very long crank; intermittant. no codes.

engine is 2.5 2003 xtyper

no start is crank pos sen. im assuming long crank is dual cam pos sensors?



started happening about a month ago, progressed to once a week...

 

brisbon, first off, have a load test done on your battery and see how that is holding out. A slower crank will result in a longer crank and the slower crank is normally associated with a battery starting to go.

Now, the other possibility is that you have a battery cable starting to go, resulting in a voltage drop inside one of the cables, leading to less voltage at the starter which causes the starter to roll slower. You can prove the battery cables good by putting a multimeter between say the negative battery post (not the terminal, but the lead post of the battery itself and the chassis. THen as you crank the engine, the multimeter should stay under 1.000 VDC. If it goes over, that cable is bad. The same can be done with the positive battery post and the battery terminal of the starter.

 

Thankyou for the input Sir. But my cranking speed is more than sufficent, I own a diesel repair shop and have checked the basics but the car you own is always the last to be fixed.


I believe it is ignition signal or fuel related, I'm looking to see if anyone has had a similar issue before I replace my cam sensors. Any info/advise is well taken.

 

brisbon, if the cranking speed is fine, then something I would try is to get into the car, turn the key to the RUN position and then let it sit for about 5 seconds and then see if the car will start every time. If it does, then your problem is the fuel pump is starting to go. By leaving the key in the RUN position for a few seconds prior to rolling the engine, you are making sure that you have sufficient pressure in the fuel rail.

I would also check the cam sensors before replacing them. If you need any help in checking them, let me know. It is easy to do.

 

I have been noticing that it makes a difference and I suspected that but you've just confirmed it. How do the prices and type or fuel pump repair compare to regular cars/trucks, any funny tricks vendors?

 

>How do the prices and type or fuel pump repair compare

I believe that someone else said that the fuel pump is in the gas tank and that it was a pain to remove (i.e., no direct access with the tank in place).
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Jaguar: Grace, Pace, and Space - Sir William Lyons

 

Thankyou. Days like this in grateful I own a lift. I hate gas fueltank jobs

 

Brisbon, doing a fuel pump change out is like pab said. You have to drop the fuel tank to get at the pump. Unfortunately, to get the tank down, you have to drop the rear driveshaft. Not a hard step ,but not something that someone at home would have an easy time doing. But, with having access to a lift, shouldn't be all that hard. I would also recommend running the tank down to under 1/8th of a tank to make moving the tank around that much easier. Go as low as you dare and then remove the tank. Having access to something like a tranny jack will be helpful too as you can take a piece of plywood and use that to provide support for holding the gas tank in place as you loosen/install the bolts holding the tank in place.

 

Ooo, ya, forgot about the drive shaft. Damn rear-wheel-drive car...
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Jaguar: Grace, Pace, and Space - Sir William Lyons

 

Hello,
My mechanic recommended to replace camshaft and crankshaft position sensors. How do you check if they are malfunctioning? The problem is intermittent. The MAF, sparkplugs, coil, fuel injectors, fuel pump, fuel filter are checked.
2004 Vanden Plas 105K.
Thank you.
Belawidi

 

How many miles on this car? When's last time fuel filter was changed? Inexpensive part and simple to change - especially since you've got a lift. I'd do that, then check fuel pressure. Doing that before I'd even think about a fuel pump change. If car's been neglected for a while then changing spark plugs, air filter and a bottle or two of injector cleaner should help.