I took my '08 Vanden Plas out of my unheated (Nova Scotia) garage for the first time in four months and after driving about a block I had the ABS fault, DSC unavailable, Cruise Control unavailable light up on the dash. Code's are C0039 "rear right tone wheel", and C003A "rear right wheel speed sensor". Today I took the rear wheels off, cleaned off the reluctor/ABS rings (there was lots of rust on the teeth but I couldn't see any signs of any crack), and I replaced the ABS sensors with new ones. I cleared the codes and took it out for a drive, and again after about a block the trio of faults came back up on the dash and the same codes that I had cleared were back. Trying to get to the root of the problem I will replace the four year old battery (I learned the hard way a few years ago that ample cranking power doesn't equal sufficient power for all the electronic modules to be happy). If that doesn't work I can source replacement ABS rings from a firm in England (Jaguar no longer makes nor stocks them), but I'm not looking forward to the labour involved. Thinking that the rust/corrosion on the ABS rings may have caused them to swell, meaning the ABS sensors are sitting too close to the rings, has anyone had luck using an 8mm washer on the ABS sensor bolt to act as a bit of a 'spacer' - making the fault disappear? Any other suggestions are most welcome.

 

From Robert rawle I got a jaguar xjr 4.2 v8 supercharged 400brake 2005 I had the same problem done exactly what you did I found out behind the right hand drive UK Britain side behind the driver side lights you got the earth cables they corrode the single one goes on bolt snaps but plenty of wd40 or any release oil on then leave then try to take the earth cable nut of 99% it will snap don't worry just drill a new hole clean the turminals and make a good earth done that worked perfectly remember to have your radio code handy if you disconnect the battery other WIZE you will have to remove the centre console to get your serial number to get the code the earth bolt is the same as left hand drive cars

 

The signal circuit is the code problem. Did you use a high quality cleaner on the connector? Signal wire short somewhere? Check signal wire on connector for short to ground or B+.

 

UPDATE:
I inspected and cleaned the earth/ground in the engine compartment (without breaking the post!), inspected the wheel speed sensor wiring for chaffing, cleaned the right rear wheel sensor connector with electric contact cleaner (although it looked clean, dry, and corrosion free), used a wire brush and brake cleaner on the tone/reluctor ring (it now looks new and isn't missing any teeth), and even removed the back seat (which cost me a fingernail - who designed those release mechanisms?). There was no sign of water ingress under the seat and connector FP6 was clean, dry, and corrosion free. When I cleared the codes and took the car for a drive the warning lights came back on when I got up to 15 mph. The odd thing is that the ABS actually work - I slammed the brakes on at speed on a wet road and they did their thing). If I plug my code reader in, migrate to right rear wheel speed sensor live data stream and go for a drive, the live data stream from the sensor accurately tells me the revolution of the axle and the mph I'm travelling so the sensor (which was just installed a few weeks ago) seems to be actually working and sending the correct signal. At this point I'm reluctantly going to hand it off to my Jaguar Dealer tomorrow to see if they can get to the bottom of it. I'll post an update when I get it back (unless their bill gives me a heart attack).

 

Waddyyah mean "unless?"

Dibs on your tools?

 

It sounds like an electronic 'funny'

Try a hard reset-remove both battery cables and touch together
for a few mins.
You may need the radio code and to reset the windows
I suggest that you live with it for a while if you can't clear it and don't surrender to the dealer.
You have done huge amount of work to find a fault which does not exist.

 

When I picked up my car today all the Jaguar Dealership had done was scan for codes and came up with exactly the same codes my scanner shows. The service advisor told me that based on the C0039 "rear right tone wheel" code I would need a new rear right axle (since they can't source the reluctor/tone ring) and that the half axle alone would be $2,700 plus labour. I've found a rear right axle (complete with a decent looking tone ring, speed sensor, and even the entire wheel hub) from a salvage yard's '08 Vanden Plas for $250, so when I find time I'll replace the axle and see if the new tone ring makes the fault magically disappear. I'm not holding my breath though, and may end up living with the warning lights that don't point to an actual fault. The "electrical" funnies on these cars (this is my third XJ8) come and go. I have a warning light and code for Secondary Air Injection Insufficient Flow come on twice a year. I took it seriously at first and went to all the effort of removing and bench testing the secondary air injection pump and replacing all the tubing, only to find that nothing was actually wrong, and clearing the code and CEL makes it go away for six months at a time. On my previous XJ8 I had the same issue with the Electronic Park Brake. After getting the warning light and took EPB off, bench tested it, reinstalled it and all the cables, and the light went out!

 

"Electrical funny" indeed.

Hadn't expected a motorcar to be more susceptible to dementia and Alzheimers than the driver, but there we have it.

CRC, 3M, and Ideal brands of non-flamma and flamma electrical contact cleaners have at least delayed the decline.

Next step is antibiotics? Cats are susceptible to a brain parasite, are they not?

"Not your first rodeo", agree the whole half-shaft & hub swap if you must, but I would FIRST "waste" the coin on one more, if not TWO more.. sensors and a sharp look at upstream wiring before I'd start. Lest you do all the dirty work - then discover it has not changed a thing.. the old reluctor no more at fault then the replacement..

Wouldn't have thought a body NEEDED a Quad-trace digital oscilloscope to service a motorcar, I've just always had 'scopes for OTHER stuff. But they are cheap, handy to have, and could rat-out a rotation sensor issue in a Nude Pork Minute. ("New York Minute" having been de-rated from "instantly" to "sometime, maybe, never", whilst greased pigs are still as fast they ever were..)

 

Was it a waste of time and money going to the dealer?

It's actually worse than that because they tell misleading info and lies!

 

LOL!!!

"Misleading?", "Lies?" Perish the very thought!

I've "sojourned in" and had an interest, "from a distance" in, Australia for long enough (late 1960's - as brothers in arms) that dreadful as ours are, USA, there's no safe bet, either direction as to which of our beloved collections of "Plotty-ticians" would lose the most in a down and dirty brothel-fight!

Oz always did "punch above their weight" so to speak! Even when it was some OTHER bugger's bad idea..



Motorcar Dealers are but rank amateurs, by comparison.

Few can even tell the difference between a Brothel and a Hoorhouse, nor which it is they run as part of their Sales and Service Departments, so long as the clientele end well-and-truly shagged.

.. or so the grownups claim?

 

very common problem in salt driven cars

you can buy reluctor wheels for them go on uk ebay

 

Sourcing the reluctor as a seperate part is the easy "part".

Can't just sitckey-tape a new one into place, though.

Try another sensor, first.

 

I would definitely try cleaning the right rear tone wheel again. Use a wire wheel chucked onto a drill motor if you have to, but get that tone wheel shiningly clean (especially on the teeth). Actually, I think that would be the source of the problem, and not the sensor.

Actually, the Jag service technician was accurate in his diagnosis, but he's doing it the hard way in fixing the problem (and the most costlier to be sure).

 

Why? Planning to introduce it to your best bud for a dinner-date, and he happens to be a Dentist? What if the cute tone ring with the shiney smile is cracked?



They spend their whole working lives with the presence of a fine surface rust. Not boulders, no, but look at other ones around you that are working just fine. If a bright finish was required? We'd ALL be walking.

Hall Effect is Magnetic.

Not Optical.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hall_effect_sensor

"Shiney" appearance isn't what matters.

Expected Magnetic properties and as-designed sensor sensitivity, position, and spacing, rather.

Hall effect is exceedingly reliable. Easily made durable. Can outlast the motorcar, even.
Also rather weak. The upstream connectors, wire, and the circuit at the other end that "listens" to each sensor, individually, all have be functioning as expected, too.

Hall effect is only ONE way to "see" a magnetic influence.
Eliminate the fast, cheap, and easy possibilities first.


Here's another - from ATE - with a thin tab that slides out:


ATE knows brake systems as well as anyone, but there are cheaper ones out there. Or buy just the film and cut your own to fit. Under ten bucks, US.

Change the half-shaft only if you must. It is not a "trivial exercise", so best to "card" the tone ring on that one before installing it as well?

Cheap enough process, yah?

 

Well, whatever the OP has to do to remove the layer of rust which is coating the tone ring teeth as the sensor sure isn't going to work well as it stands.

 

Not if it happens to have an invisible crack, no. That's what the "card" can find.

Otherwise, Hall effect was adopted because it was VERY indifferent to rust, rot, and road damage.

As said, "not boulders" but look around. More of the tone wheels you see will be butt-ugly and still working just fine than clean-looking ones that look fine but are no longer working.

They have to live in a nasty environment. Most do that rather long and well with near-as-dammit zero attention. If all-else was as durable? They could weld the hood shut at the factory.

"card it" or "keep guessing" until time and circumstance show you which approach is the more expensive.

If that mechanic, previously mentioned, has ALREADY carded the tone-wheel and pronounced it a turd?

What would be the point of polishing a defective turd?

That doesn't seem to work, even on the big wheels in Politics, let alone motorcars!

 

FINAL UPDATE
Picked up my '08 Vanden Plas from the Dealer today, and the new rear right half shaft (axle) did the trick. All the warning lights are gone and the ABS/Cruise/DTS are working fine again. The mechanic noted that the tone ring on the old axle was 'a bit rusty', but he couldn't find any cracks or missing teeth. From the codes it was throwing I thought the problem was with the speed sensor circuit and that the cure would lie in following the wiring, but apparently it was a bad tone ring. Replacing the entire half shaft just to replace the tone ring was expensive, but I suppose we don't keep these cars because they are economical to service.

 

"Just sayin'" but you are under a 100 Km from the "missing gravity" phenom, and not a great deal further from the geomagnetic anomaly - not Justin's. Earth's:

https://academic.oup.com/gji/article/81/1/33/676381

I still maintain that even though we may have to a "work harder" (and smarter) to keep our costs in-line, "ordinary" motorcars with less "soul" to 'em have cost me as much ... or more.. then hauled any invested renewal value off to the rust-crusher-grave as their steel 'unibody' went to rotted bits.

Buy JLR brand-new, feel the pain. Buy at low-new-value retention prices? Admit the pain of renewals still averages-out to a right-decent ride for the total spend, amortized - nothing "good" ever being "free" but "best wishes."

Good on yah for closing the loop.

And "Best wishes", going-forward.