IMHO, accurately portrays the volume of work involved. As I was making my way through it, someone mentioned the timing chain cover. Hope I won't regret not having removed... However, still no sign of any oil leaks.

Carpe diem,
Steve S.

 

The IC already has a separate pump stock? How could it work otherwise?
He is just talking about installing a bigger IC pump which is common BUT do NOT be drawn into the idea this will somehow lead to a noticeable increase in power? It won't.

I know as I have added a larger IC and pump on my car but it's to delay or eliminate heat soak. Also be aware with the Eatom M112 in your car it's known in the after market as the Heaton blower. Because of the excessive heat it generates especially if you put a pulley on it. So cooling is very important and you really can't over cool a SC engine.

You can de-couple the cooling systems but they already are stock. The two system just share a common bleed and fill port. But we do have several guys doing big IC upgrades so that would be worth a look if your interested in upgrading?

Attached is a description of the SC cooling system for the 5.0L engine. Different than your but very similar in design.
.
.
.

 

No, I didn't check that. I think I've screwed up by not taking more time initially to try to exactly locate the leak. I suppose I assumed it was the valley hose as these cars are known for that problem. Nothing that I have removed so far looks like it is the culprit.

 

I'm stuck once again. I can't seem to get this false bulkhead out. I just can't figure out what's holding it in place. Also there are some really screwy metal fasteners that just push onto threaded studs. They only go one way and don't seem to come back off. How do you remove them without destroying them?

Do the hoses on the firewall have to be disconnected? I can't see them and can only feel them. I really dont want to disconnect them as I'm not sure I could re-connect them later.

Is it possible to do this job without removing the bulkhead? I was feeling pretty good about what I have done so far, but a feeling of unease is settling in. I think I've made a mistake tackling this, but there's no turning back at this point, I have to press on. I think this thing was designed by a real sadist.

The manual lists about 40 steps to remove the bulkhead and includes things like disconnecting fuel lines and A/C. I haven't heard anyone else mention that here. It also mentions a lot of parts that I don't know what it is referencing. The pictures done seem to match up with what I'm seeing either.

Sorry if I'm sounding negative, I'm just getting very frustrated.

 

Hi Mr White,
I feel your frustration! I had that as well. I wish I could give you some pictures of what I did, but my car is RHD, so the arrangements are slightly different. That said, the manual has a number of steps, and it covers all the variants, from the 3.0V6, the 2.7 diesel to the 4.2 NA and the 4.2 SC. If you do a search on the word 'supercharged', that word often appears before sections that cover the SC cars. What I did was print the whole section, and go through it carefully and cross out all the parts I knew didn't apply to my car (2008 SV8). I didn't evacuate the Aircon, as the pipes for it mounted to the bulkhead below the secondary plastic bulkhead.
The RHD cars have the heater hoses cross from right to left across the car (as always left and right as viewed from the driver's seat looking forward). The heater hoses come from the lower right side of the engiine bay and then move across the bulkhead. For LHD cars like yours, they only go a little way across then are fitted to the bulkhead. For RHD cars like mine, they go all the way across to the left side and are connected to the heater input stubs on the bulkhead.
I too was daunted by removing the heater hoses, which lead to me breaking some plastic hose parts as I heaved on the pipes. A very important tool is the remote hose clamp plier. This allows you to push the operating end onto a hose clamp that is buried behind other covers, and release it. It's essential for this job as there are a lot of hoses, and most of them are impossible to access without it.

Remote hose clamp tool

If you remove the heater hoses that mount to the bulkhead, you should be able to push them away from in front of the secondary bulkhead you want to remove. It is also necessary to take off the center bracket between where the fender braces were. Do you have two fender braces or four? Early cars had four, but the two inner ones were later deleted. The bracket the inner ones mounted to has to come off as the secondary bulkhead mounts to it so prevents its removal.
The screwy metal fasteners should be able to just pull off with the assistance of a trim tool with a forked end. You push the tool in behind it and push it up a few threads. Then you should be able to unscrew it. A bit of panel beating and you can use it again. My car had plastic expanding rivets that I had to pull out the center piece to unlock.
You do need to unclip the rigid vacuum hose from the throttle body to the brake booster. There is a joiner in the middle that must be squeezed to release it. It looks like there are places to squeeze, but it's a trap. You have to squeeze at 90 degrees to those.
There is also a wiring loom behind the throttle body that has a plastic cover mounted to a bracket on the engine. Remove the small nut securing it and pull it toward the front of the engine. That will give you more space to move the secondary bulkhead.
Have you looked carefully through the 'into the valley' legendary post (thanks so much to that poster!) from some years ago?
It was for a LHD car so may be useful. I made it into an MS Word doc that I will attach.
I'm sorry if you've heard all this before, I lose track of those who are going through this.
Keep at it. If I can do it, anyone can.

Pete M

 

Hi, Mr. White.

Pete M, Thomas S, & others similarly came to my rescue.
Those funny fastners just knockoff with a screw driver. If you find my thread on the subject, you will see I had all the questions you have except that I had found the busted hose when I removed the ICs.
If memory serves me, I only had to remove the 2 black soft heater hoses. The remote clamp remover is a must; once I became familiar with it, I was fascinated by it & was amazed by what it could do.
I, too, thought that I had to take things off that I didn't because I was reading about a different engine. I was so frustrated that I almost asked a young friend who heads up a significant part of AI for MSFT to task his AI tool with the job of writing a manual for what I was doing. He loves such challenges - he did a similar, but a bit more complex, project for teaching neurosurgeons! But, the wonderful guys on this forum saved the day!

My schedule is not my own today, but if I can get a few minutes, I will find my threads, very similar to yours, & send them along.

I would not fret over replacing the valley hose or any other hose for that matter. I should have photographed the hoses I removed before I tossed them. Many were on the verge of failing. Now that I have replaced them all, I have peace of mind...

Just drove her over 100 miles & won't mention at what speeds. I am so glad that, thanks to the help of the fellows on this forum, i persevered...

I still haven't replaced the wipers, the bottom cover, etc. Thankfully, we've had no rain in months & aren't expecting any. Hope to get back at it in a week or two.

Best,

Steve S

 

Mine is not supercharged, but I never had to remove that bulkhead that hangs over the back of the engine. OTOH, I did not remove any hoses from the firewall.

To get to the valley hose I removed the intake manifold by unbolting it, lifting it and pulling it forward as far as the electrical connectors on the rear allowed, and then I could reach those connectors to disconnect, and I got the manifold out of the way. I never disconnected any hoses from the firewall in my cooling system overhaul, just removed the manifold to get to the valley hose, which turned out to be the ONLY hose in my system that had an obvious ballooning, indicating that it was nearing the end of its life.

I don't know if this helps or reassures you at all, but the valley hose is in the worst environment thermally of any of the hoses, and you'll need to get the SC out to get to that hose. Personally, I would absolutely disregard what 04Xjrsteve said just above about not fretting over the valley hose. I don't recall what thread I got this picture from, but this is the hose under the SC. Apparently in different years it actually goes to different points...

 

Pete,

I typed out a response to you yesterday, but I must not have hit "post". The computer restarted over night for an update and my draft has disappeared, so I'll start over.

I do have a set of the specialty hose clamp pliers. I ordered them before I started the job. They are invaluable.

I have been using the google doc write up from 2014 that lays out all the steps for the valley hose job. it is very helpful, but the one setback to it is that it is rather vague. For example it will list a step as "remove plastic false bulkhead", but doesn't say how to do it. I have all of the Jag service manuals as PDF's that I downloaded from this site years ago. When I move on to each next step, I go back to the manuals and see what I can find about that step. So far, that has been working... Until this bulkhead step.

My car does have the twin shock tower braces on both sides, I have removed them all, along with the center bracket they mount to.

I figured out how to remove the strange press on fasteners. I used a long handled screwdriver with a small flat tip. Put it into one of the gap/slots in the fastener and twist them off.

I have removed all of the fasteners that I can see. It should be loose at this point, but it isn't. I have not yet disconnected the hoses as I was waiting to do those last. The hoses that I can see are on the left in the below photo, just above the big wiring harness. I can understand why the plastic bulkhead wouldn't be loose on the passenger side if the hoses are keeping it in place, but it should be completely loose on the drivers side. I've removed all the fasteners, but it is solidly held in place. It's not budging at all, it's like it's screwed in place from behind. At this point, I think im going to go to harbor freight to buy some trim removal tools and try prying it out.






I don't know yet how I will get to anything behind this massive electrical harness, but that is a problem for future me. (once I figure out this bulkhead)

 

I removed the insulation from the bulkhead. Can't recall if this revealed more fastenings.

 

Ding, Ding, Ding, Ding.. Winner Winner!!!!!

I had really been trying to keep the car as original as possible. But with all this tugging and pulling the insulation was really starting to disintegrate. I finally decided to rip out the insulation and found about 5 more fasteners. I now have the bulkhead out.

 

Hi Mr White,
That's great news! You could probably glue the insulation back onto the bulkhead. The extra room really helps when removing the intake elbow and the EGR valve.
That bulkhead was one of the most difficult parts for me. I'm sure you will find the rest of the process straightforward.
NB, take lots of progress photos, it's amazing how quickly we forget how it went together.

Pete M

 

 

Mr. White,

sorry for being late with my answer, but I was away. I could have told you that for some strange reason Jaguar fixed the false bulkhead with two levels of fasteners, as you have already found out.

In any case, when you come to reassemble things you do not need to do it the same way. To simplify things in case I need to remove the false bulkhead again, I actually replaced the fasteners with some real nuts and washers, the threads where the fasteners are screwed on are standard ones and you can do this. Also, I did not do the "double fixing" anymore, and everything holds up very well.

Best regards,

Thomas

 

Hi Thomas,
You're looking well & it is great seeing your post! I thought that I had worn you out & you might not come back. Now that would be a great loss!

Mr. White,
While I haven't yet replaced the bulkhead, I have applied an insulation recommended by Chris on another thread. Although I haven't yet seen the results, by all appearances, it should be an improvement & I will be using nuts and washers to refasten the bulkhead as Thomas S. suggested. Make a mental note that when you do replace the plastic piece under the windshield wipers that you center it on the hole for the fastener right in the midpoint of the piece. I lined mine up from one end & now I will have to remove it & recenter by a quarter inch. Otherwise, I hope you're making headway.

Carpe diem,

Steve S.

 

Of course, I would have to remove the aforementioned piece before I can reattach the bulkhead anyway.

 

Hi Steve,

it takes more to wear me out, like the car of my girlfriend that almost did it...;-)

It's just that it is busy days right now and I am not always online.

Best regards,

Thomas

 

Guys, sorry for going silent for a few days. I've been very busy at work and haven't had time to touch the car since Saturday.

I have the throttle body out, so the next thing is the EGR. It's hidden below a bunch of wiring, so that should be fun. But... I feel as though there is light at the end of the tunnel. By the way, I did not have to disconnect any coolant hoses to get the plastic false bulkhead out. It is notched around the hoses.

I am going away for a few weeks, and had really hoped to have it all taken apart so that I can figure out what parts I need to order before I leave. Hopefully I can get this done in the next two days. I will of course then have the fun job of trying to put everything back together a month after taking it apart. I'll try to update tomorrow with my progress.

 

Long before handy digital cameras, phone or not were usable, I had adopted the tiny audio recorders to 'take notes' as I worked - similar to Coroners and other Forensics folk who usually had both hands too busy - or too badly soiled with blood, guts, and gore - to take written notes.

Telephone headset on a Sapper at work deactivating a landmine's anti-tamper goods worked well to give his successor a head start as to what NOT to do when he failed at it and the last thing as went through his mind was the vapourized remains of his ****, too.

"Talk to yerself" as you work. For the record. Come back after a long break (**** call can be enough to confuse, some days of late..) the record could save you as much grief as photos.

Having BOTH is good.

 

What a great idea!! With the tech we have now, you could easily rig a camera and light on a hat with a built in microphone. Say you worked 2 hours, and then editing it down to 15 minutes after cutting all of the profanity! A great comedy show for sure!!

 

Not new. And the profanity often carries the most crucial points of information..

An X350 isn't likely to blow yer **** to bits.. but have a care, under there...

Get TOO distracted, it can fall on yah .. or trap body parts in amongst the suspension bits.