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There was once a post on cutting through the sheet metal under the rear seat and removing the fuel pumps from the top of the tank w/o dropping or lowering the tank itself> It had measurements and details.
Wondering why quick replies keep going poof. Either timing out or my fingers are hitting a self-destruct key combination.
A surgeon I’m not. However, had to use hemostats to slip the disk in place. The original disk was .020” thick. Could only find 1/32” thick material (~ .030”). Located .5mm material in the UK on Ebay. .5mm is ~ .020”. Took a couple weeks to arrive. Replaced the 1/32” disk.
Expecting a replacement fuel pump to be shipped on Tues/Wed from Ft. Myers Jag. First pump assy had a problem: float arm was getting stuck in the middle of its travel. Could of fixed it; but opted for another pump assy.
Moving ahead with the second pump mod. Hard part was figuring out how to draw fuel from over the hump. Think I have it. Has been a good experience. Learned a few things.
Fuel pump speed is controlled by a PWM- pulse width modulator. Pulse width is varied, as required, to maintain proper pressure. It’s relatively simple. If you want to know more, check this link: https://www.nzefi.com/product/fuel-p...ed-controller/
Unlike the olde daze, need more than a simple pressure gauge or voltmeter to troubleshoot a fuel pump. Having a multichannel o’scope is essential with all that’s going on. Guess you also have to know how to use it or know someone who wears thick glasses & a pocket protector.
Thanks for the info. At the moment with the tank out could easily cut holes for access to the pump & sending unit- but to me that is like scratching fingernails on a black board. Didn’t realize the title of this thread until Bruce commented. Gomenasai.
Kinda glad though I dropped the tank. Y? The plastic lock rings used on this model are no where as near as tough as the nylon rings used on the S-Type which I was easily able to remove using a large screwdriver & a hammer.
On mine- even out of the car, had to cut em with a Dremel. Tried every tool made & succeeded only in breaking off tabs. Would need a tool that fit over every tab like a socket. Could of made one, but had an easier idea...
Mr. Dremel made it easy. New rings were like $9 something a piece from Ft Myers Jag online. On this model, there are locking fingers that hold the ring in place. The only thing the white frangible plastic rings did was make me start speaking another language (expletives deleted).
This is the cover over the fuel pump. R.I.P. They had a white 2003 that I liked. Unfortunately someone needed something major & afterwards the car was crushed. (heavy
Am able to cut out the underside area of the rear seat with the plastic access covers & add them to my car- just seems like the right thing to do. Maybe if the color black...
Believe I found an easier way (for me) by replacing the sending unit only assy with another fuel pump assy instead of doing a Jesse James mod which BTW I think would be cool if I was a bit younger. If I had the car in a bigger garage, might of just tried the S-Type fuel tank access port ‘transplant’. But dem daze are over.
Figure 2 pumps should outlive the car & never need to drop the tank again. Hopefully will never need to use the second pump- but maybe on occasion. Still contemplating where to put the switch.
Saga continues: Ordered & received a Jaguar part number C2S33496. Was packed tight in a cardboard box. Put it in the counter & this is what I saw:
Note the position of the float arm. It’s stuck at the 3 o’clock position. Hello. What happens when there’s less than half a tank?
Had to push the float arm to go down to the empty position shown here:
Arm position after pushing it down. Was if it was stuck in a detent.
Call to Ft. Myers Jag. Explained the issue. They ordered another & sent a return label. When the new one arrived, had them check it out before shipping to me. Guess what? It too was packed tightly & the arm got stuck in the same spot. Rather than sent it to me, they gave me a credit for everything. Ended up ordering a Delphi FG1618. It’s actually a little cheaper & unlike the Jag pump, it comes with a lifetime warranty.
It arrived today. Am gonna post this before losing it again. Guess there’s a time out.
Delphi pump comes without the float arm attached & in a much larger box. This is how it’s shipped.
So after snapping it in, lifted the arm to the full position & let go.
Like any other fuel sending unit I’ve handled in 50 years, the arm dropped to the empty position.
The Delphi comes with a lifetime warranty; the Jaguar OEM, only a 1 year warranty. So for the same price with shipping, I’m going with the Delphi. The parts guy at Ft Myers Jag is gonna attempt to get the problem resolved, but has not been able to get through. Just be aware.
For my next trick will be making up a cable harness with an A/B switch. This will allow me to select Pump A or Pump B. There is no <expletive deleted> way I ever want to drop the tank again. Using the old pump assy with a new pump & a piece from an old S-Type, will be able to draw fuel from both sides of the tank with either pump selected by a switch.
With tank out, drilled two 8” access holes. Used POR-15 to seal cutouts back in place for future access. Really didn’t want to cut any holes; however wasn’t able to get any 6-pin connectors to match the existing connectors. Wanna get the car back on the road. Tank is back in the car.
Seen pics/videos of making access openings with tank in place. Never saw how they resealed the openings.
Drilled holes after removing tank. Could of done it by simply removing two fuel tank strap bolts & letting front of the tank hang down a few inches & drilled 8” holes.
Without future ado, here’s pics. Can see before & after. Tomorrow will make measures & post for anyone wanting to use an 8” hole saw. Will
make a template as well.
Another thing to note is on my 2004 X-Type, tried 4 different fuel ring removers. All they did was break fins on the rings. There are tiny locking ‘fingers’ on the my rings. On a 2000 S-Type was able to easily use a screwdriver & hammer to remove the rings- no locking fingers. Had to use a Dremel to cut the rings on my car. New rings were $9 & change ordered from Ft. Myers Jaguar.
Before pic.
After first application of POR-15 Patch Sealant. Used two. Made a little mess using POR-15 paint.
Top view of 8” hole. Can see Delphi FG-1618 pump. Looks OEM to me. Two pumps from Jaguar had float arms that got stuck halfway through their travel. Delphi doesn’t ship the float arm attached.
Looks good to me after removing burrs & painting shiny metal with POR-15 paint.
11-07-2015, 09:43 PM
x-type fuel pump R&R w/o dropping tank
