Let's start tracking when XF engines need timing chains/tensioner replacements.

In this poll, if you needed a chain/tensioner replacement, select the option that represents the mileage on your car at the time that you needed the replacement.

If your engine hasn't needed a timing chain or tensioner replacement, then select your current mileage.

 

>Let's start tracking when XF engines need timing chains/tensioner replacements.

Can we also break it down to V6 v.s., V8 if that matters?
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You dreamed of a big star -
He played a mean guitar -
He loved to drive his Jaguar...

So welcome to the machine

 

Is the 5.0 to be included? May be unlike (say) 4.2.

 

I think he probably refers to the 5.0... !?
I'd vote but I am not 100% sure for now...

 

I voted based on an assumption that it was for 5.0 based on recent threads, and the known issue with timing guide wear on early variants of these engines

 

Too many engines to include all the options in a poll and accounting for the mileage, which is key. Only 10 selections possible. Maybe best to just put in the comments which year/engine applies for your poll answer.

 

I'm just over 100,000 miles with no apparent timing chain/tensioner related problems so I voted that it's OK. But I'm gearing up to change the chains and tensioners anyway based on advice on this forum.

 

what are the symptoms to look out for to determine if it requires replacement?

 

 

Case and point - my chains are rattling at start up and its around 185,000 km.
Placed an order for all the upgrade parts and I will be replacing them as soon Spring hits Canada (end April usually) - in the meantime I baby it as much as possible, just to be on the safe side (which is sooo hard... cus this engine is soo smooth otherwise, and begs to be pushed).

 

Are you planning to do the install yourself?

 

Yes, I am planning to do this myself since they ask for an arm and a leg.

 

Happy to help with any info required on the chain replacement on the 5.0 V8. You'll need a few special tools.

 

Thanks! I'm 100% sure I will be having a few questions when I start doing this .

I will start my own thread on this so I can keep everything in one place and it will be easier for me to follow. Until then I am slowly getting what I need - there are a few things I want to tackle - transmission (oil, oil pan and check to see if I need to do the valve body sleeve connector seal as well) and rear diff (mostly an oil change, nothing important)... and anything else I encounter on the way (hopefully not a lot).

 

If you're draining the transmission oil and dropping the pan, change the sleeves - they can be found cheap enough online and it's an easy enough job that it's truly a no-brainer. The sleeves you'll need to change are the connector sleeve for the mechatronic unit connector where the loom plugs in - do not touch the pins inside this connector without suitable anti-static gear like a wrist strap, as the mechatronic electronics inside are very sensitive to static electricity. This sleeve can take more tugging with pliers than you'd think to remove the original one. Then drop the valvebody and change the mechatronic seals, there's one that's like two squares joined together and another 3 tubes that are all different lengths, so you need to make sure you get them the right way round. Pretty easy job though, and since these ZF 6HP28 boxes are found in all sorts of cars like BMWs then there's countless videos of this on youtube.

Check this thread I did a while ago for some pics - though don't necessarily bother with the valvebody rebuild unless you're feeling very brave or stupid.

 

Yep, I was planning to do that.
Your linked thread will be a live saver - thanks!

I already have the oil pan, just missing the 6 pieces kit that is on its way.
Darn... maybe I should start my thread already... yep, will do it later on today; I'm starting to have questions in my head already.

 

167K on my 11 5.0S and haven't had to replace. I do have some the knock/rattle on warm restarts. That was since at least 86K when I bought the car. I learned about this issue early on in ownership and how important it is (in this car in particular) to keep an eye on the oil level, since there is no dipstick. So, on warm restarts I have always raised the idle to around 1500 for about 10 to 20 sec before the journey and the noise goes away. Not sure if doing this saved my engine or not, but it might help for those who can't change to the upgraded parts for a while.

 

2009 XFR with just over 92k on it - no appearance of any timing chain issues so far.

 

Going by my 2010, I'm just over 200k km and still sounding good but will be planning a swap this summer just to be safe.

 

You doing it yourself? It's an expensive and difficult job to do as maintenance. I thought timing belts were a pain, but these chains look like a lot more work.