My 2003 x-type dies on me on high way the other day and I can't restart it at all. After had her back home, I found that there is no fuel pressure in the rail, so most likely it is a fuel pump issue, right? Then I remove the back seat and there is a electric connector under it. There is around 10.6VDC between red and yellow line. (The battery is around 11.5V right now after sitting out there for around 2 weeks). If I remove the fuse F81, there is no voltage between the red and yellow line, so I believe those 2 are the fuel pump positive and ground. My questions are:
1. Can I safely say that I had a bad pump/control module? Any further steps?

2. From JTIS, there should be 2 more connectors, fuel pump connector FT002, and fuel pump controller CA105, where are they? Do I need to drop the fuel tank first to locate them? .

3. I know this is a 6 hrs job in the dealership, but since $1200 is kind of expensive, I'd like to hear more advice from you guys regarding DIY it.
4. There are quite a few fuel/breath lines connected to the fuel tank, do I need to pay special attentions to them when I remove the tank?


Attachments: 1,2 are the fuel tank pics from ebay, 3,4 connector CA105 and FT002.

Thank you all for any useful input.

 

waynefay, you are correct in that the red and yellow wires are your power wires for the fuel pump. What I would tell you to do is to set up 2 things. You first want a multimeter connected across the red and yellow wires. Secondly, under the hood, find the schrader valve for the fuel rail and connect up a pressure gauge (needs to read up t0 60 psi at a minimum). Now, with a fully charged battery (may need to do this before hand), turn the key to the "RUN" position (do not attempt to start the car). You should see the multimeter jump up to around 12 VDC and the fuel pressure gauge go to around 50 psi fuel pressure. If you see 12 VDC and less than 45 psi of fuel pressure, then your fuel pump is toast. If you get 12 VDC and the 50 psi of fuel pressure, then you have another problem (most likely electrical) with the car. If you don't get 12 VDC, then you are looking at a bad fuel pump module or the power coming to the module is having issues (but based on your initial check, it isn't appearing that way).

Hopefully this gets you going in the right direction. As for dropping the gas tank, it isn't too bad as long as you don't have a lot of gasoline in it. Keep in mind that every gallon of gas is about 7 pounds. So, if you have a full tank of gas, that can add up to 100 pounds to the project if you are doing it at home. The hardest part of dropping the tank is getting the rear driveshaft out of the way. Once you do that, the rest should be pretty straight forward.

 

Thanks a lot Thermo. There is no pressure from that valve, but I will get a fully charged battery and give it another try.

 

Sounding like a failed fuel pump to me. You can normally get your head near the gas tank (specifically near the right rear passenger door) and with the aide of a second person, you can flip the key to the RUN position (do not attempt to start the car) and you can hear the fuel pump run. if you hear the fuel pump run but no pressure, then that pretty much confirms a bad fuel pump. if no sound, then I would still give the wiring a look just to confirm. Could be something as silly as the wiring inside of the fuel tank has failed.

 

Thanks again Thermo. I saw your other post mentioned that the inertia switch should have 0VDC reading in green/red wire. My question is, what does the inertia switch kill if it is activated. Fuel pump only or both fuel pump and ignition? Just want to pin point the problem before I order the new part.

 

wayne, let me look at the diagrams and do a double check. As I recall, it is only the fuel pump since if you remove the fuel, the motor will turn itself off, then the coils are no longer sparking.

 

Thermo, things are more complicated. I just use a jump cable to connect my car with a running car to make sure I get 12VDC on the battery. Here is what I got. From the 3 wires on the inertia switch, I got 0 on green/blue, 10.60VDC on green/red, 11.58 on green/orange. However, I can still get 10.90VDC from the red and yellow wire under the back seat. When I unplug the inertia switch, the reading will drop to 0 (actually 0.25 or so). So, is this really fuel pump issue? or inertia switch? or somewhere else? Onething I need to mention is that when I unplug the inertia switch, the information panel shows 'transmission fault' and 'cruise not available'. If I plug it back, the transmission fault will disappear and cruise not available still there. If I turn the key to 0 and back to run again, the message will disappear. Couldn't pull out any code from OBDII reader.

 

Wayne, looking at the drawing, when you are involved in an accident, the inertia switch kills pretty much everything under the hood. Hence why when you pull the plug on the inertia switch, you get a bunch of codes and warning lights.

Based on the voltages that you are seeing, it would appear to me that you have a bad inertia switch. You are getting too large of a voltage drop across that switch. Now, you start adding in the other loads that are going to be running when the motor is running, it is very possible that you simply are not pushing enough power to the fuel pump, which will then cause it to run low on pressure.

What I would like you to try is to get yourself some solid core 18 or 16 gauge wire and cut a piece about 3" long. Strip back the ends about 1/2". Now, with the car parked and the ignition off, pull the plug on the inertia switch and install the jumper wire between the green/orange and the green/blue wires. Make sure that your doors are unlocked before you do this as this will affect your ability to unlock the doors. Now, attempt to start the car. If the car runs fine, then you have a bad inertia switch. If the car still will not start, reperform the voltage measurements at the fuel pump (like you did before. You can also perform the quick functionality check of moving the key from the OFF position to the RUN position as you listen for the fuel pump to run. If you hear the fuel pump run, then that will confirm the bad fuel pump. You can also check the fuel pressure again.

Hope this helps to clear things up for you. The only thing that I ask is that you don't drive the car with the inertia switch bypassed. It is installed in the car for a reason. A quick trip around the block to verify things, that is your call.

 

Thermo, thank you for the step by step instruction. I just did what you asked me to, a jumper wire from green/blue to green/orange, but I got no luck here. Still, no sound from fuel tank, no pressure from that valve under the hood (no pressure at all when I press the stem in that valve). The readings are all similar between using the jumper wire and the plug on the switch (green/orange:11.5, green/red:10.5, fuel pump: 10.8). You can see there is a little bit of drop on the readings this time since I didn't hook it up with a running car. I have no clue where went wrong right now.

 

wayne, it is sounding like a fuel pump then. I would start there and then see what you have at that point.

 

Thermo, I can't say how grateful I am for your help. Will check the fuel pump and update the status.

 

Hi, I know this is an incredibly old thread, but I wanted to post a word of Thanks for those who previously posted their issues and troubleshooting steps!

I'm helping my dad with his 2002 X-Type 3.0 Sport Manual, which had a non-functioning fuel pump. Car was sitting in garage for over 1 year, and failed to start but would crank after a new battery was installed. I followed the troubleshooting steps (engine started after spraying ether into intake throttle body), but would not run without ether, plus no fuel pump sounds. This was after I first checked for fuel pressure at the schrader valve, on fuel line, by intake manifold. Next, I checked the fuel pump fuse, tested the fuel pump module connector, and saw momentary power (12 volts) when testing pins 10 (fp positive) and 3 (fp negative) with key placed in on position. Out of frustration, I searched for the fuel pump wiring colors at the under-rear-seat fuel pump, fuel level sender connector and found this thread!
Thank you again! After verifying the color codes for the fuel pump wiring (red fp positive), and (yellow - fp ground), I disconnected the fp module; also disconnected the fp connector and battery. Then I connected 12 volts from my VOM / tester, and heard the pump operate! After hearing the fuel pump operate, I kept the 12 volt power connected for 2 seconds, and saw fuel pressure at the schrader valve! About 60 psi! Curious, so I connected the battery, turned the key and the engine fired up!! Result! I reconnected the fuel pump module and all other electrical connections I had disconnected, and the engine started and ran normally. I was able to move and drive the car out of the garage!