New to the forum, so I'm not sure if there is a better place to post this. If so, please feel free to direct me to the proper place.

The check engine light did come on the day I bought my 2012 Jaguar XF Portfolio after I filled up with gas. I was hoping it was the gas cap. Took it to a garage to have the codes read; and when I did the light wasn't on when they hooked it up to the computer. The code was P010B (B or 8, I couldn't quite tell), and they said it was likely just the gas cap. Hopped on and searched for ever on the forums and I read that when the gas cap does trigger the check engine light to come on it can take several engine cycles of start/stop, so I'm hoping that is all it was. Engine felt fine the whole time. Good power, not rough, some I'm hoping that's all it was.

Thanks in advance for everyone's help.

 

It will be an 8 not a B.

Unless the code reader also deleted the code, which normally one would do, then it will only extinguish after a number of ignition cycles without a repeat of the same fault. Only some codes will self correct in this way. The code reader should be able to delete or erase the code. If this was done and the CEL reappeared then the fault needs to be checked.

Lists of codes can be obtained from the Internet:

OBD-II Check Engine Light Trouble Codes

P0108 is manifold absolute pressure is high. Are you sure that B wasn't a 3? That code P0103 would be for an air leak into the manifold as from a leaking gas cap allowing additional unmeasured air into the intake.

Fuel vapour recovery system codes (air leaking gas cap should affect these codes) are in the P0440 to P0459 range.

Codes are just codes. The actual diagnosis requires skill. If your CEL remains on or reappears have a trained Jaguar mechanic check and diagnose the fault.

 

from Jagular....

He's right, it wouldn't be a B so probably a 3 or an 8 as Jagular said.

I'm sure you're now on the right track.............please be sure to keep posting into this thread and relay the latest info

Good luck

 

Thanks for the detailed response. Definitely wasn't a 3, so we know that much. It did go away on it's own and I haven't seen it since. If the manifold pressure is high, what does that mean? Is that a problem that normally self corrects? Is it a critical issue?

 

Any CEL that goes away is non-critical. This feature was incorporated into OBDII specifically for intermittent non-critical faults.

It is important to remember that OBD and OBDII were developed to track emissions critical faults electrical in origin.

Frankly, I don't bother to get the code read until the CEL is illuminated for a week or more unless other symptoms are evident.

 

Just a quick note to mention that some cars, including Jaguars, do have codes with a B (or A,C,D,E,F) in what used to be the all-numeric part (I know the S-Type diesel does, for example). It's because a few years ago the OBD spec moved to HEX (so, 0-9 and A-F) for each "digit" of the code. May not be the case for the OP's car.

 

Mine came on today while driving, but I filled up yesterday, but nothing sounded or felt strange to me, but I have an appointment for next Friday, hopefully it is just the emissions and needs reset.

 

You can check engine codes online there are many sites.

 

Much as the above post...........just Google P0108 or any other code and you'll get dozens of hits as to the meaning of the code.

 

Yes, but with any that start P1 be certain to look up for exactly your kind of car. They're make, model, year specific.

 

you can alway clear the code than disconnet the battery for at least 24h hours it should do the trick and clear the code for good.

 

Old thread, but I didn't see a post explaining the code, so I will update.

I got a P010B 232 today. Google search indicated it was a Generic :
Mass or Volume Air Flow "B" Circuit Range/Performance

I reset it and it didn't come back right away. No odd behavior. Love having this Obdcom reader.

 

Exactly, some will clear immediately, some require so many fault free starts to clear, some require so many drive cycles to clear and some require a combination of both fault free and drive cycles. Unless it puts you in limp home or you get other problems, just drive the car. Sometimes an event (Like filling up) can confuse the electronic nannies, then they just need to settle down. I've actually had mine go into limp home, (The event was a 121º start up in Vegas) restarted the car and never had another issue.

 

As for a MAF sensor error, I've seen a bunch of times on this forum the recommendation to take your sensor out and spray it with MAF cleaner. I had some weird/rough idle issues for a while until I did that. As soon as I cleaned them, my startup idle issues went away. If you're getting that error, it's probably worth doing the 10 min job of removing and spraying them.