XFR/XFRS Direct injection carbon build-up
Hi
New to the form here. I have a 2013 XFR with 50 000m on and was just wondering if I need to be concerned about carbon buildup on the intake valves or manifold and if it's a common issue on the AJV8?
Is it necessary to get a oil catch can in there or take the s/c off to clean out or should I just carry on with normal oil changes etc.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
Nick
New to the form here. I have a 2013 XFR with 50 000m on and was just wondering if I need to be concerned about carbon buildup on the intake valves or manifold and if it's a common issue on the AJV8?
Is it necessary to get a oil catch can in there or take the s/c off to clean out or should I just carry on with normal oil changes etc.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
Nick
I see your new but yes this has all been discussed before if you search. Catch cans are VERY common on US muscle cars. I have only seen 1 or 2 installed on Jaguars and they do collect fluids so it does work. Now does it reduce the back of valve build up in DI engines? That's not really known but if you think about it removing any oils/fluids from the crankcase air flow is a good thing for many reasons.
Also we seem to be lucky as the 5.0L V-8 does NOT build much in the way of deposits but strangely it's way worse on the Land Rover side of the company and they use the same engines? One explanation has been LR outsells Jaguar about 6 to 1 so just a lot more LR's on the road.
If your worried there are some cleaners you can try for DI engines but again not really any data on if or how well they work.
As always the guys that use it claim it works wonders and the rest of us just don't know.
If you search there are a number of pictures when guys pulled the SC to do other work and inspected the backs of the intake valves. Usually there is crud built up and they use carb cleaner and towels to remove what they can. Not like an Audi where you need to remove everything and walnut shell blast the backs of the valves.
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Also we seem to be lucky as the 5.0L V-8 does NOT build much in the way of deposits but strangely it's way worse on the Land Rover side of the company and they use the same engines? One explanation has been LR outsells Jaguar about 6 to 1 so just a lot more LR's on the road.
If your worried there are some cleaners you can try for DI engines but again not really any data on if or how well they work.
As always the guys that use it claim it works wonders and the rest of us just don't know.
If you search there are a number of pictures when guys pulled the SC to do other work and inspected the backs of the intake valves. Usually there is crud built up and they use carb cleaner and towels to remove what they can. Not like an Audi where you need to remove everything and walnut shell blast the backs of the valves.
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Thank you so much for your reply and advice. I'm a bit less worried now.
I will follow what you said and go the carb cleaner route with my mechanic and leave the catch can idea for now.
Again - appreciate your reply. This is an awesome and helpful forum
I will follow what you said and go the carb cleaner route with my mechanic and leave the catch can idea for now.
Again - appreciate your reply. This is an awesome and helpful forum
As clubairth1 says there are lots of opinions and views on the effectiveness or otherwise of catch cans and "spray into the intake" cleaners but no definitive data or results, some claim catch cans and/or cleaners work, others claim they don't do much at all.
The AJ133 has two "oil separators" built in, on the top rear of the RHS bank while the AJ126 has only one (in the same place), and some claim that these work quite well and negate the need for a catch can.
I have used CRC GDI IVD Intake Valve cleaner (sprayed into the back of the SC via the brake booster vacuum line) three times now and I think it has helped but without pulling the SC off and peeking at the intake valves and tracts I can't verify this. The consensus seems to be that it works well as a preventative measure on a relatively clean engine but doesn't do a helluva lot to remove heavily caked on carbon deposits unless you pull the SC off and spray it directly onto the backs of the intake valves. There are a couple of YouTube vids showing people using this product sprayed directly onto the intake valves as a cleaner in preference to using carb cleaner, and used this way with some hard scrubbing and rinsing it really works.
Hi OzXFR
Thanks for the info, should I just go on and wait for any performance loss and turn my attention to this situation like, what are the signs if this actually becomes a problem?
Maybe I shouldn't be worried at all but I care a lot about my cars and this is my first DI engine and lots of people say a catch can is a definite for DI engine etc etc...
I'm guessing I have the same engine as the F-Type R (AJ133) so the oil separators it has is good to hear.
Thanks for the info, should I just go on and wait for any performance loss and turn my attention to this situation like, what are the signs if this actually becomes a problem?
Maybe I shouldn't be worried at all but I care a lot about my cars and this is my first DI engine and lots of people say a catch can is a definite for DI engine etc etc...
I'm guessing I have the same engine as the F-Type R (AJ133) so the oil separators it has is good to hear.
Personally I wouldn't worry about it. I have 75k miles on my 2010 V8 SC and still drives to perfection. Never had the SC off, and never sprayed anything or used additives
Maybe I just got lucky. Maybe an issue building up. But my view is pay attention to oil level, coolant, other fluids regularly as those can cause far more issues. and then just drive and enjoy!
Maybe I just got lucky. Maybe an issue building up. But my view is pay attention to oil level, coolant, other fluids regularly as those can cause far more issues. and then just drive and enjoy!
Hi OzXFR
Thanks for the info, should I just go on and wait for any performance loss and turn my attention to this situation like, what are the signs if this actually becomes a problem?
Maybe I shouldn't be worried at all but I care a lot about my cars and this is my first DI engine and lots of people say a catch can is a definite for DI engine etc etc...
I'm guessing I have the same engine as the F-Type R (AJ133) so the oil separators it has is good to hear.
Thanks for the info, should I just go on and wait for any performance loss and turn my attention to this situation like, what are the signs if this actually becomes a problem?
Maybe I shouldn't be worried at all but I care a lot about my cars and this is my first DI engine and lots of people say a catch can is a definite for DI engine etc etc...
I'm guessing I have the same engine as the F-Type R (AJ133) so the oil separators it has is good to hear.
From all my reading and research the numero uno thing you can do to reduce carbon build up on a DI engine is to change the oil regularly.
The JLR schedule of 16,000 miles or 12 months whichever comes first is BS and way too long, those in the know change the oil every 8,000 or even 5,000 miles and it makes a yuge difference.
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Thanks so much you guys!!
I've decided to just leave it then and will continue to do frequent oil changes every 8000kms (5000miles). It saves me a lot of time, energy and money too.
A lot of people says the 5.0 is a very strong engine and so far mine is very much proof of that.
I've decided to just leave it then and will continue to do frequent oil changes every 8000kms (5000miles). It saves me a lot of time, energy and money too.
A lot of people says the 5.0 is a very strong engine and so far mine is very much proof of that.
I had considerable carbon build up on my valves at 60k miles on my 2011 XFR. I was able to remove some of this build up physically with my supercharger off. Another forum member had good results with CRC GDI cleaner.
Did you notice any performance loss because of it or did you just decided to randomly check if you have carbon build up?
I don't know what signs there will be if that is the case
I don't know what signs there will be if that is the case
Yep you have the same engine, AJ133SC.
From all my reading and research the numero uno thing you can do to reduce carbon build up on a DI engine is to change the oil regularly.
The JLR schedule of 16,000 miles or 12 months whichever comes first is BS and way too long, those in the know change the oil every 8,000 or even 5,000 miles and it makes a yuge difference.
From all my reading and research the numero uno thing you can do to reduce carbon build up on a DI engine is to change the oil regularly.
The JLR schedule of 16,000 miles or 12 months whichever comes first is BS and way too long, those in the know change the oil every 8,000 or even 5,000 miles and it makes a yuge difference.
No you won't notice anything.
Selected quotes:
"One of the risks of this strategy is that there is a higher chance of oil dilution due to unburned fuel running down cylinder walls past those low-friction rings. Hydrocarbon vapors in the crankcase, a combination of the thin oil and unburned fuel, are then siphoned by the PCV system into the intake ports. Most of that additional hydrocarbon is burned in the combustion chamber, but some ends up on valve stems and intake ports and begins to cake up in the absence of raw gasoline flushing though these ports."
"A maintenance note: Though modern engines with their very tight tolerances run incredibly clean compared to older models, oil dilution, as mentioned above, is still a problem. Despite manufacturers often writing their owner’s manuals and other literature recommending infrequent oil changes (7,500 or even 15,000 mile intervals) it is now accepted that GDI engines should have an oil change every 5000 miles in order to reduce the chances of intake valve and port carbon buildup. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations for oil grade and viscosity."
Also see here: https://carfromjapan.com/article/car...d-up-symptoms/
Quote:
"1. Regular Maintenance
One of the ideal ways to prevent carbon build up is periodic maintenance. While following the essential maintenance tips, the full synthetic oil is to be changed after every 5,000 miles. This allows intake valves to perform efficiently.Last edited by OzXFR; Sep 28, 2021 at 07:18 PM.
The carbon deposits can lead to detonation, valve damage, etc.
the build up on our engines is not as bad as some other DI engines.
Agreed on doing regular oil changes. Not on any other high performance motor is a 10k mile oil change acceptable. I change every 3-5k.
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