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The reference in the manual, I'm almost certain requires TOPIX as I mention. It also generally will refer you to the following tests:
Measurement Applications may include:
• Datalogger
• Digital multimeter *
• Oscilloscope *
• Vehicle Vibration Analyzer *
• Driveshaft balancing tool *
* These tools must be used in conjunction with the Vehicle Measurement Module (VMM), currently supported only for Jaguar vehicles. The appearance and function of these tools is unchanged.
Most of us don't have the accompanying VMM that was supplied to dealerships.
Ah yes, you're referring to "Carry out any pinpoint tests associated with this DTC using the manufacturer approved diagnostic system" from the manual. My bad. As far as I know, you need a TOPIX Subscription to access those.
Many pinpoint tests are in the manual as well but I would defer to the forum for specific codes for a place to start when your vehicle throws a code.
To your first point, when I encountered the problem, the system wouldn't read my VIN at times. At other times it just didn't respond and the battery icon in SDD was grayed out.
Perhaps a tech has a better explanation, sorry
Hi Sean,
The power supply has arrived today, so I’m hoping to have another look at using the software tomorrow. However, using the circuit diagrams from the electrical manual I managed to locate a blown fuse which was not therefore feeding battery voltage to the diagnostic socket, so having replaced that I now feel more confident that the software will now know what the battery voltage is! I will update this thread with my findings...
Regards,
Colin
Good news Colin. I didn't have a blown fuse (obviously or I would have mentioned it), but if that's all it is, so much the better. I'll be interested to read the outcome.
You will still want to use your battery power supply with SDD as is standard practice, regardless of the fuse issue. It is money well spent.
Good news Colin. I didn't have a blown fuse (obviously or I would have mentioned it), but if that's all it is, so much the better. I'll be interested to read the outcome.
You will still want to use your battery power supply with SDD as is standard practice, regardless of the fuse issue. It is money well spent.
Not good news unfortunately! I connected the power supply and the battery indicator in the software turned to yellow (but disconnecting it I found it was still yellow); it turns to green when the engine is running which shows the alternator is charging and the system is reading the voltage OK now. I then checked the output of the power supply and found it was producing 14+ volts when not connected but as soon as it was connected to the car battery the voltage dropped to just 12V and a check on current flow from tte power supply found it was producing nothing at all! So it would appear that there is some fault with the power supply unit! Marvellous!
I then checked the output of the power supply and found it was producing 14+ volts when not connected but as soon as it was connected to the car battery the voltage dropped to just 12V and a check on current flow from tte power supply found it was producing nothing at all!
Not terrible news. You're making progress. It sounds like the fuse replacement is allowing you to see the battery indicator now?
You could certainly have a bad unit but what you're describing shouldn't happen (14 volts free and then nothing once connected). I hate to ask but the power supply switch is on, yes? And you connected it while the power switch was turned off and the ignition was off? If not, you may just be tripping the breaker. With the power supply turned off and the ignition off, connect the positive cable to the positive battery post first, followed by negative cable. You should see a little spark at the negative cable doing this sequence. Then power on the supply. Then check the voltage output at the battery posts. It should read the 14 volts if you haven't adjusted the VDC output knob.
Sometimes, at least my power supply, you connect it, power is on and correctly outputting the voltage. ( I set mine to 13.4v). Then you turn on your ignition, turn it off, once twice etc, while doing your work and the power supply quits. I think it triggers a breaker in the power supply and it shuts off. Simply shutting off and turning on the power supply fixes it. I have the supply in the trunk and can hear the fan so I know when this happens, I just go back to the unit, turn it off then on again and problem is solved. It doesn't sound like you're getting this far though.
Lastly, are you using the proper gauge wiring with the alligator clamps?
Not terrible news. You're making progress. It sounds like the fuse replacement is allowing you to see the battery indicator now?
You could certainly have a bad unit but what you're describing shouldn't happen (14 volts free and then nothing once connected). I hate to ask but the power supply switch is on, yes? And you connected it while the power switch was turned off and the ignition was off? If not, you may just be tripping the breaker. With the power supply turned off and the ignition off, connect the positive cable to the positive battery post first, followed by negative cable. You should see a little spark at the negative cable doing this sequence. Then power on the supply. Then check the voltage output at the battery posts. It should read the 14 volts if you haven't adjusted the VDC output knob.
Sometimes, at least my power supply, you connect it, power is on and correctly outputting the voltage. ( I set mine to 13.4v). Then you turn on your ignition, turn it off, once twice etc, while doing your work and the power supply quits. I think it triggers a breaker in the power supply and it shuts off. Simply shutting off and turning on the power supply fixes it. I have the supply in the trunk and can hear the fan so I know when this happens, I just go back to the unit, turn it off then on again and problem is solved. It doesn't sound like you're getting this far
I have just finished checking one more time.
Even though I was sure I made the connections before turning on either the ignition or the power supply. I had it in the boot alongside the battery and the fan in it was running all the time, but it didn’t produce more than 12.1V whilst it was connected to the battery. ☹️
Results were the same on checking again. If I check the “free” voltage it is 14+V, but after connecting to the battery and then turning on it briefly jumps up by about 0.3V and then drops back again. No additional current flow is detected into the battery from the power supply. The fan continues to run (actually the fan starts running as soon as it is connected to the battery even with the on/off switch in the “Off” position which I thought was odd! It looks like a faulty power supply unit to me! ☹️
I have had to return the power supply as it was faulty. However, I have found that the battery indicator stays green if I keep my battery charger connected.
It does appear that pinpoint testing is only available with a Topix Subscription. I did try to obtain
one but encountered problems on their website.
Does anyone have pinpoint testing information relating to parking brake testing please? I have a wiring diagram and service manual, but they don’t provide the information about voltages and resistances in the circuit. If I could find this information I’m sure I could resolve the problem. Thanks.
I have had to return the power supply as it was faulty. However, I have found that the battery indicator stays green if I keep my battery charger connected.
It does appear that pinpoint testing is only available with a Topix Subscription. I did try to obtain
one but encountered problems on their website.
Does anyone have pinpoint testing information relating to parking brake testing please? I have a wiring diagram and service manual, but they don’t provide the information about voltages and resistances in the circuit. If I could find this information I’m sure I could resolve the problem. Thanks.
Hi I hope your ok? Can I ask in you previous messages what problem did you have with the parking break and can I ask what fuse was blown when you connected the ppwer supply please?
thanks
Andy
Ya I was going to say there are a few rules to be aware of when using AC-DC power supplies.
1) NEVER connect the power supply to the load until AFTER the power supply has been switched on. Most power supplies spike in voltage when first switched on until regulated. My quality (not ebay) 13.8v power supply briefly jumps to 18v on startup.
2) Test your voltage at your connection point (alligator clips) before connecting to ensure you are in fact seeing 13.8v.
3) Test your voltage at your connection point AFTER connecting to identify any voltage drop due load x length of cable or too small of a gauge. When first connected expect to see a lower number than what you saw at step 2, this is simply the battery charging but after some amount of time the values you see at Step 3 and Step 2 should be the same. How long depends on the amperage rating of your PS.
If Step 2 shows 13.8v on a quality voltmeter/multimeter there's no harm in letting the PS sit on the battery for hours until you see 13.8v on the battery as well. But from the TSB it looks like Jaguar okays SDD use anywhere from 13-13.5v at the battery with a PS connected: "The voltage target with the PSC-550 connected and the 'Key On / Engine Off' should be 13.0 - 13.5 volts, even though IDS only inhibits module programming when voltage falls below 12.5 volts."
The rule of thumb is always "No load when switched on":
SWITCHING ON PROCEDURE
... b) Ensure that the power supply’s On/Off Switch (1, Fig 2.1 / 2.2) is in off position (edge of the switch with marking “o” will be in pressed down condition).
c) Switch off the 12V DC load that is required to be powered from the power supply. (disconnect the load)
....g) Switch on the unit by pressing down on the edge of the switch marked “ – ”.
h) 13.8 VDC will now be available at the DC output terminals (4, 3 in Fig 2.1 / 2.2)
i) Now switch on the DC load (connect the load)
NEVER connect the power supply to the load until AFTER the power supply has been switched on. Most power supplies spike in voltage when first switched on until regulated. My quality (not ebay) 13.8v power supply briefly jumps to 18v on startup.
Many power supplies NEED a load in order to regulate properly and will output spikes without one. With that (common) kind, ALWAYS connect it before switch on. A car and/or its battery is a good load
06-15-2018, 09:22 AM
