On my 2015 XJL, needed to yet again replace leak detection pump (mounts to charcoal canister). The connector had corroded, one wire had dislodged - time for a new connector. It's Bosch pump also used by BMW and those guys seem to have sources for the connector. If someone has an idea on what/how/tools needed to perform butt connections with minimal tool access then that's an answer too!
But without that maybe I can make life easier by finding where that connector wiring goes so I can find a more accessible location in the harness to splice in a new connector and run my own wiring from there to the pump.
The pump connector harness is mounted and there appears to be no slack and it seems to head towards the left of the car.
I was able to remove the pump without lowering the IRS and I think <hope> I can get the hoses back when I reinstall.
But accessing to splice at the original connector location using the typical wiring / crimping tools I probably impossible unless I lowered the rear end (IRS)
Perhaps that is less scary that I am thinking it is? I did see on the forum someone has gained clear access by lowering not removing the IRS but alas that was not described - I have access to a lift and transmission jackstands - any advice on how to safely lower the IRS would also be greatly appreciated as that may be my only hope here.
Can't help but can you post some pictures how you got it out? That repair has always been drop the rear sub-frame level of work BUT if you can remove it without all that it would be a great improvement!
Can you get the entire assembly out or just the pump?
On my 2014 XJR even on my lift it's hard to see that assembly!
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Hi
I mean if your wiring harmness is in too tight spot to access with crimping tool for a new pin for a wire, you still might have enough room to join two wires together with self soldering joints?
Just take some suitable loose wire and crimp needed pin to it. Then connect that wire to the wiring harmness with self soldering joint. In most cases there are space for hot air gun or hot air solder. Voilá. You have new pin with just some extra lenght of wire.
Check these:
I did not lower the IRS for removal because I do not know how to do that nor have I found a procedure any ideas?
Looking up under the pump you can access the 3 screws that attach it to the canister. There is a gap in the IRS structure on the left side that allows grabbing the pump, with one hand. I was able remove one hose that is simple slip in over a minimal barb. The other hose has elbow with a connector that in theory one could squeeze to disconnect but I don't have the grip strength, the barb end did wiggle free relatively easily which I may regret... For sure will need to send a camera up to reconnoiter nothing is visible.
Varsara I recently found those solder sleeves myself and have been impressed with how well they work. Solder inside where it needs to be AND adhesive that melts over the connector too. Then covered in 3-1 heat shrink tubing. Only downside is they are stiff and don't bend after install. So in real tight places I have had to use the old fashion twist wires then solder them then heat shrink some tubing over the joint.
thom_87XJSC hope you will post some pictures as you are making progress. Any chance you could post some pictures of how you got up in there?
Do you have a shop manual? I have several but they are huge and terrible. I mean like 8000 pages of stuff!
Let me know and I will up load my copies somewhere so you can get them. Too big for the forum unfortunately.
I did some searching and here are a few things that might help?
Attached are the pages about the read diff removal. This is all I could find in the workshop manual.
General layout of the tank and the EVAP stuff above the rear diff.
Varsara I recently found those solder sleeves myself and have been impressed with how well they work..
Hi Clubairth. These are handy. Used these in volumes at the end of -90:s when i work with traffic- / highway control systems. They were expensive back then, but saved itself in work hours.
Hi Clubairth -thank you for the pdf and diagram! I will post pictures when I get the car back up on the lift. Its a shared space thing so I can only take up the lift for a day max.
I got the recommended connectors on order. I think I'm going to take this in two steps - get it on the lift see if I can, without lowering the rear diff make the connections and make a nice long extension to the harness so I can test the pump just out of curiosity when I get the car back on the ground, Unless of course things go well.
I've seen a couple of videos and a post on the forum here showing accessing the pump by lowering but not removing the rear diff. I sure would love to hear some personal experience about this approach. Maybe I am overthinking it and I should just lower it, make it easy and get the job done
As I was telling my collogues about this you just have to go with confidence, Jaguars can sense fear
Hi all,
Well I achieved success (codes cleared and I got my inspection sticker!) - but the job is not 100% completed - more about that in a second.
I did get the pump back connected to the canister without lowering the rear end. Did I save any time? I highly doubt it but the lift is a shared space, and this is my wife's transportation (mine is an 87 XJS-C - two Jags in the garage = winning at life). So do no harm was the order of the day and I just did not feel comfortable trying to lower the rear end.
I think that without a lift this approach may be impossible given the way your arms need to extend into I'll call them crevasses created by the rear suspension / rear end "stuff".
Removal:
The picture below is your access to get the pump out and back in. Right arm goes through here, left arm can reach around (hard to describe but when its up on a lift it would make sense sort of - I had to "relearn" where my arms can go many times - but I'm also a slow mechanical learner.
I don't have very strong grip strength (too many keyboard miles). You can reach the wire harness connector and the hose release clamp I describe below through this access. There is also a long hose that snakes along the canister that I think brings air into the pump. This hose slips over a barb on the pump and somehow it wasn't welded to the pump like normal hoses and it just pulled off.
But as you can see I was not able to operate the disconnect clamp (its an elbow - sorry didn't take a picture of that). You can see where that elbow/clamp assembly goes into the canister here - it has a rubber grommet that goes over a barb and jams into that hole. Basically I grabbed and pulled and loose it came!
If your connector is bad - which is highly possible since what happens is water gets up here, into the pump and turns it to rust.
I couldn't source a Jag connector - but this pump is used on lots of BMW's and evidently Mini Coopers - I found a connector from a mini on ebay. The colors are different however ( I did note that if anyone is interested). Stripping the wires was a scary operation because you do not get many chances at this operation as you can see below. For the photo, I placed the wire stripper so you can see how little wire there is to work with on the original harness. But this style stripper worked great - I practiced the operation on scrap wire many times to get the feel of it. No chance really I think of getting a crimper in there so MANY THANKS for the link to the heat shrink w/solder connectors! I stripped both ends a bit long, did a twist splice and then jammed a heat gun in just so to shrink. The picture looks like there's more room that there really is.
I didn't touch on the pump mounting and I couldn't get a good picture of this but you can look straight up and see three screws that mount the pump to the canister. A really long philips with strong magnetized end gets at them. Refitting the pump would have been MUCH easier if I hadn't yanked the elbow out of the canister - my suggestion Do not do that! Because getting the screws lined back up requires the grommet/barb to be fully seated in the canister and that takes considerable force applied through a difficult access even with some lube. I ended up using a fid approach( longer wood screws) + bending the mounting bracket down to wedge. It was not pretty and I ran out of time. So right now I have two normal screws and one sticking out brass wood screw. And I didn't get that long hose connected either. But thankfully that didn't cause a code!
When I get the job properly completed, I'll take final pictures so you can see the access to the mounting screws etc.
