....
I agree . I also had the same problem with National bearings. I took your advice and bought skf oem bearings and the abs light went out and problem resolved. Thank you so much for posting this thread, it saved me a lot of heartache.
Originally Posted by lynnpt2001
UPDATE. New oem bearings are in and no ABS light......Cant tell you how relieved I am. Auto Zone gave me a refund when I showed them the magnet test card compared to the oem bearing. They had nothing to say.....so I recommend ONLY OEM ! And if you really want to be sure both before and after get the magnetic test card. $ 16.00 you can look at the magnets before and after they are pressed in to be sure they are in tact.....
ABS Light after front bearing change
