Car: 2004 X type- 3.0
I was driving on the highway and at 55 mph the engine just stopped. The battery and oil light came on. It was still rolling. but the Steering and brakes were really hard. I had to try really hard to get out of the road on the shoulders without hitting anyone or anything. Luckily i was able to. After car came to full stop, I tried ignition again,,,it was making cranking sound as usual but engine wasn't starting. all the light and everything in the car was working so it wasn't the battery and plus the battery is only 8 months old. after trying for 10-15 minutes I gave up and left the car there on the highway and called a cab and went back home. Next morning I went there to get it towed to a mechanic but I put the keys in and tried starting the car and it started as usual without any issue. So I decided to drive it and there was no issue at all. I made it to home around 8 miles from that spot. I turned the car on next day and it started again. I am not sure what happened. I am afraid to take it out too far from the house.
some facts: I haven't had any issue with the car for awhile.
Last 6 months I have been only driving 6-8 miles a day. and for last month and a half I have been driving only 20 miles a week.
This time my trip was around 50 miles and it stopped around 42 miles from my origin and 8 miles from the destination. It was cold night.

Please help me figure out what could be the problem if you have come across car problem like this and what did you find out.

Thank you again in advance.

 

Jack,

I have the same vehicle model, year, etc. While I've never had your issue, I feel for you.

Intermittent anything is the worst. If it's just dead, that's one thing. Fixing dead is easier than intermittent.

I'm sure you'll get a lot of info on this site and will be following the thread. Some pretty smart guys here.

Dave

 

How many miles are on this car? Sounds to me like your fuel pump may be dying.

 

Same thing came to my mind. I'd replace the fuel pump without a second thought.

 

If it's running OK now, it sure sounds like an intermittent fuel or fuel delivery problem. You said it was a cold night when it happened - maybe there was some condensation in the fuel lines? You could try a bottle of drygas next time you fill up. You could also change the fuel filter if that's never been done. Hopefully you can sort it out without having to change the fuel pump!

 

Jackbrown: Prepare for the next time. IF it quits again turn off all accessories,turn off and on the ignition and listen for the fuel pump to cycle, if you cant hear it you know what it is. IF you can hear it and it still won't fire up carry a can of starting fluid and inject it into the intake through a vacuum hose or intake tube then quickly try and start it. If it FIRES at all there is a blockage in the fuel system. OR the computer isn't activating the injectors because your bypassing everything except the coils on the plugs and the plugs.If it still doesn't fire the coil packs to the plugs aren't being activated and you'll at least know what to look for or tell the service person.

 

I'd test the battery as low miles per day is a killer. Once warmed up an driving as you were the battery is relied on for the peak pulses to the coils.

If you're 100% after testing that it's fully charged (about 12.6V), next check fuel trims. A perished hose that opened up with a bit of unexpected air can cut an engine out.

I'm doubtful it's the fuel pump. More likely the filter if not the above.

I think you'll have a jag-specific code with what the system was like when it cut out but probably don't have a tool that will decode it.

 

jack: I'll wager $10 your fuel pump is unreliable after 80+K miles. Your symptoms are similar to what I experienced in a 2002 2.5L at ~100K miles: the fuel pump was always reliable on short trips, but quit without warning ~30 miles into my ~40 mile commute. At first it quit every other month, then once a month, then once a week until I replaced the pump. No error codes or warnings when it quit, other than what you describe: oil light, engine light, and the unnerving loss of power assist to steering or brakes. After 'resting' on the roadside for 15-45 minutes, the fuel pump always restarted and I continued the trip as if nothing was wrong.

The fuel pump is not cheap or easy to replace, so you want to be certain it's the problem before replacing it. Try this:

1) Replace the fuel filter, assuming it's old. It won't fix a glitch fuel pump, but it's cheap, easy and can't hurt. My old filter was full of muddy silt, and replacing it extended the life of the failing fuel pump ~6-12 months

2) Raise the lower cushion of the rear seat: pull up hard on both front corners. No need to remove the cushion, simply raise the front edge

3) Under the cushion you'll find a ~5 inch black rubber disk with wires thru the center. Move the disk and you'll see the top of the black plastic fuel tank. Leave the wires connected - they supply power to the fuel pump and 2 level sensors in the tank.

4) Sit in the driver's seat, reach behind with one hand, placing it on the plastic fuel tank.

5) With you other hand, turn the ignition key to Run / Position II, not Start / Position III, just Run. Your hand on the fuel tank should feel the soft vibration of the fuel pump running for ~10 seconds, before it turns off. Do this a few times: turn the ignition key off, then to Run, and each time you should feel fuel pump energize inside the fuel tank for ~10 seconds, before it stop. This is how the fuel lines and fuel rail are pressurized before the engine starts.

6) If you're adventuresome, drive the car until the engine stalls again, then repeat this test. If there is no vibration from inside fuel tank when you turn the key to Run, this confirms the fuel pump is quit running. Try again in 15, 30, 45, 60 minutes and you will (hopefully) be presently surprised / relieved when the fuel pump restarts and you again feel soft vibrations from inside the fuel tank.

7) If this occurs, it's time for a new fuel pump. We can talk you thru the options: (a) replace just the pump, or the combined pump & canister, (b) drop the fuel tank, or cut a hole under the rear seat to access the pump without dropping the tank.

 

What are the symptoms occurred before the car stop? no one can tell what wrong if you don't give more details.

 

This looks familiar!

 

This was an old Post.
I do want to thank everyone for their suggestions.

BTW Update: It was/is fuel pump issue (That is what I was told my the Mechanic). My car only stopped once after the first incident. And 2nd time, it started right away in 10 seconds. The mechanic I took my car told me to stop by if does it again and he will replace the fuel pump. But luckily It hasn't happened again since then. (it has been 6 months now) I don't drive much. I use public transportation to and from work. So I only need car to go to Metro Station which is only 2 miles from my house.

 

I know you do not drive much and maybe have some other options available to you, but you DO realize that the next time it fails it will be at the most inopportune time at the most inopportune place, don't you? That's just the way things seem to work out. This is a situation of not if it will finally go, but when. You might want to consider getting it fixed sooner when it is convenient for you as opposed to when the fuel pump is ready. I'm just sayin'..............

 

The pattern is pointing away from the fuel pump. Sounds more like an electrical issue.

 

I currently have the same problem. It stopped once three years ago and was fine until last summer, did it in a restaurant parking lot. Then a week or so again it did it again going 50 miles an hour down a long straight, I was lucky.

If this where to happen when scooting across an intersection it could be disastrous. I ordered an OEM pump for $285.00 and I'm going to replace it this week. I will not drive the car until it's repaired.

 

Keep in mind that the fastest way to kill your fuel pump is to run the car low on fuel; the pump depends on the gasoline to wick away the heat. Anything below ¼ tank, part of the pump is exposed. Air is a very poor heat sink, compared to the gasoline.

 

This is absolutely true and is precisely what I was told by the service manager at my Jag dealer - and further, he said that pump failures almost always occurred on the x-type after incidents of running out of fuel.
Few people realize that the fuel cools the pump and that repeatedly running the tank low exposes the pump to this risk. Running out of fuel will virtually guarantee a future pump problem; if possible, fill the tank when it gets to the 1/4 mark.

 

I agree with the low fuel comments but I will say my tank has had less than 3/4 full a handful of times at most and it still failed.

 

To check the leak you have to remove all the engine cover, run the engine up to operate temp, jack up or drive the car on ramp, get the flash light, craw up and down to look for the leak while engine is running, it's a hot job but that only way to find the leak. If you do this after few times and still not find the leak but coolant still lost that is bad news: It's might be internal leak, head gasket was broke, coolant leake inside engine, this is major problem: Replace the head gasket