Lady traded it in to her mechanic after the crossover pipe failed and she freaked out at the repair cost. Mechanic fix it and put it on CarGuru's cheap. So far, one of the intake pipes slipped off a MAF and through a CEL. Fixed that. It has funny wear on the outer edges of a nearly new DWS on the left front. Taking it to the dealer for an alignment and general underbody check it out. The dealer said it had seen regular maintenance until 48,000 miles and then nothing. CarFax showed regular oil changes up until she traded it in at 74,000 miles. At Valvoline. None of the free maintenance after 48,000 miles was done so it's going to need sparking plugs. Took it to Discount to have the balance checked out, right rear wheel was bent and left rear was cracked on the rim but not leaking. Ran to Modern Imports and grabbed a couple of used rear "Star" wheels. Took them back to Discount. One was good and the other bent so I took both bent wheels to AWS to get sorted out. When I get them back I'll take the cracked one in.

And I smell coolant under the hood. I washed the engine out thinking it could be residual coolant cooking off but I still smell it. Reservoir isn't down noticeably. It clearly has the new style crossover pipe and thermostat. He said he changed the WP but it doesn't look that new. He did say he changed the little pipe that goes from the WP to the oil cooler so maybe. I doubt he changed the oil cooler gasket.

Sound deadened the drivers side door card with CLD tiles and some Second Skin. Dumped a bottle of Techron in the tank and filled it up with Mobile Supreme. Ran the Midtronic battery tester. 575 CCA's so it's going to need a new battery.

 

Hope you get it sorted, it’s an enjoyable car. Much better audio environment than the F-type!

 

Welcome to the family

Dynamat all the doors, it'll make a huuuuge difference to the audio https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...18-xes-274104/

 

Got out the garden hose and flooded the valley under the supercharger. Coolant smell has mostly gone away. Topped off the coolant in the reservoir to a level on a reference mark I can keep my eye on.
Got the wheels back from AWR, look great. Went back to Discount and swapped wheels.
Bought LiquiMoly 0W20 LR from NAPA. NAPA Gold filters are on sale so I bought 4, enough to change out the fleet later this year. Bought 6 spark plugs.
Changed the oil and filter.
Couldn't find my 9/16 spark plug socket so ran to AutoZone and bought another one. Did the spark plugs.

With all this running around I'm getting to know the XE. Good lord this thing is fast.

The ICTP doesn't like all these short trips. First boot up of the day and it come up just fine. If I'm in the store for just a minute or two the system is still alive and comes back right away. But if I'm in the store for 10 minutes, the screen stays dead for anywhere from 1 to 10 minutes, no audio. I did connect to my house's WIFI and do an update. Disconnected from the WIFI and connected to the Remote APP. Subscription is up in March. I got a flyer from the other dealership in town. If I get $150 worth of service done they will give me a years worth of remote subscription for free. Which leads me to believe the dealership does have pricing authority. My dealership kept telling me it was a JLR thing. Four Remote subscription's at $150 per year per car kinda rubs me the wrong way.

 

I let my ICTP subscription lapse last year. Unexpectedly, I lost traffic info and the TuneIn streaming app. I have a SIM card I’m paying $20/mo for, but apparently that only is for the WiFi hotspot which i don’t use.

 

Got a rough low idle right after changing the plugs. Ran around a bit and got a CEL. Ran up to AutoZone and got P2189 & P2187. Looked at the fresh air hose again but this time it looked good. Searched on the forum for the codes and saw PCV references. Symptoms match up, rough idle, lean codes and black soot out the tail pipes. Going to run to the dealer this morning and grab a new one.

 

Changed out the PCV diaphragm and cover but rough idle came back. The diaphragm didn't look unhappy. It's weird, car needs to be good a warm for this to show up. Grabbed a can of MAF spray cleaner and started shooting all the vacuum pipes. Shot the back of the motor and the idle raised a bit. Found the small vacuum line at the back of the supercharger was not attached. Plugged it back in and the idle settled down immediately. Grabbed my Autel MD808P and cleared the codes. I sure hope that was the only thing the idiots that did the crossover pipe forgot.

 

Took the car to the dealership for a post purchase checkup and alignment. The left front tire with the wear was from 2020. Left rear was from 2021, right rear from 2022 and right front from 2023. She must have hit every pothole on offer. Bought a used front wheel from Modern Imports and had AWR recondition it. Bought a new DWS 06 Plus from Discount and had it installed on the reconditioned wheel.

Clunk sound from the drivers door shutting is the outer door skin hitting the intrusion beam. Apparently the adhesive has come in done. My 2017 F Pace makes the same chunk-clunk sound. Going to have to take the door card off again and try and get the door seal off to see if I can get an SEM two part gun in there.

 

Don’t think you mentioned what color your XE is.

 

 

Good looking car! How many miles? I saw you mentioned 74k earlier, but unsure if that is the current. I have the same color!

 

Been keeping an eye on the coolant level. Was a cup down over the first 5,000 mile LOF interval of our ownership.
Half way through the next 5,000 miles and the reservoir was down a bit below the minimum level. Topped it off and checked it a week later and it had lost half the reservoir.
Dropped it off on Sunday at my favorite JLR dealership (brand new including electric car service) and they got it in an repaired in one day. Rear manifold heater pipe.

 

What kind of coolant do you use to top it off?

 

Zerex dex-cool orange 50/50.