Are all premium speakers compatible with all models?

I'm thinking of up grading to the premium sound system.

I have a 2006 model.

There is a set of speakers for sale - part number Jaguar part number C2S4245.

But it seems the part number later changed to C2S20400.

Any ideas if these will fit my car?

While im on. is it essential to fit the jaguar amp or can i stick in any other amp? The wiring of these seems very tricky to get hold of or even reproduce. (for someone with my electrical ability despite cambo's excellent write up here https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ade-faq-64614/)

Is there an easier way? Can I just put a crossover in front of the rear speakers and just wire from there into the sub shelf? Or do I definitely need an amp? I don't need loads of volume. Just want to improve the quality of sound.



Thanks,

Ian
C2S20400
C2S20400
C2S20400

 

Jonesy, the premium speakers are really just two speakers working off of the same channel of the radio. So, you can wire them up to work off of a non-premium radio. The big question that I have is whether the non-premium radio can handle the speakers wired that way.

As for the subs in the rear shelf, that unfortunately requires the addition of stuff (ie, amp, wiring, etc) to make that work. So, what you have read here, you have to do it unless you are going custom, then well, you are looking at a lot of other stuff.

Getting back to the main speakers, the premium system is simply using the natural characteristics of the speakers (ie, a small speaker can not reproduce bass as a large speaker can not reproduce the highs) and just letting the speaker itself control what frequencies it is making. It is better to have even a passive crossover to control what sounds go to what speaker as this will allow the speakers to not be affected by the signals they can not reproduce.

If you have more questions, let me know.

 

Thanks Thermo.

Another option. If I get an after market stereo. I'm thinking a pionneer app radio jobby. that should be able to power the premium speakers and then perhaps have a secondary output to an aftermarket amp to power the sub speakers in the shelf.

Is that a possibility?

Cheers,

 

Jonesy, do you have the NAV system in your car now or just the basic radio with the separate A/C-heat controls. If you have the A/C-heat controls built into the radio, then you are somewhat stuck with the radio unless you do a major reworking of the A/C-heat controls back to the manual system. If you have the manual heat controls, then you are golden and you can do just about anything you want.

 

I have the separate controls.

Thanks thermo.

 

While I'm on.

What is the RMS wattage of the premium speakers and also the standard speakers?

Anyone know?

 

jonesy, I do not know if Jag ever released just bare bones information about the system. I seem to remember that the standard system was a "300 watt" system. So, that would mean that the main speakers are each getting 75 watts peak, or around 35 watts RMS. The premium system is using the same amplifier section as I recall and it is simply splitting the signal going to 2 speakers vice one, so, the overall power is the same. The difference is now you need to add some more power for the subwoofers which should be in the neighborhood of 250 to 300 watts peak (for a total of 550 to 600 watts).

Hope this gets you fairly close. If you look on the back of the factory speakers, they should have a number followed by a "W". that would be the peak power rating of the speaker which will be fairly close to what the radio is putting out.

 

Ok. I've got the Jaguar alpine tweeters. I'm thinking of getting four Alpine SXE 1725S (40WRMS) to replace the standard speakers. I'm then thinking of a non factory 2 channel amp. If I split off the rear speakers left and right and bring 2 chanels into an amp, I should then be able to add two subwoofers (1 of each channel) to the parcel shelf. Does that make sense?

 

Jonesy, that should work. Just make sure that you run the speaker inputs to the "Line-in" terminals, not the RCA inputs. You wire them up to the RCA inputs and you are going to trash that amp the first time you turn it on. If you need any assistance, let me know.

On a side note, I seem to recall that there is a fairly heavy gauge wire back in driver's side rear corner of the car. Can possibly use that to power the amp instead of having to run a new wire all the way from the front of the car.

 

Wow that'll save a lot of mucking about. I take it that is drivers side US. IS that the OEM sound system amp power or is it for something else. Just wondering what fuse it's relayed to.

Thanks,

 

Jonesy, yes, that is US driver's side. It is tucked back in the corner next to the CD changer/Nav drive, etc. I seem to recall it is meant for the stereo system.

 

Ah. I don't have the sat nav wiring. I do have a sub speaker box with the mini amp in it but I think this is from an older model. I have a 2006 model so not sure if they are compatible any how.

1. Can I wire that from the dash without connectors?

2. Or is there a way to rewire the box direct from the car battery and the speakers.

3. I was considering my original wiring plan and removing the mini amp from the box and placing an aftermarket one in the trunk.

4. What do you think?

5. Do you know the watts of the mini amp?

 

Jonesy,

I have done the retrofit of a 2003 under shelf "boombox" in a 2007 X-Type.

Works fine. Expect full sound but not window shaking power.

Go to Jagrepair.com for the 2001.5 standard and premium wiring diagrams in section 15. See the 2006 diagram for comparison. The 2003 standard system will look like your system in the 2006. The premium is essentially an addition of the "boombox" to the standard.
OEM splices are made in the vicinity of the center door post and forward. Speaker wires are easily recognized. They are twisted pairs at the blue 16 pin plug/pair adjacent to the fuse panel. For simplicity, you could make subwoofer splices at that location. The early and late models use the same twisted pairs and (CA230) blue plug/pair.

Amp power + is Brown w/red wire fed from fuse #74 on the 2003.
The power is supplied from fuse #20 on the 2006. Pin #20 on CA208 (plug on back of fuse panel) is served by Fuse #20. Change the fuse from 30A to 15A.

Amp power - is black to ground. OEM makes the connection at the rear of the trunk but any substantial connection point should work.

The white wire goes to pin #2 on the blue 16 way plug/pair for 2003. That position is taken by another wire on the 2006.
The white wire ultimately connects to pin #12 of the audio unit on both 2003/2006. The purpose is to enable the amplifier when the audio unit is powered on. You could pick up any circuit energized in ignition position II.
I'm using a position II circuit until I pull the audio unit next weekend.

Note that the "boombox" has one "woofer" and a vent port, not two speakers.

As stated earlier, the sound is full, quality but not overly powerful.

Keep us posted on how you proceed.

best regards,
Bill

 

Bill,

Thanks that's a great help. Is this the diagram I need?

 

Jonesy,
Yes, that's the "donor car" diagram. You may use the "premium audio" and other diagrams for your car to "correct" the donor car diagram as described above.

Let us know how your project turns out.

best regards,

Bill

 

Bill,

Will do.

I'm having to get creative to mount the new speakers.

Do you have any photos of your parcel shelf set up. Particularly the wiring at the critical points. that would be great as I'm no sparky.

Can I use any of these leads to power the sub and then bring in the left right channels from the rear speakers?

Or am I better off coming off from the A Pillar?

Cheers,

Jonesy

 

Jonsey,

I'll be working on the car in the next couple of days and will post photos.

The speaker box mounts under the shelf using six screws and fender clip/nuts. You slip the clip/nut through the square holes to align the hole & nut to accept the screws.
Photos will help make sense of it.
Do you have a plug to mate with the socket on top of the speaker box? You'll need the plug with pins, wire and other misc hardware. If you have access to the donor car that is the best place to find what you will need.

 

Bill,

Any joy with the wiring pics?

 

you can use brown cable from 3 pin socket, it's 30A power for trailer same one as needed for amp. (alpine premium sound)
also you can use orange cable from 3 pin socked that is there for cd changer. this one is required to boot DB2 fiberwire signal.
the rest is just to prepare special harness with male and female 16 pin blue connector as written in on schemes below
http://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1...202004%205.pdf
hope it helps.
I have almost all for my retrofit except of few missings pins for my blue connectors.

 

Gents It's been a year since I almost completed my project but all I'm missing is fiberwire that is not activated in my car. is there any simple way to do it or I need to find someone with special equipment and software. Perhaps there is a button sequence that can do it?
please help folks