"slack" handbrake after pad change
#1
"slack" handbrake after pad change
hi guys and girls
Today before it rained I changed the front brake discs and pads + the rear pads.
The pedal is now solid great!! BUT the handbrake has gone from being very tight on 4 clock to having to be pulled to 7/8 clicks. it feels worse then before!!!
am I being thick is there a way of adjustment?
Today before it rained I changed the front brake discs and pads + the rear pads.
The pedal is now solid great!! BUT the handbrake has gone from being very tight on 4 clock to having to be pulled to 7/8 clicks. it feels worse then before!!!
am I being thick is there a way of adjustment?
#2
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Great Mills, MD
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donnie, you need to repeatedly pull and release the handle till it makes up the slack. THe other thing that you will want to check is that the e-brake levers are moving full forward when you release the e-brake lever. If the e-brake lever sticks at the caliper, it can cause a slack feeling in the hand brake too. If you need me to explain anything in more detail, let me know.
#3
#4
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Donnie, the alignment of the piston is only so the piston locks into position on the brake pad. Granted, not all pads have the locking tabs. So, in the big scheme of things, it is not a problem. PUll the handle some more and it should push the piston to where it needs to be. If you don't have a lot of pedal travel, then your piston is not too far from where it needs to be. If pulling the handle doesn't fix things, then you are looking at a stuck e-brake lever.
#5
Donnie, the alignment of the piston is only so the piston locks into position on the brake pad. Granted, not all pads have the locking tabs. So, in the big scheme of things, it is not a problem. PUll the handle some more and it should push the piston to where it needs to be. If you don't have a lot of pedal travel, then your piston is not too far from where it needs to be. If pulling the handle doesn't fix things, then you are looking at a stuck e-brake lever.
#6
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#7
hi , had the same problem i took of the handbrake cable off the caliper and sprayed the mechanism with wd40 then with a pair of mole grips i moved the mech back and forward many times and continually spraying the mech as i go , after a short time it comes back to life with a strong recoil once you have it to this stage attach the cable again and then cover the mech with copper slip and that's it your good
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#9
handbrake
yes take the wheel off and u will c the handbrake cable just sticking out the end of the mech , get a pair of pliers and pull the cable outwards it will come easy push it to the side or under the mech just so its out the road a bit and then start to move the mech back and forth till you fell the spring is strong again but mind and keep spraying the wd40 , once ur done its a bit hard to get the cable on as u now have a strong mech so get a pair of grips and pull the mech together and push the cable back into place , take the car a small run and you handbrake will b strong again . mind and check both sides of the car regards danny if u get stuck email me
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