Okay, so driving home from the local hockey game. Get a check engine light. Go to autozone or auto something. Turns out to be a P0420. ANOTHER F***ing O2 sensor? DOes some one want to tell me how many o2 sensors our cars have so i can just replace them all.

And i just had one replaced.

 

4 in total: one in each exhaust manifold and one screwed into the side of each cat converter. P0420 is for Bank 1....the "back" bank nearest the windshield.

 

P0420 in a Cat Converter fault for bank 1, which is the Cat converter in the back and not the front. P0420 is not an O2 sensor fault code. You need a new Catalytic Converter for the back of the engine.

 

Stu, sorry to hear that I had a bad cat on my first X-Type in the same position. I found one from a salvaged 2004 at a junkyard to save money. go to Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market it searches junkyards all over the U.S. and you can filter queries for the best options.

hope that helps.

 

grrr. Okay so which cat is it, is the front cat closest to the windshield and the back car closet to the rear. I hate emissions technology. And are you guys positive its a cat?

 

The back cat converter, the one closest to the windsheild. It's a b@#4H to do even on a lift. You probably don't want to do it yourself on the street. The subframe has to come out, never seen anybody do it any other way.

 

If you open the hood and you look at the engine, it's the cat converter in the back, NOT in the front near the radiator, its in the back near the firewall.

 

Sigh...i was afraid of this. Owell whats another repair bill. SO im guessing its a pretty big job then ehh?

 

It is a decent job. I'm getting set to do it myself... Here is the step by step that I got from an ASE Jag foreman:

1. From the inside remove the 10mm bolt holding the steering shaft to the stub shaft then remove the 10mm bolt holding the stub shaft from the rack. Be careful that the steering shaft does not spin as this will damage the clockspring.
2. Disconnect the oxygen sensors. This is all you will need to disconnect from the top.
3. From underneath remove the lower balljoint pinch bolts, rear exhaust pipe, front of the driveshaft, transmission cable, 8mm bolts holding the power steering lines to the frame, the 15mm tierod nuts, 15mm nuts on the sway bar links and the 15mm bolts holding the rear mount to the frame. Then remove the two 18mm bolts and 13mm bolts on the rear of the frame and let it hang down.
4. Remove the T40 torx bolt holding the lines to the rack. Pop the lines off and try to cap them so you do not lose all the power steering fluid. Then remove the front subframe bolts and knock out the balljoints. You will need an assistant to help you remove the frame.
5. Jack up the engine from the front and pull the frame down and slide it back. Once out of the way remove the two 10mm bolts holding the cat to the bracket, remove the 8mm bolts on the heat sheild, and the 8mm nuts which are on the valve cover gasket studs which holds the other sheild. Then remove the 13mm nuts. If you are lucky the studs will come out with the nuts. If not then you will need to cut the studs.
6. Drop out the converter.

 

Benchmark makes direct fit cats, hoping to add some good to your bad news. MUCH cheaper than OEM.