Hello and sorry for my many questions but this one is a tough one and even after spending a lot of hours into researches, I couldn’t find the answer.
I had problems with the injectors so I replaced them with a set of four new originals ones. Before replacement, the car could start after spraying deodorant in the air cooling. Now,I am just done changing the injectors with new ones, and the car won’t start at all. It’s coughing a lot, start a little while when adding deodorant but the engine immediately shuts off.
Sole peoples say I have to bleed the air from the fuel lines, but I don’t think this car has escape valves. The last time I checked on the internet, someone said Ford didn’t put them in this particular model. If that is true, am I stuck with the pipes being filled with air? Isn’t there any ways to get pass this problem?

Thank you very kindly!

 

Cermania, atleast with the petrol version, get into the car and turn the key to the RUN position (not to START), let the car set for 5 seconds or so. This will allow the fuel pump time to pressurize the fuel system (for the diesel, atleast the first half). From there, you can attempt to start the car and while it may stumble initially, it will catch after a few seconds.

The only trick to all of this is to not press the gas pedal all the way to the floor. This actually does the opposite of what you would think. Depressing the gas pedal all the way to the floor turns off the fuel injectors. Crank the car and depress the gas pedal slightly. This will cause the injectors to open up more and help allow the air to escape.

Looking in the repair manual, there is no procedure for venting the fuel system. Because of it being a returning system, it will self vent. Now, with this being said, I see 2 potential issues that may be causing what you are seeing:

1) The manual is very stern about keeping things around the fuel system clean. It goes into great lengths about plugging lines to make sure you don't get dirt into the fuel system and even talks about using a vacuum pump to suck fluid backwards through the system to get any particles out. If you don't do this, you run the risk of getting things into your fuel injectors and plugging them up. Not being especially informed on the diesel engines, how you would check the fuel injectors is beyond what I know.
2), along these same lines, there is a venturi (narrowing of the return fuel line) that if you get some dirt/particles into it, that can cause grief with the engine.

One last thing that I doubt would cause that big of an issue, but the manual talked about it was that each of the injectors have a number written on them. This number needs to be programmed into the ECU. Not knowing exactly what that number does, not sure if it is a major concern or not. I would think if that number affected how the injector was flowing, the motor would atleast start and run like hell, but would still be admitting some fuel into the engine.

 

Looks like diesel X's require injector coding with mongoose and SDD when changing them.

https://www.jaguarforum.com/showthread.php?t=70247

Quote in another forum by a member = "My local diesel specialist has spent over 100k on diesel equipment including injector coders but wont touch Jags as he would have had to spend a fortune getting his system updated to be able to code Jags and he just doesnt see enough Jags to justify the expense. So its either dealer or Jag specialist unless you're lucky enough to have a local specialist with the equipment able to code Jags."

The engraved number on the side of the injector must be noted before installing, as this information cannot be interrogated by software or scan tools.

Injector coding
In short, manufacturers have introduced injector coding because they are facing evertightening controls on emissions. Fitting some new injectors means we have to tell the ECU what we have done so that it can make the appropriate calculation to allow the engine to run to its optimum state once the injector is fitted – this is achieved by ‘coding’ them.

 

Thank you for your anwsers. I have just replaced the original ones and still no luck. Even after a torough cleaning of the injectors, the car will not start. If I put a long screwdriver on each of them I can hear the clicking so it probably won't be the injectors themselfs. When adding a lot of deo to the air filter, the engine cranks and starts for as long as deo is in the air filter. This is weird because beforehand the car would start after just a little bit deo. The speedbox gives me error code 'fuel mixture failure' or something like that.
If the problem isn't the air, how can I reprogramme my injectors? I have seen that a lot of mongoose obd cables can be bought on eBay, but which one will fit the car considering I won't be spending hundreds of euros to a car that has cost me less then 1000€? I am starting to believe this car is unfixable...

 

How did you know that the injectors needed to be replaced ?

As the diesel has to fuel tank pump, it cannot self bleed, so it needs vacuum bleeding up the inlet of the fuel pump.

What dtc codes are/ were you getting ?

Also not coding the injectors to the ecu will not stop the engine to start and run.

Paul.

 

Because the previous owner told me that his mechanic told so. He even handed me his garage bill over to prove his honnesty. Now I seriously doubt there is anything wrong with the injectors at all. Probably the fuel filter or the glow sparks have gone bad. Maybe even the fuel pomp. I am checking this all. Could you tell me if this tool can be any useful fro the programmation of my injectors?

https://diagnoseapparatuur.nl/icarso...8aAgMfEALw_wcB

 

Thank you Dell and Thermo for your useful explanation about the coding of the injector, however I don’t think this will be very useful as I managed to turn my car into a locomotive with big clouds of white smoke coming from my exhaust. I must say, I am impressed by the amount of pollution it can generate, this car must be exceeding all environmental norms. No wonder steam locomotive doesn’t exist anymore. The particularly unpleasant burning smell coming from the exhaust combined with the tractor noise the engine delivers let me think I am igniting a time bomb every time I turn the key to the RUN position. This my friends, is the NO-GO of any cars.


However, as much a I know everything I touch tends to break down, I wonder how I could have possibly succeed in converting my car into such a mess. This experience here could be a warning to other owners planning to change their injectors, is it possible that dirt coming to the tubes could have turn my car so bad? Any explanations for this sudden unwanted conversion?

 

No one any clues why this is happening?

 

Not a good sign.

Blowing white smoke is a red flag for your diesel engine,

In many cases, white smoke emanating from the tailpipe (often at idle once the engine reached operating temperature) typically means a worn out injector.

Now this isn’t always the case, White smoke often occurs when there is either too much fuel being injected into the combustion chamber, or not enough heat to burn the fuel. Un-burned fuel travels through the exhaust system & exits out the tailpipe which will produce a scent of rich, un-burnt diesel. Other causes of white smoke include lack of compression, or water/coolant entering the combustion chamber.

With your description of the odor, I lean towards un-burnt fuel. Which is really bad on your Catalytic converter. Raw fuel in the catalytic then heats up and fries the coating, damaging the cat.

BLACK SMOKE

Black smoke indicates excess fuel is being injected into the combustion chamber and/or not enough air is present. This can be caused by worn/leaking injectors or restrictions in the air intake system.

Faulty fuel injectors are also known to cause white smoke. This occurs when the fuel injector does not spray the appropriate amount of fuel into the combustion chamber. This usually makes an engine a lot louder than normal.

 

Thank you Dell. The problem only appears when using starting fuel while cranking. The car doesnt make it to the RUN position, it stops as soon as I stop spraying starting fuel. Otherwise, it deels like the injectors arent working even if i am rplacing them with the new ones. I still have to try to code them to see if that makes any differences.

 

Found it. Here is the link: https://forscan.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=2
the correct order is 1 3 4 2
as labelled on the engine