2004 Jaguar x-type 3lt sedan

Looking for a used or new right rear Trailing arm.
A one point someone put the hoist foot in too far and caught my arm, bending it towards the wheel. Unable to line up my vehicle. Hard on tires.

Can anyone help me find one of these

thanks

 

Are you looking for one of these?

 

The jack point needs to be as far forward and outboard as possible to avoid bending the arm. I have had luck 're-bending' the trailing arm but sometimes it is too damaged to re-use.

Salvage yards might be the most cost effective solution to your problem.

Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

bob

 

Trailing arms are the ones run from the side in front of the rear wheels to the rear connected to rear suspension component; either go to auto parts online for new one,, or eBay for the used one. You can get one real cheap at the junkyard that let you pull it out yourself, but that is a very hard work if the car sat in the yard too long and all the bolts are so rusty plus the lock tite that they put in the nuts at assembly line.

 

False economy to chase a used one, as the rubber bushing is going to be shot. Add to that the fight of your life trying to back out the bolts. Rock Auto sells these forward lower control arms for about $23 each; same part fits both sides.

 

Doesn't look like that. The piece looks like it is flat and about 5 or 6 inches wide.
thanks for the reply Swingwing.

 

Yes mine got bent the same way. It is very EZ to bend back into place with a long pipe. Then I used a BIG crescent wench to do the fine tuning.

 

Yes, trailers ng arm is flat in the front, it's cupping in the rear with all the suspension components bolt onto it. The one in the picture is the lower control arm. Yes, if it's just slightly bend, you can straighten it out, or you find lots of them on eBay. To remove the arm, you need a gas torch to melt or burn the locktite on the bolts and nuts.

 

Thanks for the info. Mine has a bend in it. Will this throw off the rear wheel alignment? My tires are wearing bad on the inside. thanks again

 

Your part number is C2S24713. I'd replace the bent piece rather than try to straighten it. You'll find adding new fasteners makes for cleaner reassembly: 1 C2S30523, 1 C2S45980, 2 C2S42348, 1 C2S45979.

 

Swingwing

You sent me a picture before. (It is the flat piece with cables running through it)
This is the picture of the control arm. The part I am asking about is a about 4 or 5 inches wide and runs from front of the rear wheel and is flat. Looks like the hoist may have caught it and put an outward bend in it.

Will this bend affect the wheel alignment? My tires are wearing out on the inside

(x-type-x400-14/139642d1480617399-trailing-arm-r-lower-fwd-arms.jpg----- this is the picture you previously sent to me

 

Think I have it now - the name you gave it threw me off. I think the part you mean is the RH rear hub carrier, p/n C2S49745. Pricey from Jaguar; you might look at Ebay or a breaker yard. Where is Quispamsis by the way? Australia?

 

That is exactly the part that is bent in from the bottom towards the wheel.

Quispamsis is in New Brunswick, Canada on the east coast.
That was the name the mechanic gave me.
Would that throw off my alignment on the rear to cause inside tire wear?

Thanks for the help and replies.

 

There are no alignment adjustments on the rear hub carrier that I'm aware of. Camber adjustment is done on the control arm. I don't know enough about suspension set-up to answer your question, but for me if the arm of hub carrier is bent the part is toast and needs to be replaced. Keep in mind that there's other players here - on my car the rubber bushings of the lower forward control arms were shot, resulting in a "junk in the trunk" sound when going over a bump. Bought inexpensive Dorman replacements that solved that, and I added new Bilsteins all the way 'round. Car rides and handles superbly. Given where you live I'd say corrosion is going to be an issue when you dismantle; you'll need plenty of leverage, and applying torch heat where you can will help. New fasteners for the rebuild is the way to go in my book; there's little added cost to do this.

 

Thanks Swingwing for your help.