All. I just picked up a 95 XJ12 that was sitting since 2016. It looked like it sat out in the elements for all this time and has a fair amount of moss growing on the lower section of the car, although the interior is clean. Unfortunately the gas tank is full of water as the cap failed completely. I syphoned what I could out and removed the fuses to verify that the car will crank and it did.

So how much of a PITA is it to get the tank out? - I replaced the pumps on my 6L XJS and it was a huge b*ll ache. I'm assuming that there are two pumps in this one also

 

There are two pumps. It was a pain in the ***, comparable to an XJS . The pumps are in a “cell” and the manuals all imply you’d replace the entire cell, but in reality you just replace the pump inside it. There are fuel lines under the car, which connect to the tank from the bottom. They are of course a “quick connect” style that you will be fiddling with.

You can get a manual here:

https://jaguarforumsuk.com/wp-conten...ice-Manual.pdf

 

OK so the same as the 6L XJS with the in tank fuel pumps. I wonder if there's a way to rig a jerry can to see if I can make the car run before going there? It would be a complete waste of time and money if the engine is bad.

 

I bought a non runner XJ12 too, $900 lottery ticket. Previous owner said the fuel pumps were bad, so I bought the absolute cheapest pumps I could find and gave it a shot. They were like $20 each off Rock Auto. I’ve screwed around with lots of Jaguars so this recollection might not be perfect…. But I think I disconnected the pipes underneath, and pulled the tank out just far enough to reach in through the flange on top to replace the pumps.

Wouldn’t you know it the car started immediately after reassembly and those two dirty cheap pumps are still running. Turned out to need brake rotors and pads all around but they were cheap off Rock Auto too.

Now it needs a suspension. Been off the road a couple years while I screw with other stuff but it started just fine this spring when I moved it outside.

Good cars. Hard to wreck the engine.

 

The fuel tank set up and hoses are the same and covered in the X300 section for the inline 6

There is a short cut to not removing the tank

In the process of abandoning the vehicle they may have drawn water laden fuel into the fuel rail attached to the injectors causing rust to form in the fuel rail and trapped by the basket filters on the inlet side of the injectors

These basket filters can be cleaned or replaced

The fuel pressure is in the neiborhood of 43 PSI

You can piggy back another car that is not started but fuel pump relay jumpered ( use blade type wire connectors )

Your V12 engine regulation manual coming

There is a fuel filling well water drain line you want to clear

801S TITLE (jagrepair.com)

See page 60 for fuel tank plumbing

Your V12 starts on page 195 . ensure you have a Denso engine ECU fwd of the right front door hinge under a small panel

 

Maybe the pumps still work, or at least one of them? You only need one to run the engine. The car will test the secondary pump for 3 seconds when you turn the ignition on. You will be able to hear it hum. Crank engages the primary fuel pump.

Why not just purge it? Disconnect the fuel line at the left side fuel rail, jump the relay and pump for a while into a container. Add more fuel and some "water eliminator" and keep pumping. Then reconnect the left side rail and pump it through the right side rail from the pressure regulator to clear the rail. Then start the engine. It should be able to sputter through and clear any remaining contamination.

Don't replace the pumps (yet) unless they both are dead.

 

That's actually a pretty good idea. I'll just need to make a hydraulic hose long enough to run from one fuel rail to another. Thanks and thank you for the manual.

 

xjs is easy as pie the clips are right on the lines

x300 is harder because of the spring lock you need to reach up there and ram the release tool. after thats done undo the straps and good to go