Hi!
My 2011 XJ L Supercharged has the "restricted performance" and "engine" light on. Engine will turn over, then will idle but sputters and can't be driven because it would buck and limp if i tried to drive it. Battery is fine. Codes are P0087 and P2279, and all 8 cylinders are not getting enough fuel pressure according to my friend who is a mechanic with the code reader. He says it indicates "fuel rail pressure low," and the other code is "air intake system leak." He doesn't think it's the fuel pump since he could get the engine to idle fine. I don't know what any of this means, but the dealer is over 100 miles away, and I'm hoping my friend can fix my car.
Do you know what this combination of codes means for my car?
thanks so much for your help!

 

I've moved your question from General Tech Help to X351 forum. This is the place to post technical questions about your model.

The Jaguar DTC lookup for those codes gives:






Graham

 

Really appreciate your help, Graham. :-)
I will hop over to the other forum on this topic. Looking forward to getting the lovely car back on the road and to my biggest problem with the car being brake dust on the wheels!
Great to be here, you are so helpful! And wow, your XK 5.0 Signature Coupe is beautiful.

 

I don't want to use any profanity, I'm very new here this thread says maybe $2825 to $3825
if it's the fuel pump. boooooo i hope it's a less spendy issue
https://repairpal.com/estimator/jagu...placement-cost

 

Nahla, unfortunately, there is not a lot that can be done unless your friend has a code reader that can also reader the parameters that the engine computer is seeing. He can then look at the fuel rail pressure. This is not something that you can measure with a pressure gauge. Due to the options on your car, the fuel rail pressure can get up to around 25,000 psi of pressure. This is well beyond what a normal pressure gauge will be able to handle. But, the computer sees this pressure through a special sensor on your car (hence the code). That will atleast confirm that you have low fuel rail pressure (the most likely cause of what you are seeing). Otherwise, you are looking at finding a local mechanic that is used to working on European cars and then having them look at it. This is where a dealership level computer will tell a lot more and narrow things down to a single component.

As for the reader that you would need to read the fuel rail pressure, this can run you from $20 up to a few thousand (depending on how many other features you want). For the average person, I would say to spend the $20 on a device called an "ELM 327". It is a code reader that plugs into your car and using an android phone, you can download a free app called "Torque". This will allow you to connect the phone to the car via bluetooth and see what is going on. With that being said, the ELM 327 unit will need to be a version 2.1 unit. There are some other versions out there and not all work with your car.

If you need more help, let me know. I have a service manual and it might provide some insight into what you can do.

 

Thanks so much, Thermo Is the device something i can get on amazon, do you think? I will look there. I really appreciate your taking the time to reply and help me out.
Nahla

 

Hi Thermo and Graham and all,
I found these on Amazon. One says it should work with IPhone, which I have. DH has an android phone, but it would be more convenient if i could use my iphone, if you think that one will work? Do you guys have any advice about which one of these i should buy? Or is there another one that is better?
This is the first time I've had to do anything to work on this car, and it's out of warranty.... should I be worried about the future and expecting to have to do a lot of repairs, or are these XJs pretty good in that respect? It's got 64,000 miles or so on it. I should have asked these questions before we bought it, i guess, but its so sweeeeeeet.
thank you so much!
Newbie Nahla

 

Nahla, the LZLRUN Vgate unit should do what you are after if you want something for your own use. Says that it will run on the iPhone and it has both a reading for fuel system status and for fuel pressure. I personally have the 3rd one (the blue Android Torque unit). Has a lot of features that if you know what they mean, can make figuring out what is going on with a vehicle nice.

In your case, you will want to stick in the unit, get the program up and running on your phone. From there, start the car. It will take a few seconds, but the phone will sync in with the car. From there, bring up the fuel pressure indicator. Write down what the pressure is at idle and then try and bring the engine RPMs up to 2,000 RPM and note that pressure. From there, we should be able to tell you what is going on and atleast confirm to you that it is a fuel pump issue or not. The problem comes in that you have a fuel pump with a computer driving it to vary the pressure. So, we won't be able to tell you if it is the pump or the electronics that is the issue. This is where a local mechanic will need to do more detailed analysis to ensure you only replace what is needed.

 

hi Thermo! I ended up buying the blue android torque unit like the one you have. We'll use DH's phone for this tomorrow night. We will do exactly what you said, and get back on here in 20-24 hours and hope for more help We will at least get so far as to confirm whether it's a fuel pump issue or not, and that will get us some distance indeed! which is worse, the pump, or the electronics? Is the air intake fault code P2279 related to the fuel pressure too?
thanks so much for your help

 

Nahla, odds are, the car is seeing the exhaust being too lean, which is throwing the code. The exhaust can easily be too lean as the amount of fuel that makes it into the engine is a function of the fuel pressure. if the fuel pressure is too low, it doesn't squirt in enough fuel and that gives you the lean condition. the only way to get a lean code from the intake is to have a hole in the intake. This is normally associated with a sucking sound that can be heard a lot of times. Your friend should be able to rule this out. Besides, unless you have been living with one of these 2 codes for awhile, the odds of having 2 separate issues (ie, low fuel pressure and an intake problem) at the same time is pretty low. Normally one problem will cause multiple codes to come up. this is where you need to see what is common between the codes and this can help you narrow down where the problem is. In your case, the low fuel pressure is causing the lean condition.

As for the reader, you can always find a cheap android phone (talk to one of your friends that just recently upgraded their phone) and you can keep that phone around for using the reader. Not something yo have to carry with you all the time. But, something to have handy should you need it.

 

:-) great! thanks for explaining so clearly. excellent idea about where to find a cheap android phone too!
all best to you,
Nahla

 

Yay! It's here! I found an old android phone and am charging it up now, then will install the app and get to work on this in a little while this forum is so great.

 

Hi everyone,
my friend wasn't really able to help other than to say he thought it was a vacuum problem, and he didn't think it was a fuel pump issue because he could get the car to idle by giving it some gas with the gas pedal. I couldn't get it to idle, fwiw. Anyway, I had it towed to the dealership and the diagnosis was that two high pressure fuel pumps were both defective, there is no warranty or other coverage, and they both need to be replaced. The person I spoke to said it would be about a 6-7 hour job, total cost about $2800 USD. I don't have any other options, really, as far as getting a second opinion or bringing the car back home, so I am just going to have them fix them.
I don't really understand why BOTH fuel pumps would simultaneously go bad, but I don't have any reason to disbelieve the dealership. Are the two high-pressure fuel pumps redundant? Is it possible that the first one might have started failing a while ago, but I didn't have noticeable problems until the second one also failed? Do you think this is a common problem?
I like this car a lot, but I wonder if you guys think I will be paying $3000 for repairs very often, since I can't fix the car myself?
Do you guys think that a 2011 XJ L Supercharged is likely to give me a lot of trouble going forward, or are they pretty reliable based on your own experience and what you have seen on the forum? It only has about 64,000 miles. I will read some other forum posts and see if i can glean something there too, but I wanted to ask your opinion on the fuel pumps issue and the general reputation of the XJL supercharged as it gets a little older. Is the water pump something that has to be preventively replaced too, and what about the "plastic pipes" and the coolant leak that melts the engine? Do those plastic pipes have to be preventively replaced on the XJ? Forgive me for asking so many questions, i maybe did not know enough about these cars before I bought one, and now I have a lot of catching up to do. Thank you !

 

Yes the car will be a money pit unless you can DIY the repairs.
This was your first lesson it won't be the last.
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Nahla, like clubairth1 said, this is the first, it won't be the last. As for cost, yes, the jag is going to cost you a little more, but getting a basic car is not going to be much cheaper. Finding a good independent mechanic is going to be time/money well spent. Going to be cheaper than the dealership and they will tend to work with you, especially if you give them repeat business.

As for the water pump, I wouldn't say that it needs to be done preventatively, but it is something that you want to pay attention to. If the car starts to overheat, don't keep driving it (unless you are in a bad situation then drive till you are in a safe spot). When you leak your parking spot, see if you are leaving any fluids behind. You do those two things and you should be fine and be able to prepare for anything that comes your way.

 

Thanks very much, clubairth1 and Thermo... really appreciate your insight. I hope I can find a mechanic :-) Do you think the car will alert in time if it is starting to overheat? I read on another thread (about a different kind of Jag or maybe it was a range rover) that the overheating and wrecking the engine happens suddenly, and the car doesn't give warning They were talking about plastic coolant pipes in the 5.0 engine that need to be preventively replaced--do our cars have those plastic pipes too? Let me see if i can find the thread...

 

Adding on to my previous reply above:
Here it is, the other thread, called "ticking time bomb!" Does this apply to our cars? I gather not, since Thermo didn't mention it in his post above, but I thought I'd ask as it will be one less worry on my mind :-)
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...e-bomb-214379/

 

Nahla, yes, our cars have the plastic piping. Is it a ticking time bomb, sure if your car is 10+ years old. Even then, they tend to give warnings before it is a major problem. When I had issues, the water pump started leaking and gave me tons of time to get it looked at. So, I would not worry about it. I am sure that there are exceptions to this rule. BUt, I would say that 99 out of a 100 people have lots of warning. This is where checking your overflow bottle when you fill up with gas is a good idea.

 

i posted elswhere in the forum . . . . i have an AUTEL MAXIDAS they go for about 1,0000 almost anywhere online and can get you maximum vehicle parameters on all foreign cars its the best bang for your buck.

well im looking for fuel pressure sensor parameters high and low so i can start diagnosing this thing im also worki g with a p0087 code but it only seems to be during cranking. look for my post in the forums.

its titled fuel pressure parameters 2012 xjl

 

Post back what fuel pressure you are seeing.
I am still trying to get a basic understanding of what the car normally runs at.
With my 2014 XJR I have several OBD interfaces and using my tablet I see from 800-1000 psi at idle and up to about 1500-1800 psi when running hard.
I have seen number posted of 2000+ psi but I have never seen it that high on my car yet?

My other car (2013 Lincoln MKS ECOBOOST) is also DI and they have up-rated high pressure fuel pumps so you don't start loosing fuel pressure as the car makes more and more power.
But there are tons more mods for that drive train too (3.5L twin Turbo,DI, 365HP and 350 TQ stock).
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