Clicking at start up
Started hearing a clicking noise from front right on start up.
Only on first start up after setting overnight, or for several hours.
Stops after four or five clicks, car runs fine.
Been turning the drivers air bag light code B2293 on occasion.
Turn it off it might stay off for a few hundred miles or come back on in no time, connected?
Been thinking cleaning connections might fix things, but E Check first so the battery can be disconnected, otherwise car will fail the test.
Anyone else have a similar experience?
Only on first start up after setting overnight, or for several hours.
Stops after four or five clicks, car runs fine.
Been turning the drivers air bag light code B2293 on occasion.
Turn it off it might stay off for a few hundred miles or come back on in no time, connected?
Been thinking cleaning connections might fix things, but E Check first so the battery can be disconnected, otherwise car will fail the test.
Anyone else have a similar experience?
Without knowing what it is that is ticking it is hard to say if it is related. How long has it been since an engine oil service and what is the cold oil level? You can pull fuses and clean connections without disconnecting the battery and you can clean grounds all over the place without touching the battery. I would check the airbag grounds for sure. I do not know the locations but they may be referenced somewhere on the forum. At least that code should not cause any test failure since it is not a smog type (P) code.
Oil, motor, trans, filters for both changed, car runs, & starts like normal, after its first start up of the day.
Just had it E Checked, no issues there.
No idea at this point.
No messages, or lights, but the drivers air bag which needs the clock spring looked into, hopefully cleaning is all it needs.
Just had it E Checked, no issues there.
No idea at this point.
No messages, or lights, but the drivers air bag which needs the clock spring looked into, hopefully cleaning is all it needs.
Friend of mine that's a mechanic, is supposed to stop by after work,will be looking under the hood while i start it.
Whatever it is, its getting progressively louder, not a good sign.
Curious, but not unhappy, about it not throwing a check engine light, and passing the emissions test.
Whatever it is, its getting progressively louder, not a good sign.

Curious, but not unhappy, about it not throwing a check engine light, and passing the emissions test.
Mr Wingrider,
I get loud clicks whenever I start up. Sometimes I think it is the VVT's, sometimes the EGR Valve, sometimes the PCV; sometimes I think it is simply the Thermoplastic Cam Cover expanding at a slightly different rate to the aluminium cylinder head? In point of fact, some of the clicks I get are quite scary!
Never seems to make any difference?
I get loud clicks whenever I start up. Sometimes I think it is the VVT's, sometimes the EGR Valve, sometimes the PCV; sometimes I think it is simply the Thermoplastic Cam Cover expanding at a slightly different rate to the aluminium cylinder head? In point of fact, some of the clicks I get are quite scary!
Never seems to make any difference?
Last edited by EsRay; Dec 29, 2018 at 08:49 AM.
Well that's a bit of somewhat positive news, so to speak, but don't like the noise, & want it stopped.
Trying to work out just what type of gas heat to install in my garage, as of late.
Need a better way than my torpedo kerosene hater.
Works but smelly, noisy, as well as too expensive, plus things need to be moved around to allow the heat to disperse.
Standard type of furnace, with some movable type runs, or a single overhead type.
Both are expensive, and need to be vented.
Like the idea of heat from different areas, verses the over head, that takes no floor space, & cost less.
But all the heat in just one area is a big drawback, better than the torpedo type, but similar.
Need a warm place to work, too darn old for the cold work in the garage anymore.
My body hurts way too bad afterwards anymore, but still have to fix my stuff.
Trying to work out just what type of gas heat to install in my garage, as of late.
Need a better way than my torpedo kerosene hater.
Works but smelly, noisy, as well as too expensive, plus things need to be moved around to allow the heat to disperse.
Standard type of furnace, with some movable type runs, or a single overhead type.
Both are expensive, and need to be vented.
Like the idea of heat from different areas, verses the over head, that takes no floor space, & cost less.
But all the heat in just one area is a big drawback, better than the torpedo type, but similar.
Need a warm place to work, too darn old for the cold work in the garage anymore.
My body hurts way too bad afterwards anymore, but still have to fix my stuff.
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Just a thought, could the clicking be the A/C clutch having a bit of trouble kicking in on start up?, Although I seem to rememeber the A/C on these cars is an always on system, but it may be disconnected at start up to decrease the load on the starter.
Also as for the Airbag I have come across airbag faults where it's a bad wire under the seat where it's connected to the pre-tensioner on the seat belt buckle, things get put on the floor behind the seat and as the seat is moved back and forth, they catch the wiring and can cause a break, could even be the shifting of your own weight on the seat and a dodgy wire in there.
Ditto on the warm place to work, and the too darn old problem, I can get down on the floor, ok, it's called "falling", it's the getting back up that's the problem.
Also as for the Airbag I have come across airbag faults where it's a bad wire under the seat where it's connected to the pre-tensioner on the seat belt buckle, things get put on the floor behind the seat and as the seat is moved back and forth, they catch the wiring and can cause a break, could even be the shifting of your own weight on the seat and a dodgy wire in there.
Ditto on the warm place to work, and the too darn old problem, I can get down on the floor, ok, it's called "falling", it's the getting back up that's the problem.
Becoming louder sounding more & more mechanical, but it literally only lasts for a second or so.
The noise is something a bit different, than i have ever experienced in the past.
Friend who's a mechanic stopped over to look, said noise was from front of motor.
Was surprised at just how loud it was, and then gone, on a restart no noise at all.
Car runs like normal, just passed emissions test, after this noise started, so W T F????.
Guess it could be the air conditioner compressor, as its in the general area of the noise
Ordered a furnace for the garage, now have the gas line buried from outside the house to garage.
Another friend said he will give me a hand installing it.
May finally get things caught up, the heat drives me out in the summer,
With the cold affecting me more & more, spring, then fall is about only times its comfortable to work.
Too old, slow, and lazy to get er done then, hoping the heat will help me to catch up.
Haven't ridden my bikes in over two years, these Jaguars have taken my bike shop over.
They are all pushed into the rear of the garage, as out of the way as possible.
The noise is something a bit different, than i have ever experienced in the past.
Friend who's a mechanic stopped over to look, said noise was from front of motor.
Was surprised at just how loud it was, and then gone, on a restart no noise at all.
Car runs like normal, just passed emissions test, after this noise started, so W T F????.
Guess it could be the air conditioner compressor, as its in the general area of the noise
Ordered a furnace for the garage, now have the gas line buried from outside the house to garage.
Another friend said he will give me a hand installing it.
May finally get things caught up, the heat drives me out in the summer,
With the cold affecting me more & more, spring, then fall is about only times its comfortable to work.
Too old, slow, and lazy to get er done then, hoping the heat will help me to catch up.
Haven't ridden my bikes in over two years, these Jaguars have taken my bike shop over.
They are all pushed into the rear of the garage, as out of the way as possible.
Last edited by Wingrider; Dec 31, 2018 at 08:16 PM.
brian5
You may have hit it on the A C pump clutch.
I asked my mechanic friend about it.
Was told that it could be just that.
We both said from its location, a good chance that's the noise.
Not used to anything but quiet, conversation, or music, when in either one of these cars.
You may have hit it on the A C pump clutch.
I asked my mechanic friend about it.
Was told that it could be just that.
We both said from its location, a good chance that's the noise.
Not used to anything but quiet, conversation, or music, when in either one of these cars.
Just to add, the compressor on our cars is of variable capacity, and does not use a compressor clutch. There is an external solenoid that controls the compressor between 2% and 100% of operation. I'm not sure exactly where that is located. It could make a clicking noise, but not as loud as a compressor clutch would.
Dave
Dave
Only after letting go of the key does it happen, & then its over so fast (maybe good) you have no clue where to look.
Mechanic friend now is dealing with a car that has no spark.
Replaced crank sensor, car ran for two days, then all over again the same thing.
Hes not very happy at this point, had it towed home to fix it again.
Told him to call me if he needs another set of rides to chase parts to fix, or any help.
We both want to fix our own stuff, with as little help as necessary from anyone.
Thats why we help each other without much said, when called.
Mechanic friend now is dealing with a car that has no spark.
Replaced crank sensor, car ran for two days, then all over again the same thing.
Hes not very happy at this point, had it towed home to fix it again.
Told him to call me if he needs another set of rides to chase parts to fix, or any help.
We both want to fix our own stuff, with as little help as necessary from anyone.
Thats why we help each other without much said, when called.
Ok kids found the source of the noise, the idler bearing bolt, started to back out.
Tightened things back down, all's quiet again.
Now back to the drivers air bag light, B2293 code.
Start things up cold after clearing before shutting the motor off.
Drive to the highway and travel 150 miles or more, with no light.
But in town driving, it comes on rather quickly, and way more often than before.
Tightened things back down, all's quiet again.
Now back to the drivers air bag light, B2293 code.
Start things up cold after clearing before shutting the motor off.
Drive to the highway and travel 150 miles or more, with no light.
But in town driving, it comes on rather quickly, and way more often than before.
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