In 2010 I parked my 2005 X-Type 3.0 Sport Automatic Trans.
It's only been started/moved a few times since then; (for a total of 8 miles)
March 2011 it had an oil change (conventional oil, not synthetic), and a full tank of premium gas, took it to get emissions tested and then parked it again.
Since then I started it once, maybe twice in 2012 and then nothing until a few days ago.

It currently has 41K miles on it and no mechanical issues when it went into storage in a Garage;
It hasn't been subjected to drastic temperature change or weather.

A few days ago I started it, let it warm up and then took it for a short drive down the street.
It seemed hot, although the temp gauge read normal condition.

When I popped the hood it had a bit of smoke coming from the rear of the engine near the firewall.
I assume a small oil leak onto the exhaust manifold?
Also the hose that runs from the crankcase and vents vapors back into the intake manifold had what appeared to be oily condensation on it.
Not sure why?

The tires were dry rotted and flat spotted from sitting for so long, I'm sure some gaskets and hoses may have experienced similar wear.

How should i go about bringing this car out of hibernation?
I plan on changing the oil (and should i go with synthetic?).
Should I change the coolant too? and drain the fuel?
I'll inspect hoses and look for leaks.

What else would you suggest?

I'm pretty good mechanically, although I have never stored a car for so long, and not aware what, if any parts will deteriorate over time,
and never had to do mechanical work on my Jaguar. It was still fairly new and under warranty back when I was driving it regularly.

Thanks in advance for your input.

 

Absolutely drain the fuel! Even a stabilizer won't keep if fresh for 4 years!

Use a gasoline with good detergent characteristics, maybe run some Seafoam with it to clean up the varnish. It may run ratty for a handul of miles, while the dried stuff in the injectors works itself out

Oil will likely have some condensate in it, I always make it a point to change even after a winter-only lock-up.

Have the battery load-tested. Lack of use is very bad on a starting battery.

The other fluids? Synthetic brake fluid does not absorb water, I'd run it for a bit, then check the others. If your coolant looks rusty, I'd flush and change, but aluminum doesn't rust like cast iron...

Give your hoses and tubes a good going over; they will dry-rot and split, so vacuum lines, the PVC hose, and the washer lines are suspect. The same for tires; they may flat-spot or dry-rot, although I've only ever lost one set that way.

Finally, if your interior is leather (Connelly Hide, if you please!), use a good grade of leather creme on it to get it nice and supple so it doesn't stretch unevenly and/or split on you.

Good luck with it!

 

Thanks!

I was hoping to hear the fuel would be ok haha but i had my doubts too.
Just not looking forward to draining / disposing of a full tank.
Although it didn't run rough or stumble at idle. I don't want it to have a chance to do damage.
Seafoam = excellent advice.

I'm sure the coolant looks fine, but I think I read the maintenance schedule said every 3 years?

My interior is the optional leather and alcantara, and its flawless.
The tires on the other hand, are completely rubbish.

Haven't gotten around to inspecting hoses and the like, anything in particular that could be leaking onto the exhaust manifold near the fire wall?
Whats back there that could fail?

I'm worried the oil pan gasket, but could inactivity cause that to fail? I'm hoping it's just the oil drain plug (is that possble to drip on exhaust?) I think they forgot to put the washer back on the plug a long time ago, cause the car has had a small leak for a while, even when it was used regularly.

If its been sitting for so long some oil could have collected undisturbed on the exhaust manifold.

The part i'm perplexed about is oilyness on the crankcase to intake manifold hose.

 

I thought from reading your Intro that the vehicle had been totally unused since 2010 but the minimal use in 2011 and 2012 halves this period. Nevertheless, fluids and rubber components will have deteriorated with time.

Basing your checks around all the items on the service schedule is a good place to begin:


(click on the image to enlarge it)

Note the recommendations on coolant and brake fluid.

It is fortunate the battery seems to have survived without regular attention. All modern Jaguars are sensitive to condition and many weird electrical issues can be caused by a failing battery. If you plan on further lengthy periods of storage, a battery tender is a good investment.

Rubber deteriorates with time as well as use. You have already noticed the tyres and these should be replaced if suspect. The usual recommendation is to replace tyres after ten years, regardless of wear for safety reasons. Not worth risking a high speed blowout.

Cooling system hoses need to be carefully checked. It's not unusual to find if one fails and is replaced, the next weakest then goes and so on.

Stopping a vehicle is more important than making it go. Unused brakes can have caliper pistons stick or seals leak/fail. Make a close inspection of brake, lines, flexi hoses and calipers for signs of fluid leakage.

Graham

 

In the last 4 years theres probably a total running time on the engine of less than an hour...maybe even less than half an hour? its hard to recall.
So yes, very minimal.

Its been through a couple batteries. I replaced it maybe a little over 2 years ago, it was dead again the other day but I charged it before starting the car.
Unsure yet how long if at all it will hold a charge without being driven.
I'll probably stop in and see the car on Sunday and start with maintenance and inspecting stuff.
Especially the brakes as you mentioned. I was cautious the other day when i took it for a short trip down the street, but i didn't do a visual yet.
It would be tragic if something blew under pressure.

Thanks also for posting the service schedule, I suppose a coolant change is in order.

 

I would also take a look at all your suspension bushes just so you do not get any nasty surprises.
struts and shocks also.
While your under the car would be a good time to change the fluids in the t-case and diff, also a little grease in the prop shaft carrier bearing would not hurt.
tranny fluid ??? up to you.

 

The pan gasket may be fine, and the valve cover gaskets may be as well; I suspect your fluid may be some leaked oil; the gaskets will dry out a bit, but should swell back up and reseal within a day or two.


I'll wager that when you pull the gas, it will actually smell sour; you 'might' mix it 50/50 with fresh fuel and burn it in a daily driver. My Chrysler van will burn swill very happily!

 

I'll try not to take a big whiff of the gasoline, and just assume you're correct haha.

I donated a year-old tank of fuel out of a RX7 i used to have to a friend's beater once.
He was quick to take it and pour it in his tank. Free fill up. Made his day.
(Un)fortunately my daily driver is a highly tuned turbocharged car.
No old gas is going in that thing.

I got a small job to do tomorrow morning, and then I'm going to grab some tools out of my garage and head over to my folks house where my Jag is waiting in limbo and I'll get to work.

For a 41k miles 3.0 what oil should i go with?
I had been running conventional.
Should i switch to synthetic?

 

OIL...now there is a loaded question!

Many say that Jag doesn't recommend synthetics, BUT the dealerships use Castrol 5W-30 Syntech!

I don't have enough Jag experience to say, but all of my other cars get the Syntech, and have for years. I'm going to ask mt indie tomorrow, since his family are all driving X-types, and I'm taking mine in for "my" first change in a few hours.

The previous owner has used regular Valvoline every 3K for the close to ten years they owned the car; my oil lab says that there is negligible wear visible in his oil.

My Rovers would happily use synthetic with no real lab changes for 2 years/ 10 K miles, my daily driver Chrysler was just changed at 15K, about 30 months, with only trace changes. Rover died at 140K from a bad hit, but the engine is happily perking along in another gent's truck at 250K, the T&C van is at 135K.

I may just stick with the Valvoline at 3k/6 months and let the lab tell the tale, or I might use a blend for a cycle or two and then switch. My only concern is that synthetics sometimes are a bit more prone to leakage and my Jag will be looking at an oil pan gasket change come spring...so I may not mess with success for now!

 

Good luck getting X re commissioned & back on the road . I think I would start with a full service including plugs all fluids & filters . Then a decent road run to check for moans & squeaks & rattles. Then back home & a good drips/leaks check . At least then you will know the way forward & be able to eliminate cetain items.

 

Didn't see anybody say brake fluid which by now is probably 1/2 water.