My first post. Have acquired a 2006 X-Type that wasn't maintained very well. Put many hours into it and enjoyed doing so. I'm hearing a whirling sound that seems to be coming from either the rear differential or maybe the gearbox. Sounds exactly like my 1967 Dodge Dart rear end when it went out. What's different about this is that it comes and goes with different speeds. It used to be just between 25 and 35mph. Now is between 35 and 55mph.From the driver's seat it's really hard to tell. It sat for a year in a field as the previous owner said it never made that sound before. I checked the rear end fluid and was shy about a pint and I topped it off. Any suggestions or experience with this problem? Thanks in advance..

 

Jeff, under the driver's seat on the exterior of the car is a piece called a carrier bearing (carries the rear drive shaft). Take a grease gun and a needle attachment and grease that bearing. That should quiet things.

 

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ring-faq-9853/

 

Thanks for the tip. Maybe thats why I couldn't determine if it was in the front or the rear.LOL I'll give it a shot tomorrow after work.

 

Thanks for that info. I've done that trick on my riding mower bearings before. i'll give it a try Thanks,

 

Jeff, the big thing I will tell you is that one side is pretty hard to get the needle in as it has steel parts there. But, the other side has rubber flaps. The needle slides in pretty easy from there. Slide the needle in 3 or 4 different places and inject some grease. Lets see what you have from there.

 

OK, thanks. Just picked up a new needle (couldn't find my old one) will work on it tomorrow.

 

I would also check the oil level in the transfer case.There was only 550ml of oil to start, and I have seen many that have run out of oil and destroyed the pinion bearings.

There is a plug on the side of the case, which is neither a low point drain, nor a fill point. It's about half way up. However, if you remove the plug and no oil comes out, you have a problem! The way to fill it is to jack up the left side of the car at each end, to tip the car on it's side. Lift the bottom of the rocker panel 21" off the ground and then fill with 75W-140 synthetic gear oil until it comes out the hole, and put in the plug. The transfer case seems to run quite hot, so synthetic oil is essential. Either Motorcraft, Liqui Moly or Valvoline meet the specification.

 

Great info thanks. So I don't need a Special "European" blend? I read somewhere that it may damage the TC if not.

 

Jeff, the transfer case uses a full synthetic 75W-140 gear lube. Before you pull the plug on the transfer case, read up on how to do a fluid change. There is only 1 plug that you can access which is both for draining and refilling. I am sure right now you are wondering WTF. This is where we have 3 solutions. A member at one time was selling a special check valve assembly that you screwed into the transfer case in place of the plug to allow draining and filling, I created a valve that you put in there to allow you to drain and then had a cap on the end you could then put a tube on the end to push the fluid back in (shutting the valve once you had the fluid in), or others jack up the car, drain, then tilt the car to the side (need to get the driver's side up so the sill is about 24 inches off of the ground (car is leaning pretty good). That then allows you to refill without spilling.

 

Should I suck the rest of the old oil out and replace with all new?

 

It's very difficult to do, as right behind the drain plug is the pinion gear. About the biggest hose you can get in there is 1/8" nylon tubing and a syringe to suck it out.

 

Well I tipped it on its side… LOL got most of it out and it’s dark brown with ultrafine metallic particles which doesn’t sound good and was barely coming out while car was level so it was low.
Also, The drive shaft bearing look like it was in decent condition and I injected grease into it with a needle valve and then engaged the drive line while I was up on all four Jacks and a lot of the grease came back out of the bearing seal.

 

I'm in the middle of a transfer case rebuild, and I have looked at a number in the junkyard. Every one was low on oil, or had nearly no oil and all were full of metal particles. Metal in the oil seems normal, but certainly not good.

 

Well everything went OK I drained and refilled xfecase. I'm going to drive it for a week and do it again as I have about 500 ml of lube left and know I didn't get all the old oil out. GLad to hear that they all have metal shavings in them...maybe from "break-in" period? I have a heated garage and didn't hear any noise from the drive shaft support bearing so I'll check that out in the morning.

Thanks for your help.

 

The earlier ones I have looked at have a viscous coupling, and there is a slight bit of movement between the coupling and the mating gear, that creates wear patterns of the teeth and metal shavings. The coupling and gear sit on dowel pins and there is a slight bit of movement between them.

The pinion bearings also have a high preload, probably too high. Here is one bearing race that started to spall apart under the load.

 

Interesting! I had the car out all day and it was very quiet. I think that the gear oil was so tacky and low that it wasn’t covering all the components especially when cold. It even feels smoother as I used to be able to feel the teeth of the gears “slightly” when backing out of the garage. I’m looking forward to doing another fluid change this weekend but this time I’ll run it hot so it flows out more thoroughly.

 

What’s your thoughts on transmission oil change? I can only imagine that that oil cannot be in good condition based on what I’ve seen with everything else on this car. I read where one guy just opened the drain plug and measured how much oil was in it and refill it with the same amount but I need to know how much capacity and what type of oil so I don’t trash any of the seals. Do you see any benefits to this?

 

I did a transmission oil change recently, and I think it was worth it. The old oil came out very dark and seemed runnier than new oil. There is a drain plug on the bottom of the transmission, and the fill plug is a rubber cap between the battery and the water pump.

There are a number of writeups here about changing the oil, what I did was drain the old, and I was getting around 2 L per draining; I can't remember the exact amount. Refill with new oil, of the amount you drained out. Start the car and run it for 14 seconds. Then repeat the draining and filling. I did this 4 times in total, so I used about 8-9 L of oil. I used a small funnel and hose that just fit inside the filler tube, but it's lengthy process to fill with new oil.

I used Ravenol JF506E, as it is oil designed specifically for this transmission and meets the Jaguar spec. Other have used the multi - transmission oils, but I have never been a fan of them when the proper oil is available at a reasonable price. I bought 4 of the 4 L jugs, and I have one sealed one left as a spare.

 

Thanks for that information that’s exactly what I’ll do. I looked at some older post from 2014 and was laughing my face off at the heated debates. I’d rather spend an extra $30 on proper oil then $4000 for a new transmission. Looks like I can only get that fluid online.