Front end clunk
I replaced both front air struts a few months ago and at the time I thought the bushings were all good. At the same time I replace the rear upper A arms and all bushes at the rear . I have recently noticed a pronounce "clunk" from the front end when I go over a speed bump and think it is the passenger front wheel. I will check the bushes again soon but should II suspect the shock in the rebuilt air strut? As always I appreciate any input
Steve
Steve
Go view this thread in the forum: Clunking Noise Going Over Bumps... Look at post #3. I had the same issue and finally resolved it after replacing bushings, A arms, one set of shocks, tie rod ends and other miscellaneous parts. Good luck.
Don't forget to check your Anti roll bar bushes at the front of the car as well. They are located along the bar just inside the engine bay so you have to move the inner wheel arch liner to see and access them properly. Also check the anti roll bar linkage as these can cause clunking as well. I replaced mine which got rid of the clunking for me.
I had a front end clunk on my XJR, which turned out to be the hydraulic shock which is inside the air shock assembly. Stabilizer links are historically a source of front end clunk as well
RyeJag.
RyeJag.
I had a clunk with fresh RMT rebuilds on front. Assumed it could not be strut. Chased very part in front end. Only got worse. Torqued, retorqued, all replaceable were brand new.
Finally swapped the struts left to right. Clunk moved with strut.
I think rebuilds sometimes have an abused core. People drive them deflated. The dampening is set on hard all the time. This beats these 15 year old struts into submission. Were not designed to be driven very far deflated.
Also usually the clunk is not covered by warranty on rebuilt struts. Only holding air is covered. RMT did give me a discount on a replacement. But not a free replacement strut.
BTW, sway bar links are EASY to check. Jack up car enough to get out of a bind. Unbolt the links. Check for clunks. If clunk goes away you hit a jackpot. Sway bar links are an easy swap and cheap.
Finally swapped the struts left to right. Clunk moved with strut.
I think rebuilds sometimes have an abused core. People drive them deflated. The dampening is set on hard all the time. This beats these 15 year old struts into submission. Were not designed to be driven very far deflated.
Also usually the clunk is not covered by warranty on rebuilt struts. Only holding air is covered. RMT did give me a discount on a replacement. But not a free replacement strut.
BTW, sway bar links are EASY to check. Jack up car enough to get out of a bind. Unbolt the links. Check for clunks. If clunk goes away you hit a jackpot. Sway bar links are an easy swap and cheap.
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