I was told I had a leak in the Coolant Y pipe and that it runs under the supercharger and leaking down in the engine valley. Well a month later I gunned it coming off a stop light. Nothing happened immediately that I know of but 3-4 mins late i pulled into atwoods. Came out and as I was pulling out of their noticed my low coolant light. Temp seemed fine. I drive it home and notice im smelling coolant. As I'm waiting for the the garage to open a little knock at low rpm and stutter to take off. get out and smoke is pouring out i assume from hot coolant everywhere. Fast forward I cant find the actually leak(coolant everywhere) which makes me think its that Y pipe under the supercharger. Why would that cause an engine knock. I still have some coolant in the reservoir. ANY THOUGHTS OR RECCCOMENDATIONS ? how bad is this fix im thinking i may do it myself and send my supercharger off to get rebuilt and ported while im at it. I have my GranTurismo S to drive in the mean time. any help would be GREATLY appreciated. Would you replace anything else while im in there ? Ive done basically everything else you can do to the car to max out the horsepower without going inside the motor or replacing headers or anything. we figure to be about 680hp or so. thanks in advance !

 

Why did you keep driving with a low coolant error? Did you check and top up the coolant? As you know these are all Aluminum engines that cannot tolerate any over heating without total destruction. Let's hope you are OK?
The Y pipe is at the front of the engine and not under the SC? Yes they do fail and leak. It's a common failure for sure.

Glad to hear you can DIY the repairs but that knock will need to be diagnosed. What is the oil level? Has it been checked regularly?
You might consider replacing all the cooling hoses and plastic parts at one time and use the better Aluminum parts that have been released.
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I checked the temp guage is it hadnt moved. I went straight home which was less than 10 mins. Temp gauge stayed steady the entire time. It still had a good amount of coolant left in it. oil had just been changed either the week or 2 before this issue. oil level is normal. According to the temp guauge i didnt get it hot I think it was just hot coolant sizzling all over the place. Dealer told me it was leaking into the engine valley so what would that of been then. Yea ill probably swap most of the lines. what what like would it be that you need to pull the SC for ? thanks !

 

There is another leaker on the back of the engine called the rear water manifold and it also has been released in Aluminum. While I did just change this with the SC on if you look at what needs to be replaced you will soon see it's just MUCH easier/better to do all these repairs with the SC off. It's all labor and the parts are not that expensive so plan on taking stuff apart once and do it all at the same time.

Other things to consider? Do you want to remove the symposer? Replace the hose coming off the rear water manifold with the much simpler and cheaper version now used on both the 3.0L and 5.0L engines? All this is at the back of the engine and is very difficult to get at or work on. My hands and arms are still healing from the wounds I got!

There is a series of things to decide before you jump into it.

Do you want to install a upper or lower pulley? Great time to do it.
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Hey well I’ve already done pulleys. I was also thinking of deleting the symposer actually. Thanks the the suggestion. I’m struggling getting what I suppose is some hidden bolts holding it down. The front and really most of it rocks up and down a bit but it’s not budging. Had to be more back there did you remove the wire loom ? I’m gonna do that I think. I feel ya my hands are not doing well. Haha.

Do you have a replacement cooling pipe kit you reccomend there is some on eBay but they look like they still have some pv/ rubber but could
be wrong. You have a recommendation for an upgraded intercooler ? I’d like to eliminate as much as the heat soak as possible. I’m gonna see if I can get to 750hp. Thanks again for your advice. It’s very much appreciated.

 

OK well without all the details you will often get wrong suggestions.
Here is a pretty big thread on removing it and what to do about blocking the port off. I have now installed VAP's custom block off plate and have no complaints. It is expensive for what it is too!
Symposer Removal

Since posting to that thread I have completely removed the Symposer. Capped the vacuum actuator and left the electrical plug connected so the car does not see any changes.
Here is a large thread for the F-Type but it has a lot of great pictures and different solutions posted.
F-Type Symposer Removal


A real classic thread from theRock88. He does great work and very nice explanations.
TheRock88 Symposer Removal


Look at those threads and I bet you will find a picture of the bolts and where they are.
Here is a thread with my pictures of what I removed to get at the back of the engine to remove the Symposer and replace the rear water manifold with an after market metal one. Note! Beware of those secondary bulkheads as they were a large PIA to deal with!
Coolant Leak with Pictures
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I would assess the health of the engine and maybe drain the oil before making any purchases. Stuttering and knocking noise means engine damage.

 

Finally got it all apart. I am shipping the SC off to get some porting and rebuilding done. I am going to do a full coolant and oil flush. especially since now that ive taken the engine oil cooler off and they have cross contaminated.

 

UPDATE. Engine seems fine I think it was just knocking a but due to heat soak. Got ALL the PVC lines replaced with the aluminum ones and man was that a pain. I also in the process sent my supercharger of to Stiegemeier for rebuild and porting. I got it back from Bob exactly 2 weeks to the day I shipped it out. so they had it in their possession less than a week and did a wonderful job from what I can tell. Communication was fantastic. I havent driven it yet as I am waiting on a small part and my friend is repainting my front bunper so my wheels are off currently on the front. thanks everyone for the help!

 

Was this the time it overheated that you found out in the end that the block was warped?
If so, it's a good cautionary tale and example to teach others how important it is to shut down the engine as soon as a cooling system failure happens.

 

Not practical in many situations and with many less technical drivers. The time you have before warpage is very little. Everyone needs to quit being a baby about it and switch to waterless coolant so you stop blowing up your engines.

 

Still on the waterless coolant soapbox eh?

 

Still afraid of things you don’t understand and driving a ticking timebomb? 🤣🤣🤣