I have removed both belts.

There is a very limited space between each of the tensioners & the pulley next to it. Am I correct in assuming that when replacing each belt, I should start by inserting the belt between the tight spot & on the tensioner first?

Also, it appears that the new SC belt is about an in longer than the one I removed. So, I will check on this; the parts house has the VIN on the car. Anyone ever have a similar issue? Was it difficult to find the right one? I used Rock for these.

I'm doing this from above & it looks like it is going to be a formidable job to get the engine belt on because of distances & clearances.

Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated & I will buy you a beer next time you're in Seattle.

Thanks & best,

Steve

 

When I did this I put the belt in place by sliding each belt edge first into the tight spots while I had plenty of slack.

The tensioner pulley was the last pulley to place the belt around while the tension was released.

I did not have an issue with the length of either belt. Both of which I purchased on Ebay.

I remember getting the air filter box out so that I could lever the tensioners easily and used a block of wood to keep the lever I was using in place with the tensioners "released".

 

Hey Steve,
You're going about things correctly...bit of a squeeze but simple the second time through...
There are a few different belts for the SC...Jag changed the tensioner design at least twice. Check for the correct OE belt by VIN in JLR parts, then cross to Gates or similar. No telling whether your removed belt was correct.
(The SC belt on my '07 was NLA from JLR - a $$$$ tensioner retrofit kit listed instead, using a different belt. I found a new belt to match my old, but it took a bit of work. PM if you get stuck)

 

Thanks, Jack. I had just cleaned up & ready to have a wee dram. I just finished the engine belt & it looks good.

I started at tensioner; then relaxed the tensioner completely (the breaker bar was conveniently held to the max by another appendage.) Working from bottom right, I easily slipped over the top (water pump) pully; relieved the tensioner & voila!
I did remove the reservoir, & all the air intake over the area.

The hardest part was angst created by not having done before. Once I got the right extension for the tensioner tool & the right halogen light, it was easy.

I have sent the SC belt back to Rock; they made it easy to return with printable label, free shipping back, etc.

I'll pick a SC belt up this week.

My only concern at this point is the peculiar fitting at the bottom of the expansion tank. It was easy to remove the spring. However, before I removed it, it was dripping. I guess I'll deal with that when I get to it.

 

Thanks, Hisport! I am replacing the original SC belt. I thought Rock had the vin, but I was wrong. The one I just returned was the most expensive they offered. I thought it was peculiar that the belt did not have a part number printed on the belt itself. Either, they sent one for another version on the xjr or someone put the wrong belt in the package which would have been easy to do since it just slides in & out.

 

There is a rubber "O" ring in there. May not be in great shape.

Do NOT lose that spring. I have never been able to find just the spring. I lost it, found it later, but had an old coupler with a good spring.

 

Actually, the SC belt seems to fit; so, I won't be returning.

After I put things back together, is there any special care required in filling with coolant? I have the proper coolant, but do I need to do anything but fill it up? Concern about air, etc.?

If I have the presence of mind later, will do an after action. With the few things I learned, it really isn't a difficult job; assuming, of course, she doesn't explode when I give her a crank!

 

Most people are successful filling up the coolant by having the front of the car up high and with the heat on high.

 

Thanks, Jack. Just got back from test drive - Wonderful!

2 Differences:
Initial squeak gone ( It would go away after a bit)
The SC whine is gone.

Sounds like she's brand-new!

Thanks for your help!!

 

Thanks, Jack. Just got back from test drive - Wonderful!

2 Differences:
Initial squeak gone ( It would go away after a bit)
The SC whine is gone.

Sounds like she's brand-new!

Thanks for your help!!

 

Hi Steve,
Don't forget to check the level of the supercharger coolant. Under the plastic engine cover at the front right hand side of the engine on the intercooler there is a large screw cap with a 19mm (IIRC) allen socket head. The procedure for refilling the supercharger coolant is in the manual in section 303-3B The coolant is shared, but you are eliminating the air bubble at the highest point (the intercooler).

Pete

 

A word of caution here. At least one person snapped that part off when trying to lever the filler cap off.

The gasket around that cap can also be somewhat fragile and is very difficult to find.

 

Thanks, Jack.

I noticed a fairly detailed description of the process on another post. Doubt that I'll have time before the weekend to explore further.

That is certainly a formidable size on the allen! With the pumps in the system, would this not fill naturally without removing the plug? Is there an observable symptom that this needs to be done?

Thanks SS

 

If you do not have any heating issues and you are getting full heat in the interior I would leave it.

 

The issue isn't to do with the heating system. The issue is air in the supercharger intercooler system. This is circulated by the supercharger coolant pump as a part of the main coolant system. The intercoolers are high up on top of the engine, and Jaguar recognised the problem with air locks there by putting in a filler port which you top up with the ignition on. This means that the supercharger coolant pump is operating and bringing air bubbles to the top. If it wasn't necessary, there wouldn't be the section in the manual on checking it. Just as with a non-functional supercharger coolant pump (BTDT*) you could invoke a restricted performance scenario if the level was low enough. If you get a 19mm hex key or hex bit on a 1/2" drive it opens up easily. Nip it up when you are finished, ten minutes max for this.

Pete M
* Been there done that

 

The issue is possible needless damage!

I have done this with the car nose up about a couple of feet with no problem what so ever.

I even checked the plug level after driving some distance and the coolant was at the top.

Been There Done That!

Also someone on here snapped that plug area clean off because it was on so tight.

When I did mine first time it was on extremely tight and the washer was ruined. I could not find a replacement washer.

Another tip and that is sometimes you do not have to follow the workshop manual word for word.

Those of us that have a lot of experience working on cars especially the 2005 XJR learn this from experience.

If you think this is a bit of a rant...it is. I dislike being "lectured" by people who probably have way less experience on Jags than I do.

Also replacing the belts can easily be done without removing the coolant reservoir in the first place.

Been There Done That.

 

Hi Jackra
Sorry if I sounded preachy, I wasn't aware of your extensive experience. I do apologise. I'm new to the X358 (only a couple of years) so was just trying to be helpful. I didn't enjoy the times I got a restricted performance alert, and so was trying to pass on something I found out well down the track on the process of fixing my cooling problem.

Now on the XJ Series 3 V12..., I've had mine for nearly 28 years and done almost everything on it myself, so I can speak with more experience on the H.E 5.3 than I can on the AJ33S. I've had Jags since 1972, Mk 7, 7M, Mk9, Mk 1 2.4, Mk2 3.4 before the V12, so only a noob on the X358.

Best Wishes and apologies,

Pete M

 

I went a bit over the top with my reply. Had a frustrating day to say the least.

Long ago I had a manual XJS V12. I rebuilt the cylinder heads on that.

 

Thanks to everyone for contributing to what has been a successful replacement of both belts!

A careful reading of the posts pretty well covers it.

One thing I suggest is, assuming there is no leak where the expansion tank joins the cooling system, don't remove the o ring. I did to inspect it & there waa absolutely no wear on it. Getting the o ring back in the fitting waa a bit of a pain in the ****. I was able to get it back in utilizing my index finger...

Speaking of the fitting into which the reservoir fits: Put the metal reatining clip back on the fitting before attaching the tank. The tank nipple has a slope on the clip side which allows the clip to slide right into the groove which retains it. Pretty ingenious engineering!