Aftermarket Catalytic Converters
#1
Aftermarket Catalytic Converters
I had to replace both catalytic converters after suffering DTC codes P0420 & 0430 for some time. I ended up purchasing the following cats -
Evan Fischer New Kit (Bank 1 & Bank 2) Catalytic Converter Jaguar X-Type 2002-2003, EPA Approved Catalyst 5-Year/50k-Mile Limited Warranty for $254.07 total delivered. The limited warranty on the Evan Fischer cats is as good or better as the higher priced cats I found.
Compare these to other after market cats at starting around $260 per cat or OEM cats at around $1575 each.
These cats are advertised as “Direct Fit”, however, the fit up between the cat outlet and exhaust pipe is not exact. The cat outlet is a few millimeters larger than the OEM cat outlets. We ended up using high temp RTV to seal the joint, since expanding the old exhaust pipe to exact fit would likely cause the pipe to fracture due to loss of ductility over the years.
The firewall side cat bolting tabs had to be adjusted slightly to fit.
These cats do not come with heat shields and there is no way to reconnect the heat shields from the old OEM cats to the new ones, so we used heat shield boundary tape to wrap the new cats.
These cats are only sold for use in 48 states, excluding California and New York.
After 1 week, the cats are performing as advertised, the codes are clear. Will update if I observe any issues or failures in the near future.
Evan Fischer New Kit (Bank 1 & Bank 2) Catalytic Converter Jaguar X-Type 2002-2003, EPA Approved Catalyst 5-Year/50k-Mile Limited Warranty for $254.07 total delivered. The limited warranty on the Evan Fischer cats is as good or better as the higher priced cats I found.
Compare these to other after market cats at starting around $260 per cat or OEM cats at around $1575 each.
These cats are advertised as “Direct Fit”, however, the fit up between the cat outlet and exhaust pipe is not exact. The cat outlet is a few millimeters larger than the OEM cat outlets. We ended up using high temp RTV to seal the joint, since expanding the old exhaust pipe to exact fit would likely cause the pipe to fracture due to loss of ductility over the years.
The firewall side cat bolting tabs had to be adjusted slightly to fit.
These cats do not come with heat shields and there is no way to reconnect the heat shields from the old OEM cats to the new ones, so we used heat shield boundary tape to wrap the new cats.
These cats are only sold for use in 48 states, excluding California and New York.
After 1 week, the cats are performing as advertised, the codes are clear. Will update if I observe any issues or failures in the near future.
#2
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PanamaJag (12-09-2017)
#3
Bought the car with the CEL on and throwing 0420/0430 codes. One cat was totally empty of material (aka only a shell), the other had also broken down inside and still had "rattlers" when it was shaken.... Found out that the previous owner had received car new as a graduation gift from his parents, and based on the condition of the car when I bought it, did not concern himself with upkeep.
Had full tune up performed after replacing cats - plugs, coils, upper & lower manifold gaskets, flows/trims set, etc. Figured while was in there may as well get it all done....
Had full tune up performed after replacing cats - plugs, coils, upper & lower manifold gaskets, flows/trims set, etc. Figured while was in there may as well get it all done....
#4
#6
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innzane (12-23-2017)
#9
PanamaJAG
Thank you! Thank you for this valuable information. Mine need to be replaced - two mechanics told me that my car would run perfectly well without replacing them. While I live we do not have emissions tests. BUT I would like to get them replaced. I was quoted $2,500.00 +/- for the work.
#10
Thanks for the information, I'll likely order a set myself for my 2005 2.5L that failed inspection with persistent 0420 codes that didn't go away with new O2 sensors (you gotta dream).
Did you do the work yourself? I am looking at the JTIS and concerned about the number of alignment tools and measurement tools and the special jack to get the subframe out but looking from underneath the car I don't see how it can be done with the subframe in place. I'm not sure it can be done at all looking at those rusty bolts on the firewall side cat mount tabs. Any pointers on how much disassembly is required would be much appreciated.
Did you do the work yourself? I am looking at the JTIS and concerned about the number of alignment tools and measurement tools and the special jack to get the subframe out but looking from underneath the car I don't see how it can be done with the subframe in place. I'm not sure it can be done at all looking at those rusty bolts on the firewall side cat mount tabs. Any pointers on how much disassembly is required would be much appreciated.
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