Man so sorry to hear that!
I was dreading removing the booster so studied things for a good while before I got at it. Again no help as I have not done that and it did look like a huge project!

Those wiper arms are sometimes very tight. I use this little guy to pull them with no damage. $12 for the 2 pullers.




The small version was spaced wrong for my Jaguar wipers so I used the larger puller.

What I do and if you read my thread you will see I got bit on this. The motor should be test powered up BEFORE installation! I started putting the new motor in and about half way thru I thought to check it. Yep it was a bad unit right out of the box!

I power the wiper motor up and then shut it down using the cars wiper switch before it's installed. This puts the motor in the park position. Now when everything is back in place. Attach the wiper arms so they lay the way you want them to at the bottom of the windshield. The arm's are not keyed and can be installed in any position. Trivia here-New wipers have no splines on the inside hole. When you install new arms as you tighten the nuts down the arm is driven into the splines of the wiper pivots.

I am picky about this as I try to minimize the amount of the wiper that's visible from the drivers seat. Probably does not matter but I do it just the same.
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Yeah I was somehow missed that I might need a puller for the splines, gives me more work to learn from though haha!

Thanks for these details, I definitely was planning to power up the replacement motor that I serviced while it's still out and sounds like I don't have to worry as much about the wipers. I'll make sure to cycle it before the arms go on.

Like you I prefer to keep them low and out of sight which I usually find their default position are but recently they've started creeping up, almost like the motor knew I was planning on replacing it.

I'm in uncharted territory at this point though as the brake booster won't come off no matter how much prying is done, the only thing I can think of doing at this point is wrapping a chain or strap around it to try yanking it out. I'll have to figure that out this weekend.

 

I would not yank on it with a chain or get rough with things until you know how they go together. Any chance those pivots can be removed from the large Aluminum bracket with it in place? A long shot but you never know.

Can you get the pivots separately or will you need to get a complete used unit? If not I would go ahead and get the used assembly coming as then you can pick and choose which parts you want to use. Plus you can work on that assembly when it's on the bench instead of it being stuck in the car.

Do you have the shop manual? I think that will be mandatory with what your working on? I have the 2004 and up version but it's 60 GB and way too big for this forum.
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You have been given instructions on post #18.

Removing The Wiper Motor

 

Thanks Gents, I do have a replacement wiper assembly on hand and it seems the spline stem is inserted from the bottom which is inaccessible with the assembly in the car.

I do have the workshop manual unless there's a separate one, it simply details removing the 4 nuts and the plastic retaining one so I think it's hung up on the firewall as it did come forward an inch at the top but is hung up on the bottom.

 

I was thinking to see how the pivots are retained in the bracket but that's probably not gonna work. Hoping they had retainer rings that could be removed.
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Any input on where to acquire a new retainer ring, & the size?
Mine was made unusable, being removed.

 

The arms wipe! I've had astronomical luck thus far in not having any hoses blow or being able to replace the headlights without removing the bumper and boy did that luck come due with interest for this one..

We were not able to fully remove the booster but the 32in. pry bar that I bought at Harbor Freight sure did convince it to bow before me. Below I'll try to summarize for anyone feeling masochistic enough to tackle this later.

Specialty Items Needed:

• Small Pitman Arm Puller or Wiper Arm Puller (highly recommended, I broke the wiper stem while trying to pry one arm off)
• Long Prybar (24-30in)
• Torx T50 Bit
• Multi-purpose synthetic grease or white lithium grease
• Electrical contact cleaner
• 220 Grit sandpaper
• Brake Fluid, 3/8in hose, turkey baster, and other related items for draining

Wiper Motor & Assembly Removal

1. Use tape to mark where the wiper blades sit on the windshield. I also added arrows on the tape to mark which side they were on.
2. Remove the round plastic covers at the base of the wipers and remove the nuts underneath.
3. Use the pitarm puller to pull the wiper arms up, don't risk damaging the stems by forcing it up with a wrench or you're gonna have a bad time.. I used the smallest puller in a kit I borrowed:
   
4. Remove the covers for the cabinet filter and brake/washer fluid compartments before getting the cowl off.
5. You can then start popping off the cowl by pushing upward from the filter side. Note that there is a small hose you'll need to disconnect before the cowl comes away. Take your time to avoid breaking it especially near the fins:
   
6. Use the T50 bit to remove the three support brackets:
   
7. The firewall behind the engine is removable and will also have plastic push in screws to remove. I definitely needed it out of the way to get the linkage out.
8. Pull on the electrical connector that's attached to the linkage, you should find a side that you can push a flathead into to release the connectors as you pull.
9. Remove the 4 bolts holding the linkage and curse the engineer that didn't leave you 3 inches of room to spare to end this process here.
10. Head over to the driver's seat (assuming left hand drive) and remove the felt cover that's above the brake pedal (should only have two plastic push in screws). Follow the brake pedal up towards the engine bay to locate the booster.
11. Remove the 4 surrounding nuts around the booster + the white retaining nut on the stem. Note in this image the booster boot was pulled back for visibility:
    
    
12. After scheduling with your chiropractor, head back to the engine bay and disconnect the booster vacuum line. You should now be easily able to move the booster forward (unless you're me) but you'll likely lack room because of the brake reservoir.
13. Drain the master cylinder disconnect the brake lines, I put a latex glove over them after to prevent debris or moisture from getting in.
14. If you're like me, no amount poking, pulling, prodding, or praying, will get the booster to move up enough to get the linkage out.
15. (Hard Mode Only) If you needed the 32in pry bar, brace it against the thicker of the two plates while slightly pushing downward as you pry to prevent the bar from slipping out upwards on you:
    
16. If it gives you trouble, take several breaks or shop at the dealership while the car sits in your driveway daring you to give up.
17. With the wiper mechanism out, take a picture of how the motor is connected to the wiper arm. It seems that for our car is forgiving in this instance but we're already working with enough challenges so best to put it back together as it was.
18. You can now remove the large motor nut along with the 3 smaller mounting bolts.
19. Time to refurbish a $20 part like a true third world laboring mechanic.
    

Wiper Motor Refurbishing

1. Listen to several videos in Bengali while your wife looks at you like you're an idiot or follow these steps loosely.
2. Drill through the rivets slowly and locate small screws to replace them later.
3. You'll now have the blue disc with the copper prongs underneath exposed on one side and white plastic gear on the other:
   
4. Start picking at this satanic, pentagram looking thing. Best I could find was a small flathead to repeatedly pick at a spot until I could bend it. Once bent, I used pliers to pull it off:
   
5. Clean up all the grease, lightly sand the copper arms, then douse in contact cleaner. It should look like this in the end:
   
   
6. Make sure to bend the coppers arms slightly upward so they make better contact with the blue disc that'll be pressed against them.
7. Add a very light coat of grease mainly to the teeth of the plastic wheel and where it meets that motor stem. The contacts are said to supposed to remain clean, I stubbornly added just a touch of grease along the copper wheel to help lubricate.
8. A quick above and beyond steps is to remove the black motor housing, you'll feel some strange resistance even once the screws are off because of the magnetic housing.
9. Take a piece of very fine grit sandpaper (220 grit) and cut a small enough piece to run along the surface where the brushes make contact. See this example below:
   
10. Hold the paper in place as you spin the commutator, that'll clean up the carbon build up as the base of the shaft.
11. Extra points if you can fit something thin enough to clean the razor thin gaps that run up the base of the commutator.
12. Hose it down with contact cleaner and let it dry for a minute before reassembly.
13. After reassembly, connect just the motor to your car, turn the key two clicks into the ignition and activate the wiper switch. You want the wiper motor to turn on, rotate, then shut off the wiper switch while the wiper motor is stopped. This ensures you have the motor in the starting position ready for the wiper to be reinstalled at their resting position.
14. Use your picture to reattach the motor to the wiper linkage as it was.
15. Put it all back together and feel the gleeful excitement to watch your wipers smoothly come to life. In the end you only spent half as much time as small engine rebuild.
    

 

Had to do some digging but I found that they're called Internal Star Lock Washers.

 

Friend of mine that has a chain saw shop, had a small snap ring on hand that fit.
Instead of an internal star lock washer.
Hell of a name for an unserviceable P O S part.
At least i learned the proper name of the part, thanks.