After swapping out my water pump I decided to replace the Y shaped coolant pipe under the supercharger along with the new upper plastic manifold. The new parts are one piece moldings so should last better but I'm stuck at the moment on trying to release the Secondary Bulkhead Center Panel. The manual doesn't show much detail with just a couple of what looks like the plastic push pins and then a further 3 "something" that might need to come out. The manual is for cars up to 2011 and mine is a 2012 and mine seems to be different. I found 3 bolts which look like they attach the panel but with them removed, the panel is still stuck tight. I removed the left hand secondary bulkhead panel (underneath the coolant reservoir) and am getting a little movement now but nothing encouraging.

Any advice would be appreciated?

 

Can you post a picture of what you're talking about?

 

Sure can. Here is a picture of the panel with my fat finger pointing at it:

Below is copied from the manual and it's item #4 on the list:


I ended up removing the left (I think) secondary bulkhead panel just to give me a bit more room. See below:



It looks like removing the center section of the secondary bulkhead would provide a bit more space when removing the rear heater pipe/crossover but I can't get it to come free.

Bonus questions since you've been there done that:

1. How easy was it to remove the rear hearer manifold/pipe thing that split on your car? I've removed the 4 screws but it isn't moving. I can apply more pressure but I don't want to snap anything off in the block.
2. The rubber covers over each cylinder head were a struggle to remove, especially the right hand side as you look at the engine. That's partly why I removed the secondary bulkhead in that area. The front part came away no problem but the back end seemed to snag on something and took a serious pull. Did you use any special technique to get it off?

Thanks

 

You wont brake anythingby forcing that heater pipe out and i usually try to brake apart cause who cares im replacing it. Note. V8's have 4 screws, v6 have 6.
that panel is a pia. Ill assume you removed all the bolts even the one on pass side below the outer fuse box cover. I also take out the electrical connector which in your pic still looks in place. Then its a matter of pull, no harder than that. Comeone wiggle it and pull. These are really ment to go in without a engine in there and are a royal pain. Like most things in life once you have done it a couple times it becomes easy. Getting back in is even more fun.
on the pipe also. Youll find that getting the bolts out was much easier than starting them. Try using the eyes on your finger tips cause that bout all you can see with. Start them all before you tighten any. And yes this job is why i bought and super mini 1/4" air ratchet to get back there just to save a little time and aggravation. The workshop manual as many of you are learning really does not have any real world proceedures and many steps missing along with techs tips like some other manufacturers have. Why i laugh when someone here tried to call me out about maybe i should try reading the manual on coolant draining. I guess he never read dale carnegie's book on "how to win freinds and influence people"
let me know if you have any other questions.
Bill

 

Thanks Bill, much appreciated. I sent you a PM but not sure if you saw it. Is that the best way to contact you?

I did have a go at removing the wiring loom - disconnected all the plugs at the front of the engine on the left bank (as you look in), opened up the loom carrier that runs along the cylinder head, pulled the connectors for the injectors and coil packs on that bank - only to find there is another wire that runs down the rear of the cylinder head to God knows where. My plan was to free the loom on that side of the motor and then pull it out of the way over to the other bank by the fuse box giving me better access to the heater pipe. Since that plan failed I'm probably going to head to the doctors and have him graft me on pair of hands from a 10 year old girl. That should make everything much easier during re-assembly.

 

No you only need to remove the one cam lock connector on the ecu and the 10mm bolt from the other connector where it goes over the top of the panel on the passenger side. Then flip it over the center and remove the bulkhead panel

 

"You wont brake anythingby forcing that heater pipe out and i usually try to brake apart cause who cares im replacing it. Note. V8's have 4 screws, v6 have 6."

Thanks for clearing up the mystery of the week for me....I've been trying to find the heater crossover pipe for my V6 SC with no luck at all on the parts sites, but I did find out that the part for the V8 won't fit...One of the websites came up with a warning , I forget now which one, but it really made me wonder if there wasn't a difference between the two engines that would change the heater pipe. Besides the maddening lack of parts info in the workshop manual that heater pipe doesn't show up in the sections on HVAC or Cooling System on most parts websites.I am going to need one from a V8 to reverse engineer as well as for my V6.

Now if I could just find a parts house that has all this stuff on hand I would be broke but happy.

 

Partsgeek.com list the v8, i didnt search v6 and theyre out of stock for $71. As much as i hate to recommend them anymore because they have really screwed me over the years on wrong parts. And i usually get stuck with them as i would have to pay to ship back (heavy and $$ to ship) they dont care when theyre wrong or not. Terrible customer service and alot of bbb complaints

 

I've been using Jaguar Columbia for my parts recently. They seem to be one of the cheapest I've seen and their parts guys are very helpful. They have a website oemdiscountcarparts.com

 

^^^^ theyre pretty cheap, not as low as i get but close, and defintily better than many online places for the couple pieces i just checked

 

No joy so far trying to find the part for the V6.....Out of stock everywhere I've looked.Always an adventure!

 

I didn't remove any of those panels when I took off/out my SC.

 

Sorry previous answer was from my phone, can't see a whole page at a time on this site with it, once you remove the 4 bolts on the rear xover pipe it should come loose, yours may be stuck as it's o ringed and the throttle coolant line connects to it, but 4 bolts is all that hold it on. I used a heat gun to heat up and soften the plastic engine side panels. Then negotiated them off.