I have posted before and will do it again as an SOS. I have a 2002 X Type, 2.5, liter, auto with 70k. I have an issue where it starts like a champ on even the coldest Minnesota mornings regularly - 10 to -20 f. ONLY when it's really cold it sputters and idle too slow ( 400 0 to 450 not the usual 1250- 1500 you would associate with a cold fast idle. It barley idles and makes a popping noise until it finally idles right about 850-1000 meanwhile it often kicks off misfire codes like 300...306 etc.

After it's warm if runs PERFECT and starts and stops all day without a problem. This only happens when it's really cold.

In attempt to remedy this I have done the following:

1. Replaced the intake manifold gaskets between the upper and lower plenum.

2. Replaced the 2 big O Rings on the intake manifold.

3. Replaced the coolant temp sensor

4. Throughly checked and inspected all vacuum lines. I did not find any of the usual suspects like the PVC line split. I did put clamps on everything just to tighten things up.

5. I recently replaced the spark plugs about 10k ago at the same time I cleaned the throttle body.

6. I installed an oil pan heater that I use on cold nights-didn't work.

After, the car gets through the first three minutes it runs perfect all day.


Any insightful suggestions would be greatly appreciated but don't tell me to take it to a mechanic because I am a mechanic and discussed this with a number of my peers and we can figure it out.

If it was a vacume leak why would it only be a problem when it's cold? Usually vacume leaks cause lean codes like 171?

If it were the plugs or a coil it would be more consistent not just 2 minutes a start up

Someone on this forum said it's the throttle body-but I dont get an associated codes and dont see why it would a problem only at cold start up.

 

I am far from a mechanic, but could it have something to do with the fuel delivery; injector issues, etc.? If there are no vacuum leaks could it just be getting too little gas until something warms up a bit? From your description it sounds like it is something is sticking slightly because of the cold and then once it warms a bit it works the way it should. Hope you can get it sorted soon.

 

I thought is more likely something tightens up from the heat of the warm engine expending the metal a few thousandths thus sealing up the vacuum leak. If an engine has few delivery issue it usually is hard to start because the pump takes longer to pressurize the system or the fuel pressure regulator is letting too much fuel return to the tank.

Last fall, when the temps were in the fifties it did the same thing but after I replaced the six upper plenum gaskets it went away until the onset of the real cold weather the symptoms re-manifested. I am wondering if the lower plenum gaskets, those that directly abut the cylinder head are prone to failure also?

 

Mine does the same thing at those temps (somewhere between -15 F ~ -20 F [-26 C ~ -29 C]), it gets balky about wanting to idle smoothly or at the proper speed. It, too, will burp, sputter and occasionally misfire.

I was thinking it was just the oil was too thick and syrupy, and considered an oil heater, too. Glad to know that doesn't really help. My next thought is the Spark Plugs, as I have replaced them on other vehicles and it improved similar problem cold-weather problems.

10K miles can be a lot on some Spark Plugs. Maybe swap them out again? Also, it might be a programming thing, that the computer doesn't understand it's that cold and won't let it run as rich as it needs to.

I dunno.

On the other hand, it's going to be cold like this only six more months in our neck 'o the woods, maybe the problem will go away come June.

(I'll be watching this thread for the same advice. I hope someone out there knows the fix!)

Brrrrrrrrrr... Minnesota!

~Bruce in Sunny North Dakota

 

Quit bragging about that - 20 -30 stuff. Down in Minneapolis it usually gets to only to minus 10 to 20 and usually one or twice a year it gets to minus 25 or 30. But now that Obama's been in it getting worse. Solar flair activity is way down so need more green house gases.

 

You forget the most important (for the mixture) temperature sensor - this in MAF sensor. So-called INTAKE AIR TEMPERATURE SENSOR.

 

Think I found my problem

 

I started the car this morning with an ambient temp of about 8 f. It ran like crap and triggered a check engine light and even a blinking check engine light signifying a misfire. I didn't let it even get close to warm and shut if off after 30 seconds. I just gave up,

Later in the day about 2 PM, temp about 14f , I started instantly and it ran perfect; fast idling perfectly 1200 for a few moments then dropped to 1000 until the motor heated up and ran perfect no misfires nor burping So go figure?

In my whole life, I have owned three English cars, a TR7, a great Landrover Disco and now this Jag, they all great styling, handling and performance but they all characteristically have to have some flaws that keep them from being at same level of quality of their German Counterparts. ( I have owned five BMWs). I think it's part of the English psyche to tolerate and even embrace the flawed like crooked teeth and over bread monarchs.

Just joking, I like the car but I just wish I didn't have to tend to it so much. It's only got 70,000 miles.

 

It's 14 degrees wind chill probably zero car started with a really really rough idle hanging around 750rpms

I changed that vacuum leak..not sure what else will cause this..bad coils I heard? Just replace the spark plugs

 

You think British cars are bad ??? Dont even think about buying a French or Italian one !!

 

I totally agree, that Italian and French cars are worse. American cars are not so great either especially Dodges. What I am trying to say is that English Cars have style, performance and handling but they always have some flaw that keeps hold them back from greatness akin to a beautiful, curvaceous girl who has an ugly pimple on the tip of her nose.

I owned a TR7, years ago and loved the car but after my Sunday drive, I always had to attend to either an electrical or carburation problem. I used to keep a small mallet in the glove box to periodically bash the float bowls as needed.

I own a Land Rover Discovery, which I really like but it's sold cold and drafty in the winter. air leaks in from every crevice. The front drive shaft went out because it's too close the front cat. I am in constant fear of the head gaskets going out or the 3 Amigos popping up. Thank God it's a Disco 2 not a 1 because there door sills rust so badly the door striker falls off and you cant close the back door!! I have a BMW X3 of similar mileage and age and it just never seems to have any issues.

Now this Jaguar that had only 59k when I bought it has had issues with the intake gaskets, the catalytic converters, the window shield washer outlets always freeze so I have to go out with a kettle of hot water and thaw them out. Sometimes, the car mysteriously goes into limp mode and requires disconnecting the battery to clear code 1000. Plus I just discovered horrible rust on the front lower corner of the door sills. Fortunately, I took the rocker panel sills off and discovered just how bad it was starting to be so I slathered on pints of POR 15 in the affected areas and made king of IV from a flexible funnel to pour POR 15 into inside of the metal. Apparently, Jag or Ford didn't paint the interior metal of what is effectively a conduit so it rusts horribly so much so that it compromises the structural integrity of the frame if unchecked or repaired.

Take a look in the lower corners of your from door frames and I am sure you will see an orange hue then take to rocker facia off and you will the full extent of the damage. If you have an robust metal left it must be treated but bear in mind it's rusting from the inside out so you are going to have get the rust inhibitor inside the hollow structure. I actually temporarily plugged the drain holes so the rust inhibitor could not drain out before it set and used the "IV" set up to get it in there. Granted this is not a permanent fix but I am sure I bought a couple of years time before it totally disintegrated.

PS, my Jaguar was from Florida so you cant blame Minnesota road salt.

I challenge you to take a look; you may not like what you see but at least you might be able to save your car before you have to cut and weld.

 

The rust issues are legion on '02-'03 X-Types. I discovered my '03 rust in 2010 and did a fix then (04/10) taking some photos along the way and posting here. (Do a search in this Forum for "X-Type Rust"). After removing the fenders and front doors I cut out the worst areas at the front edge of the sill on both sides and welded in patch panels. I also drilled a 1/2" access hole under the polished Jaguar sill plate and sprayed in POR-15 and later WaxOyl, fitting the holes with plastic plugs and covering them with the sill plate. The area that was visible on the base of the A-pillar was filled and painted to match so it isn't noticeable.


The cause is as you have said: either corrosion inhibitor was never applied to the inner sill or it was incomplete. X-Types sit lower in front and any water that gets into the sills naturally sits in this area which has no drain hole. The rust starts there and over time spreads rearward.


Soon I'm going to use Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating spray with the extension hose and multi-directional tip and respray the inner sills. The tip is a little wider than the drain holes on the sills but I may open them up a bit with a drill and spray the entire length through the bottom - that way nothing has to be removed. I've used this product and it sprays easily and creeps into crevices and hardens in 24 hours. It's a phenolic coating which is supposed to encase the rust and stop it from spreading. It's not a cure but it should slow down the corrosion.