Hello all, I'm brand new and i just wrote my intro over in that section so hello!

As the title states, my 2003 Jaguar X-Type has both front doors (driver and passenger) not responding to the key-fob unlock or lock buttons. When I press the lock or unlock buttons, the rear doors both respond perfectly. Using the key I can manually unlock the drivers door from the outside no problem, and then reach over and pull the lock on the passengers side. Oh also, manually locking/unlocking the two front doors does lock and unlock the rear doors fine, just not either of the front ones unless it too is manually locked/unlocked. Automatic locks when the car is driven, again work fine on the rear door locks but not on the front.

Any ideas? I think it is likely the lock actuators on the front two doors but I just wanted to check on here in case there may be something causing the front ones not to be working besides that. Cheapest locations to buy replacement actuators/other parts would also be really helpful if you think you know what it is.

Thanks in advance!
-Matt

 

Hi, the locks for all doors are controlled through the GECM. Have you tried a hard reset by disconnecting the battery and touching the leads together for a few minutes. Reconnect the battery and try again. This resets the vehicle modules. Remember you will need to reset your radio and the windows.
Also check the battery voltage. Should be 12.4 or above when not running and 13.9-14.2 after 3 minutes running.

Roger

Roger

 

I would try to first get a good spray lubricant and thoroughly spray the lock assemblies. A little corrosion will prevent them from operating properly.

 

So I'm going to try and spray the locking mechanism once the door panel is off first. Then I'll move onto the battery method of resetting the modules. My question on that though is this, I don't think I have my radio code so how do I get it? And how would I reset the windows?

 

Is this a common issue, for the GECM to cause lock problems, I would like to know more about this process of resetting the modules for the locks if there is a guide somewhere.

 

I don't think there is a radio code for USA models.

 

Oh nice, yeah I've read this before as well I hope its true.

 

Okay so I tried greasing the locks on both the front doors from the inside of the door handles, as well as the locking mechanisms on the edge of the open front doors. No luck. I did however notice though that the driver door lock is making a mechanical whirring noise as if it's trying to lock and unlock when the fob buttons are pushed or i manually lock and unlock it. The passenger front door makes no noise at all, so I'm guessing that lock actuator must be replaced.
I suppose I'll try the reset next on the battery.

Oh one other thing, when I lock the drivers door manually from the inside while the Jag is sitting stationary, the rear doors lock and then unlock for some reason. What's that about?

P.S. May be worth mentioning my trunk latch is only able to be opened by pushing the button on the trunk as well, no fob either.

 

This is looking really odd. You now have three locks that do not work.
Have you tried reading for codes.
How old is the battery as these cars are notorious for odd electrical things to happen when the battery is in a low state of charge. There should be at least 12.4v, ideally 12.6v.
For the locks to lock and unlock when trying to lock means there is something telling he ECM that a door is not closed but as it is random I still think there is something else affecting this.
Did this happen all of a sudden or is it something that occurred over time.

Roger

 

The battery is actually brand new, I just bought the car last week and it was running on a low charge battery for about 3 weeks before that so this is starting to add up I think. As far as if this just happened or if it was gradual I don't honestly know. You think the ECM module reset will fix this? What is the exact procedure for that? I had no idea a low battery could affect door locks functionality.

 

So I hard reset the GECM by disconnecting the battery for 8 minutes and then reconnecting, I made sure that it reset the modules and it did indeed. So now I'm leaning more towards just defective or jammed actuators on both front doors. Bummer but not the worst thing in the world, actually pretty easy to replace. Any suggestions for good and or cheap parts?

 

I am thinking you will have to remove the door card and check the drivers door lock first. It could be that the lever has disconnected or bent to the actuator but you will see that. Then check the operation and act accordingly.
For replacements I cannot recommend anywhere in the US but E Bay may have some.

Roger

 

Thanks so much for all your help so far Roger, I'll look into removing the door panel tomorrow and checking out what's up with the driver door lock actuator first. Also, if you don't mind; I bought a new KeyFob off of ebay, I can't program it until it's cut correct? Where all can I get it cut and programmed to my car?

 

you should be able to get the key cut anywhere they cut ford keys, as they are the same. athey may be able to code the chip too. However if they cannot coding the chip to the car can be done with SDD. Coding the Fob can be done manually and I will double check how this is done and come back to you but at the moment I am going to bed as it is 1.30am here. Goodnight.

Roger

 

okay wonderful good night, I'll await more info.

 

After conducting some open-door surgery today, I unfortunately was unable to fix either door locks. Opening the door panel revealed very little except that I could see and clearly hear the driver door actuator trying to work and failing. I manually pushed the threaded wire many, MANY times to lock and unlock the door on my own thinking maybe I could work out the gunk or 'jam'. Each time activated the motor in the actuator but the stubborn jerk refused to budge when I tried with the key fob. So no luck there. Could this be a jammed gear or maybe something in that ballpark?
On the passenger side there was nothing at all, no noise or even a way to lock it manually by pulling on the bar inside the door, besides the threaded wire connected to the actuator.

So I'm guessing at this point I'll have to replace the drivers side lock actuator for sure, and if I'm lucky maybe that will somehow fix the passenger side as well. If not, well that'll be next. It seems like a pretty easy repair to me from what I saw on the inside of the door panel.