Apologies ahead of time as I am new here and trying to get my bearings on how this forum works. Reposting from my post in the general area:

"Bought a gorgeous 2011 XF Premium with one prior owner and a loving service record. I mean, really excellent. Three months into owning her and WHOMP! Restricted performance and flashing engine light. Got it to an independent Jag mechanic and the engine will NOT turn. Checked everything. The engine will turn by hand, but the 4th injector is sticking open and spraying all over. Two weeks into it and he's thrown up his hands. Taking it to a dealer. So what the devil? Why would the injector not close? Is that a proper mechanical issue or a computer issue? Mechanic says he has the code, but he cannot fix the computer. Off to the dealer tomorrow. If anyone has experience with this issue, can you tell me what to expect? Replace one injector? All of them? Is it a computer code issue? Is my new cat DOA?? So bummed. Prior to this there were zero issues and she drives like fingertips on velvet."

The mechanic says everything looks great - he tried replacing starter, battery, all the coils and everything are fine. It's a mystery to him why this is happening. I'm hoping to understand likely problems so I am able to follow the service suggestions and repairs with confidence in the dealership mechanic. I have been reading the forums to learn about the injection system and things that can go wrong, but I am out of my depth. My biggest question is WHY would the injector open and then stay stuck open? Is that likely mechanical or a computer error? Is this a fixable problem or am I looking at a hopeless money pit?

I am in Texas.
2011 Jaguar XF Premium
5.0L V8 F 32V
Gasoline
Rear Wheel Drive

 

Not uncommon and the recommendation is to replace all 4 injectors on that side of the engine. Not much more labor and for sure you don't want to fix one and then need to go back in to change another one! Be VERY aware of the enormous amount of counterfeit parts out there. I spent a terribly unhappy two weeks on my car because of that!

Since your new do some reading and searching because when doing that repair you will be right there for a number of other common repairs.
Does the SC snout have a clunk on shut down?
Those terrible plastic cooling pipes can be changed to Aluminum and again we have dozens of threads with pictures on changing these out.

But I think your in for a lot of expense if you can't or won't DIY the repairs? It's all on this forum if you do want to DIY the repairs.
I can't help as I don't understand why he can't fix the computer? I don't think he understands Jaguar's very well. The "computer" or ECM is almost never the problem.

Make sure everytime you post to include the actual codes. Without starting there you don't know where your at. The mechanic needs to be using SDD so that's another subject you will need to read about. There are over 500+ threads on SDD. He should be writing the codes on your repair receipt too.

But you came to right place as this forum has all that you need.
.
.
.

 

Thank you for the detailed reply!

I have no hope of DIY on anything complicated, and very little on even common things, although I hope to learn. Totally outside my wheelhouse. But I will be reading your recommended areas here to get better educated.

My mechanic had the code and told it to me, but I was out and about an unable to write it down. I will get the proper code later this morning and post it. This morning looks like I will be getting the car moved over to the dealership, which is mercifully close, but still, that will be a process. I will make sure to specify they only use the proper injectors. I would hope the Jag dealership would only use authentic parts, but I will be sure to be clear on that!

Thank you for the advice on the injector replacement. That's exactly the sort of thing I am here to learn - if a mechanic told me he had to replace all 4 bc one is bad, I would not be sure if he was taking advantage of my ignorance. I have no idea on the SC snout, but I will ask my mechanic this morning if that is happening.

I'm going to read the areas you recommended reading and get some better knowledge going for myself. This place is wonderful - I realize I have bought into a lot of repair issues with the car, but I love it, and I hope it isn't totally bricked.

You're an angel, truly!

 

The SC snout is common and NOT a big deal! Here is how to tell if your car has it.
With the car running turn off the radio. Open the drivers door and listen carefully when you turn the key off. If you hear some clunks that's it. It can also sound like marbles in a can when the car is ideling and your standing in front of it with the hood open.

Something to fix but you won't break down and mine has been making noise for 20K+ miles. I have the part but as I posted above these are difficult cars to work on so I bundle the repairs/mods when I can.

Can't explain the 4 injectors either other than when the cars were new and under warranty Jaguar usually made the dealers replace all the injectors on that side of the engine. I think it was because of the amount of labor involved with just changing one injector. Yes the dealer I would hope will use the correct parts but hold onto your hat because it will be expensive! The good thing is the dealers give a year warranty on repairs so you do have some protection.

Post back with codes as that is the real key.
.
.
.

 

I'm seeing about $200 per injector just on parts. Does that sound about right to you?

 

Watch the channel

 

Trying to learn here; "injector stuck open" is that a mechanical or electrical failure in this case?

Makes sense to replace the whole bank of injectors given they are not hugely expensive. They all are share the same experience so when one goes, next ain't far.

 

Ethanol in the fuel can cause the lubrication to be stripped out of the injector parts and can cause locking. E85 cars have to run a injector lubrication additive because of this. Ethanol also is corrosive to metal. Also heat breaks down the parts as they are under 2000+ PSI fuel pressure and have intense combustion heat. It is a normal wear item on a DI engine. You should plan to change them out about every 10 years or so to keep this from happening in the future. You should replace your fuel filter as well every 10 years or so as well. Its under the passenger rear seat under a circular cover. This will keep the gunk in fuel from clogging your fuel system and causing issues. Two more items you should change out every 10 years is the upstream and downstream 02 sensors (2 each 4 total). Make sure they are DENSO brand or BOSCH. Do not skimp out on these critical parts. The other part is Spark plugs. Denso Iridium or NGK Ruthenium or BOSCH Iridium.

Make sure you use Bosch injectors. Never use knockoffs or off brand injectors. This is one place you cannot go cheaper on. This will eventually happen on all DI engine'd cars. Every third tank of fuel I use Lucas Fuel Treatment to clean and lubricate the injectors to keep them tip top.

Side note, if you do lots of short trips with the car and do not drive it hard, you will have significant carbon buildup in the intake manifold. Be sure to check that because it can blow your engine if not caught in time. Also if your car has intermittent issues shuddering, it can be a clogged catalytic converter. The cats can melt and get clogged if the things above go bad and cause a lean AFR for too long. Problems begat problems.

All the fluids in the car should never go over 50K miles. Brake Fluid, Power Steering, Transmission fluid/filter, Differential Fluid, Coolant, and if you have one the S/C oil. Every 50K mi dump all the fluids as they break down with heat and time.

 

Thank you for the detailed info!

 

Lots of people here good at spending other people's money😁

 

Well here comes a sad trombone.

The Jag/Land Rover dealership had it for a week and came to the conclusion the engine needs to be replaced. $19,000 (plus labor, of course). That's not happening. That's just a nice down payment on a new or newer car. I do see rebuilt engines available for $5-12K but I'm pretty sure that's just asking for another round of torture. Absolutely beautiful car. Drove like a dream until suddenly she didn't. Three months. RIP.

Thank you to all who gave me help and hope, but I know my limits on throwing good money after bad. And now Jag isn't even going to make petrol cars anymore. Sigh.

Time to investigate selling her for parts. Making a martini so I can cry into it.

 

Ouch. The conclusion of new engine depends on the actual diagnosis of issues. Did they give concrete reasons why?

Get it home and take your time finding the right buyer.

I find Manhattans more receptive.

 

Sounds like you are surrounded by useless mechanics who don't know how to diagnose properly or are too busy to mess with it.
​​​​
But in your first posting you say the engine won't turn then it will turn by hand so who knows.... Does the injector have power to it when it is spraying, who knows.....

 

Replace the stuck open injector, $120

 

That won't help if it's powered open all the time.

 

kansanbrit would that be a programming issue? I don't understand how it stays powered up?
.
.
.

 

Let me get this straight, they charged you $10K+ did a bunch of work and then said at the end the motor is blown? That is a lawsuit. Have you looked up their business license and bbb rating? Good standing? You can make a claim on their business insurance for EEO and get back your 10K. You could report them for unfair business practices with the BBB and local news to pressure them to do the right thing. They should have known the motor was blown before they even charged you a dollar. You should have known that before the work started. You wouldn't have even tried to put that money in it had you known that...you could have spent less $$ on a new engine with the links below.

To cheer you up, check this out. AJ133 5.0L S/C Engine $7K back up and running. IF that is too much there is This Kit if you have someone else to do it. Either way you need a different opinion and shop IMO. See if there is a Eurocharged shop nearby.

 

if the injector has a shorted coil it will stay stuck open ,remove it and replace it then you have to change your oil to prevent hydrolock if you check the resistance it should be between 1.8 and 2.0 .

 

How would it ever open in the first place with a shorted coil ?

 

Could be a blown up output stage in the ECU.