are the brake slider and carrier bolts torqued to yield? if not then we could just loctite them right? Protects them from seizing and corrosion at the same time.

I just read vibration test result paper on screw fasteners and it looks like thread locking compound is the best if heat is not a limiting factor otherwise friction screw threads come second. And mechanical locks come third.

Safety wire anyone?

 

I don't know the factory answer, but I've never torqued the slider bolts on any of my cars. I just snug them. I do torque carrier bolts, but don't always use Loctite. Given your location and age of these cars, I'd replace said fasteners if I didn't like the looks of them. Side note - while flying F-111s at RAF Lakenheath 1977-80 we used Tain Range on western side plenty. Spent a lot of time flinging my body at the target barge there. A few hits, lots of splashes.

 

Rogelio, the bolts on the brakes are not torque to yield. So, they can be used over and over with no negative effects short of someone going bonkers when tightening them down.

As for a thread locker, I would highly advise against that. The reason why I say that is you will never get the pads apart again without some serious work if you want something that is going to lock with the application of the brakes. Lets first start with the fact that thread locker comes in 2 general flavors, low temp and high temp. The low temp stuff simply adds some resistance at room temperature and makes it more difficult to get things apart. The problem being that if you add any temperature (ie, applying brakes), the locking material turns liquid again and provides no resistive force. The high temp stuff will keep things locked almost too well. So, unless you are heating it up to say 500F to again turn the locker material liquid again, you are going to fight like hell to get things torn back apart.

I cannot recall a time when the bolts have backed themselves out on one of my vehicles after they have been properly tightened. While I don't torque my bolts down, I make sure to tighten them and make sure that I give them a fair amount of tighteness. Do not take them to spot torque (ie, turn the wrench in the tighten direction so hard that you have to close your eyes and you start to see spots). BUt, also, don't just take them till you start to feel a little bit of resistance. I take the bolts to the point that they become very stiff to turn then I hold the end with the socket to provide counter torque as I give the other end of the wrench a good tap or two with my hand. Leaves things plenty tight without getting too tight.

 

The carrier bolts were in such a tight place, if you used locking compound, you'll have busted your nuckles or rounded the bolt head, not use the compound but even use some anti seized grease on the tread, tight the bolts until it not turn then give it strong tap with a hammer, that's all you need, no need to torque it, I never see one come loose.

 

Experience has taught me that you no not want any anti-seize compound (or grease, or anything else) anywhere near a disc brake.

I had a caliper that was hanging up and dragging ever so little on my classic heavy Lincoln Mark V, so I wiped the carrier bolts with a very tiny bit of anti-seize.

That tiny little bit liquefied when the caliper dragged again 5 miles out of town, hit the pads, and started one helluva FIRE. From the amount of smoke and flame, you would have thought that 1/8th a teaspoon or less of anti-seize was a full gallon of gasoline burning with a large fan feeding it, and I nearly lost the car.

(the local farmer that saw me putting it out said "I had no idea you could move that fast!")

Lessons learned the hard way:

1. Use NO GREASE, NO ANTI-SEIZE on any brake part. ever. ever ever ever;
2. Keep your fire extinguisher right next to you, in the hollow next to the seat and bottom door frame, not in the trunk.

Simply wire-brush up all the parts, and then assemble them per Thermo's (best) instructions above. I also concur with his observation, as I too have never seen a caliper guide bolt back out.

The heat & cool cycles seem to almost weld them in is more the case, methinks.

 

Or if it worries you buy the bolts - mine came pre-loaded with an appropriate compound (which also does not catch fire!).

 

It never happen to me, I never had a drag caliper, I put just a tiny bit on the tread hole when you turn the bolt in it will push all that tiny bit of compound stays inside the hole, you must have put the compound all along the bolts, when you turned the bolts in the excess compound stay outside and drips on all over the brake when it hot, that's happen when you don't know how to used the stuff.

 

Brake grease is used all the time for caliper pins and brake pad contact points.
It is silicon based high temp lube.

bob

 

I agreed with motorcarman