Recently the Jag started to buck and thrash, and go into limp mode with the cel flashing away. I pulled up the following codes: p0300B, p0302, p0304B, p0306, p0352, p0354, p0356, p1314, p1316, and, p1316. I believe all the codes are related to one side of the engine, but which side? Also I am not sure ( I don't know ) where #1 is located. If anyone can give me a clue as to what the problem/solution is I would be appreciative.
Thanks

 

Butch, a majority of the codes are associated with the #2 bank. This would lead me to believe that if you look at a wiring bundle next to your brake booster, you may find that it has been damaged and that is leading to what you are seeing.

The P030X codes are misfires on the associated cylinder (ie, P0302 is for cylinder 2, P0300 is just a random misfire warning). Like the P035X codes are saying you have an issue with the coil for the associated cylinder (ie, P0352 is a problem with the #2 cylinder coil). The P1314 and P1316 are saying that you are having enough misfires that you can be potentially damaging the catalytic converter.

All these problems point to a cable issue in the neighborhood of the brake booster. Follow the cable from near the throttle body back to where it gets near the first cylinder on the driver's side of the engine. Odds are, your problem will be withing that 3 feet of wiring. If you see copper, that would be the source of your problem most likely. Be on the lookout for any animal droppings too. You wouldn't be the first to have issues with critters crewing up your electrical. They love the little pocket there by the brake booster.

 

Well, sir I chased the wires back to where the other banks coil leads are, and found no breaks. I then hooked a volt meter to the R/W terminal on what I assume is the #6 coil connector, and the battery ground. When I tugged, and wiggled the wires, the voltage remained constant at just below twelve. An ohm meter hooked between the B terminal and ground stayed at, or near continuity. I removed all the sparkplugs, and the gaps were between .075 and .080 on both banks. The misfire problem was sporadic at first, and I was able to drive the car, now it is pretty consistent. Where do I go now? I certainly appreciate your taking time to respond to my post.
Thanks

 

My reading of the workshop manual indicates a spark plug gap of 0.051"-0.057"

 

I should have stated in my post, that I was supplying the gap measured as a question of that being the cause of the misfires, and related codes, my bad. I do however, thank you for your response.
Thanks

 

Butch, with gaps that big, it may very well be the source of your misfires. I would try putting in the correct gap plugs and then seeing what you have. It is not uncommon that if you just got the car that the previous owner didn't want to go through the hassle of pulling the intake off and replacing the back 3 plugs. So, they could possibly be originals from when the car was built.

 

I thank you guys for taking the time to help me sort out this, seemingly, big mess. I replaced the plugs, and put new coils on those under the plenum. The coils from there, I moved to the front, as they appeared to be working. I'll tell you this, unwrapping the wires to look for problems, was nasty, and rewrapping and securing them wasn't much fun either. We took a little ride of about fifty miles, and all seems ok. Once again, my thanks to you for your help. I will, if there is a next time, be sure to check the easier stuff first.
Thanks.

 

After resolving the misfiring issue, I'm back to the evap system codes. I have just about all of them, from fuel cap missing to a tiny leak detected. I have had the fuel tank out, and it held pressure, so I'm wondering where to go next. I thought I read somewhere that this might be a programming problem, so I am investigating scan tools that might let me see into the Jaguar PCM and other modules. What I'm looking into is the AUTEL MaxiDAS DS708. Does anyone have any experience with tool? I'd like to know if it can access things like the ABS solenoids in some GM vehicles (and probably others), and also any issues of reliability.
Thanks

 

butch, I feel your pain. Before you go ripping apart a lot of stuff, try this first. If you look there is a vacuum line that comes off of the intake manifold and runs to a solenoid valve to the center of the car from the brake booster. Remove that solenoid and spray some carb cleaner inside and then put things back together. The solenoid is just press fitted into a rubber block via a metal bracket. See what you have then. I fought an evap code for ever and checked everything under the sun. I finally cleaned the purge solenoid (that solenoid I was talking about) and that solved the problem for me.