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Last Friday, I lost my only key/fob set for my 2005 X-type Estate. There is not a locksmith within 200 miles that cuts Tibbe keys and can program the transponder so it looks like I am on my own trying to create a key to be able to start the car. (Our local Ford Steale* can cut Tibbe keys, but refuses to cut me the key for a "Jaguar")
Step 1: I purchased a Tibbe Tool a few years ago, but never used it. I was able to use the tool to "unlock" the drivers door, so I have the key code. (I can get the key cut via mail-order, and am looking into using a Tibbe key adapter to be able to cut the key angles myself on my mill.
Step 2: This is the problem area. I will need to get a hold of the capability to program a transponder (HELP NEEDED) Years ago, I looked into purchasing IDS SDD programming capability, but never followed through.
Step 3: Linking a remote fob to the car. - Straight forward, I know how to do this.
This is where I need assistance. Is anyone up to speed on the details I will need "hardware wise" and software needed to work on a 2005 X-type? (Years ago, I downloaded V130 software, - I just have to find it on an old back-up HD.)
What is the basic functional hardware I will need to plug into the OBD port? (Mongoose? Ford? Laptop? XP version? I don't see much for sale on Fleabay anymore for Jaguar programming.
my recovery from the same situation went through several loops.
In the end my solution involved buying a pair of keys, matching ignition barrel and door lock barrel.
I already had a bundle of Mongoose cable and a VM of Windows XP with SDD installed from a well known online site to do programming.
Used the SDD to tell the ECU to remove all old keys/transponder codes and then then added my two in.
Still need to register the keyfob buttons, that can be done in SDD as well or using the manual steps.
I don't, however, agree with pulling the key out before pressing "any button" on the remote, as I think, the key should be in Pos. 1 still.
Hence, if it does not work as shown, try leaving the key in Pos. 1, then press "any key" on that AND any other remote, and only then remove the key.
And note that in Australia for example, the key-fobs run on 433Mhz, in the US on 315MHz.
I bought my replacement keys from the usual online platforms (e.g. Aliexpress)..
They are normally capable of sending the signals on both frequencies...:Interchangeable frequency instruction:
Hold on the unlock and lock button, during hold on, press 3 times the trunk button, and then let go at the same time. This toggles from one frequency to the other (315MHz / 433MHz).
As for Tijoe's questions:
That is too high level for me. Just: If you to already have the cutting code via your decoder, then yes: You can order the cut key online. I usually remove the blanks from the flip-keys and send them to a capable and cheap locksmith over 1000km away, and I give him the key cutting info via email (including pictures of the key blade I have, so he can double-check). But I normally have 2 OE keys, which means I can (without tools) program the transponders of key 3 and key 4 easily myself.
And now I have a Jag with only 1 key, i.e. I have to do as above, plus send him the one and only transponder capsule for him to close 3 times, too.
And I too have a LOCAL lock-smith, which is 1. not up for the Job and 2. too expensive and 3. too ignorant as the refuse to cut the blank coming from me.
Anyway, after a mail-order-locksmith would cut your blades, you still have the problem with the transponder, and that would normally require a locksmith with an approx. AUD$5000 device and good knowledge of how to operate it. I have one 80km away, he did 2 Jags for me, but I refuses to do any more, because it is always more complicated as anticipated and it takes him close to 1 house, until he figures out, what he did wrong. Last time the issue was, that I have obviously an Australia-spec S-Type, but he failed for ages with his expensive machine, until he finally "told" the machine that it is a US-spec S-Type (which it is not), and then it worked....
I can cut the keys from the code. If you have a good (read: EXPENSIVE) key cutting machine, such as a Blitz, you can get the adapter for Tibbe keys. Probably makes more sense to have me make you new keys.
Programming the FOB is easy to do.
The problem is mating a new transponder chip to your car. This means plugging in the appropriate adapter. Most auto locksmiths can do this for you, or you can get the adapter yourself.
Thanks for the Input. I have been doing a lot of research since I first posted.
- I have ordered a pair or new complete key fob assemblies (arrived already), 10, Tibbe key blanks, 3 more transducers and a Klom Key Code Machine adapter. (On their way.)
- I read in a Ford forum that someone cut their own keys using the Klom adapter mounted in their mill and found it to be straight forward cutting their own keys. I own a mill, so I will try to cut my own keys before I follow the mail order approach. (Thanks Sone for your offer. If I fail at cutting my own key/s I will have you cut them) My motivation to be able to cut Tibbe keys is that I have 3 other S-type Rs that only have one key fob assembly per car.
- The Tibbe 6 tumbler key section is 12mm long, with 2mm allocated per tumbler. The Klom adapter will allow me to rotate the key to each of the proper face angles.
I think it is time I go ahead and purchase complete IDS SDD programming and diagnostic capabilities. My Favorite STR has not been running for 2 years because it's instrument cluster lost it programming and PATS confirmation to the ECM/BCM, so it wont start. If I purchase an IDS SDD system, I will finally force myself to learn how to use the S/W to get the STR running. Now I have a second motivation to get programming capability, so I can get the immobilize to talk to the X-type.
If all of this goes well, I will have the capability to add additional keys/fobs for my S-types.
I'll up date this thread as I learn and make progress.
My first cut key works! My Klom Tibbe key fixture arrived today. I set up the fixture in the mill vice. Most of my time spent was creating a conversion chart that converted metric numbers to English so I could use my digital table position Indicator. - About 20 minutes in planning how to cut the key, 15 minutes setup on the mill, 15 minutes to cut both sides of the key. Easy-peasy - very simple mill job.
- Next step: I will confirm the key code from my Tibbe pick that I wrote down for my lost key, and then cut a test key to be sure it works. If it works, I will cut the 2 keys on my new fobs.
KLOM fixture First cut First side cut Second side cut Working test key
My first cut key works! My Klom Tibbe key fixture arrived today. I set up the fixture in the mill vice. Most of my time spent was creating a conversion chart that converted metric numbers to English so I could use my digital table position Indicator. - About 20 minutes in planning how to cut the key, 15 minutes setup on the mill, 15 minutes to cut both sides of the key. Easy-peasy - very simple mill job.
- Next step: I will confirm the key code from my Tibbe pick that I wrote down for my lost key, and then cut a test key to be sure it works. If it works, I will cut the 2 keys on my new fobs.
Edit: I cut a test key for my missing keys on my X-type: Perfect fit and it opens the door and turns on the ignition. Tomorrow, I will cut the 2 keys on my replacement key fob assemblies.
(Now that I have the cutting process down, second key took less than 10 minutes to cut and wire brush clean.)
KLOM fixture First cut First side cut Second side cut Working test key