Theres a message that reads "cruise not available" along with an organge oval light that appears randomly in my speedometer. While the light is on I can not accelerate too quickly or the car goes into a jerking motion. Although the light goes off after slowly reaching a speed of about 40mph and the car drives and accelerates fine once again. Wondering if anyone else has had or knows how to fix this problem?

 

You have an engine fault code. Get it read on a scanner to determine what the code is. The engine is going into limp mode, and the cruise automatically cuts out. You may have a bad o2 sensor, or knock sensor, or who knows. The local auto parts store can read the code for free.

 

What do you mean it goes off after 40? Which goes off? The check engine light or the cruise not available? Mine did the exact same thing, it had a loss of power if i layed into it a little from a stop or slow speed but if i drove it normally it was fine. The cruise not available would go away too. My problem turned out to be the 2 O-rings on the passenger side intake. I believe they are called air valve control. Something like that, but anyway they are only like 10 bucks from the dealer total. Fixed my problem. They get hard and dry rotted and sucks air im assuming.

Check other vacuum hoses prior to that but im pretty confident thats your problem. Whats the year and milage?

 

mwalker, get the codes read on your car (any Advance or Autozone there on the beach will be able to read the code(s) for you. Then post the codes here and we should be able to help you out. The codes should be something along the lines of P1234, where P is an engine (powertrain) code and the 4 numbers afterwards indicate the specific problem. Worst case, I know the Advance on Tidewater drive (Norfolk) will read the codes for you. I've bought a lot of parts through that store.

Worst case, if you don't mind a little bit of a drive, I am a few hours north of you in Maryland and I am willing to take a look at your car. It can be something very simple, it can be something that will be fairly expensive. So, before we just start replacing things on a whim, we need some more info.

 

I have a 2003 X-type, about 64k miles.Alrgiht im going to get the engine read locally first and then post the results. Depending on what the problem is I may take you up on that offer.

 

I had the engine read earlier and the results were P0171 System too lean(Bank1), P0174 System too lean (Bank2), and P1000 manf. control fuel air metering\Auxiliary emission controls

 

open the hood, listen for air leaking out of vacuum lines, it'll be a hiss, do a seach here for vacuum leaks, there a re a few digrams, Dennis Black has a few good threads (search dennisblack as a user) with pictures showing the most common places.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...?t=9395&page=5 for diagrams, last page towards the bottom.

 

nwalker, ah, the infamous P0171 and P0174 codes. 3 places to look:

1) IMT valves (black circles on the side of the intake on the passenger side). These parts tend to leak a lot and the fix is $3 o-rings (requires 2, 1 for each valve). Repair time: 15 minutes

2) vacuum hose running from the top center of the intake to the brake booster. The hard plastic tends to develop cracks, leading to a vacuum leak. New part is like $15 on your local dealership. Repair time: 10 minutes.

3) oil vapor hose. Look next to the throttle body. You will see 2 hoses that run in the direction of the front bumper to the rear bumper. The bigger hose is the one that pulls oil vapor out of the engine and puts it into the air intake. This hose tends to split on the underneath side. If this hose has been replaced, it should be a ribbed hose. if you have a smooth one, look at it closely. The split will be easy to spot once you roll the tube over so you can see the underside. Repair time: 15 minutes.

Those are the 3 big ones when it comes to vacuum leaks. Yours may be elsewhere, but I would say 99% of the time, it is in one of these 3 spots.