2011 XF Replace stock lug nuts.
So I have a 2011 XF 5.0L Naturally Aspirated.
I was changing my pads and flushing the brake fluid yesterday, and found out I have 1 stripped lug nut, and 1 that got stuck.
I tried slightly hammering the 19mm on the lug, and finally got it off. It got stuck in the socket, So i tried the screwdriver and tap to get it out, ended up going through the lug nut cap and damaging the thread. I did not expect the metal to be so thin.
I'm googling and doing searches on amazon for new lug nuts. Amazon says acorn styled lug nuts are ok, but the stock ones are mag-seat.
Please, can someone give me a definitive answer as to which lug nuts I can buy/use?
Can I use the magseat toyota ones, 73138T, everyone mentions around here?
are these any good?
20pc Black Mag Lug Nuts with Washer 12x1 5 for Stock Mitsubishi Wheels | eBay
Amazon.com: 20 Premium Black Mag Seat Lug Nuts for Factory/OEM Aluminum Wheels (M12x1.5): Automotive
Thank you
I was changing my pads and flushing the brake fluid yesterday, and found out I have 1 stripped lug nut, and 1 that got stuck.
I tried slightly hammering the 19mm on the lug, and finally got it off. It got stuck in the socket, So i tried the screwdriver and tap to get it out, ended up going through the lug nut cap and damaging the thread. I did not expect the metal to be so thin.
I'm googling and doing searches on amazon for new lug nuts. Amazon says acorn styled lug nuts are ok, but the stock ones are mag-seat.
Please, can someone give me a definitive answer as to which lug nuts I can buy/use?
Can I use the magseat toyota ones, 73138T, everyone mentions around here?
are these any good?
20pc Black Mag Lug Nuts with Washer 12x1 5 for Stock Mitsubishi Wheels | eBay
Thank you
No one really gives a definitive answer.
Everyone mentions something, but no link.
I guess I'll look around more.
You need the mag shank.
I also bought the locking gorilla nuts, got three of the four wheels done and the right rear nuts wont budge. I noticed in the past the factory lug nuts have a large amount of rust in them. Does anyone use anti seize to prevent this from happening?
I think the issue with the stuck nuts is the rust and the dealer again over tightened with an impact. They must have done one hell of a job because my air impact, cordless driver and a 4 way with a cheater bar will not get them to budge.
I am off to discount tire shortly to see if they can get them off.
Update
Discount tire got the lug nuts off when he saw how much rust was in the lug nuts he got a very uneasy look on his face. He recommended a little bit of WD40 on the threads to help prevent the rust. Before I left I read a lot of recommendations for a drop of ATF fluid which is what I used when I put the new lug nuts back on.
Is a small pile of rust normal for those lug nuts when you tap them on the ground?
I think the issue with the stuck nuts is the rust and the dealer again over tightened with an impact. They must have done one hell of a job because my air impact, cordless driver and a 4 way with a cheater bar will not get them to budge.
I am off to discount tire shortly to see if they can get them off.
Update
Discount tire got the lug nuts off when he saw how much rust was in the lug nuts he got a very uneasy look on his face. He recommended a little bit of WD40 on the threads to help prevent the rust. Before I left I read a lot of recommendations for a drop of ATF fluid which is what I used when I put the new lug nuts back on.
Is a small pile of rust normal for those lug nuts when you tap them on the ground?
Last edited by boiler; Jul 25, 2015 at 05:18 PM.
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I also bought the locking gorilla nuts, got three of the four wheels done and the right rear nuts wont budge. I noticed in the past the factory lug nuts have a large amount of rust in them. Does anyone use anti seize to prevent this from happening?
I think the issue with the stuck nuts is the rust and the dealer again over tightened with an impact. They must have done one hell of a job because my air impact, cordless driver and a 4 way with a cheater bar will not get them to budge.
I am off to discount tire shortly to see if they can get them off.
Update
Discount tire got the lug nuts off when he saw how much rust was in the lug nuts he got a very uneasy look on his face. He recommended a little bit of WD40 on the threads to help prevent the rust. Before I left I read a lot of recommendations for a drop of ATF fluid which is what I used when I put the new lug nuts back on.
Is a small pile of rust normal for those lug nuts when you tap them on the ground?
I think the issue with the stuck nuts is the rust and the dealer again over tightened with an impact. They must have done one hell of a job because my air impact, cordless driver and a 4 way with a cheater bar will not get them to budge.
I am off to discount tire shortly to see if they can get them off.
Update
Discount tire got the lug nuts off when he saw how much rust was in the lug nuts he got a very uneasy look on his face. He recommended a little bit of WD40 on the threads to help prevent the rust. Before I left I read a lot of recommendations for a drop of ATF fluid which is what I used when I put the new lug nuts back on.
Is a small pile of rust normal for those lug nuts when you tap them on the ground?
Please see below statement..LOL
Well I like using, real "Antiseeze" on lugs, and the prep is what's important. If you had that much rust, wire brushing then hitting the studs with some brake parts cleaner and then applying your antiseeze is the right way to do it. And way less work than replacing a broken off wheel stud.
Please see below statement..LOL
Please see below statement..LOL
I will check them again in a few weeks to see how they look.
It baffles me why a company would use such a bad design for something so critical on a car. Are the two piece lug nuts that much cheaper than a one piece? Then again this is the same company that can't figure out how to properly design a water pump that wont fail after 25k miles.
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