If he is smelling raw fuel at the pipes, won't fuel trim numbers help draw a picture?

 

Thank you Mark. I will post some fuel trims as soon as I have them - I've only just reconnected my battery. First I have to follow Don's excellent guide to EGR Valve checking (Post #35), then some a-spraying of Throttle Body Cleaner at any vacuum weaknesses I might still have, then a run through the city and a blast on the highway and then finally (I hope) Freeze Frames for you guys to help me understand!

Regards,
Ray

 

Always bear in mind that the car can't measure excess fuel. It can only see O2, whether from not enough fuel, or from enough fuel that's not burning fully, or from too much fuel where again the O2 isn't being used up (misfires).

 

Hello Don B,
Well I tested as you instructed and as a result I have learned some useful information about multi-meters in general. I have 12 volts at fuse 14 and at pins 2 & 5 (I am hoping that I numbered my pins correctly with pin 1 - 3 top left to right and pins 4-6 bottom right to bottom left - In other word clockwise)?
However, the continuity measured across all the pins you listed was 1 - I think that means open? Does this mean replace the valve? Or is open good, please? I had readings between pairs of pins other than those you listed (0.32 or 0.64 from memory)?
I have to say that the female connector does not look too good; a couple of very small bits of plastic have broken away from around the outer edge of a couple of the individual female receptors, but I think they are still making good contact with the male pins?
P0405 is the only stored code I have at the moment. I will go out for a good, varied run and check again, posting fuel trims. Incidentally, (I don't know whether or not this is relevant), but I still have a very slight 'tremble' on idle, which starts quite high (the idle) and then drops to normal? Also, there are occasional and rather loud 'clicking' noises coming from my engine as it warms, which (I am hoping) are just my newly refitted Cam Covers 'bedding in')?
Thank you (and the many others on this forum) again for your excellent help.
Regards,
Ray

 

Were these measurements taken on the EGR valve connector itself, and not the wiring harness connector? The Electrical Guide may show the pin numbers for that style connector, or you can match up wire colors to identify the pin numbers.

If the clicking is coming from the right bank cam cover (left when viewed from the front of the engine), it is probably the PCV valve. You can use a long screwdriver or socket extension like a stethoscope to confirm it as the source of the noise.

Cheers,

Don

 

Don, I took the measurements on the EGR valve connector itself. I assumed that the pins were numbered as I suggested because although there are more than one Yellow/Blue and Green/Blue wires, there is only one Yellow/Red and if that is pin 6, then it is bottom left and so it follows that the pins must be numbered clockwise from top left? In other words, I (hope) I have matched up wire colours to the pin numbers you gave? Please don't ask me to look at a wiring diagram!!

Don, given what I have said above, what do the readings I gave you mean, please? I am assuming that open (i.e. no reading) is bad? Help me, please.....


Don, I am married (very, 35 years) to a Midwife; I'll use her stethoscope!

Thanks,

Ray

 

I can't help you if you are unwilling to help yourself by referring to the wiring diagrams!

Quote:

Don, given what I have said above, what do the readings I gave you mean, please? I am assuming that open (i.e. no reading) is bad? Help me, please.....

Without knowing for sure which pairs of wires you were measuring, it is impossible to interpret your measurements. The pairs you measured in the 0.32 and 0.64 ranges could have been two of the stepper motor coils, but you really need to confirm which pins to test by comparing the wire colors that attach to those pins and checking them against the wiring diagram. Sorry, without this level of methodical attention to detail, the tests cannot be interpreted.

Cheers,

Don

 

My apologies, Don.

 

Okay Don,
I think I had the pin numbering correct and it does appear to be logical, so I take back what I said about it defying logic and being arbitrary. This being so:
1-6 - open. 2-5 open. 3-4 - open.
1-2, 2-3 and 4-5, 5-6 all read 030. 1-3 and 4-6 both read 058.
All other possible permutations - i.e. 1-5, 2-6, 2-4, 3-5, 1-4, 3-6 are open.
When I say open, I mean reading stays at 1 and there is no beep!
What do you think?

 

Yes, that's what I tried to say in a previous post but you said it better!

Okay, comparing the above to what I had gleaned from the Electrical Guide, you are measuring no continuity (open) on all the terminal pairs for the stepper motor coils. This raises a couple of questions. One, is your identification of the EGR valve electrical connector pins correct? I've been slammed with work so I haven't had a chance to look at our '04 to see if I could confirm your interpretation.

Secondly, Is your meter auto-ranging, or do you have to select a resistance range, such as 0-200 ohms, 0-20K ohms, 0-1M ohms.... If you have to select the range, try selecting higher ranges until you get some reading on a pin pair that should connect to one of the stepper motor coils. Just to keep this near the top of the thread, I'm repeating this info I gleaned from the Electrical Guide:

Yellow/Blue (YU color code, Yellow wire with Blue tracer line), connector pin 3; to Green/Blue (GU), pin 5
Yellow/Green (YG), pin 1; to Green/Blue (GU), pin 5
Yellow/Red (YR), pin 6; to Green/Blue (GU) pin 2
Yellow/Blue (YU), pin 4; to Green/Blue (GU) pin 2

Cheers,

Don

 

Okay Don, I'll double-check my interpretation of which colour wire to which pin and from what range my readings have been taken - Although I think they must have been auto? The symbol that looks like a sound wave? I'll try to see if I can use different ranges instead?

I'll get back to you.

Don, thank you for taking time-out to reply to me despite your workload - It is appreciated!
Ray

 

Don, When I stated that I take back what I said about it defying logic and being arbitrary, I now don't take it back because it is defying logic and arbitrary (See attachment). Don, you have problem solving logical circuits in your head par excellence!! Without the benefit of actually looking at my wiring, you deduced that I had either the pin numbers or the multi-meter setting wrong.....Turns out the meter was correct (auto) but the pin numbers are as attached. This presented another problem; as you can see from the attachment, the top left wire could be pin 3 or 4, the centre lower wire could be either 5 or 2 and the wire at bottom right 4 or 3. However, if I make the ANSWER fit the QUESTION - (I.e. measure as the numbers that are ringed in the diagram) I get the readings indicated! Do these readings make more sense?
When I was turning the connector in order to see the colour at number 4 pin, the wire popped out of the connector, so perhaps it was already loose and this has been my problem, or perhaps not; in any event, I presume I will need to try to solder this wire back in place?

I have seen an article online which proposes you make a simple tool out of a paperclip, which you use to bend down two small 'lugs' that hold the individual connection in place and allows you to pull the wire out; however, since my wire has already been pulled out of the connection, will this still work in some way, please?

 

Yes!!! In fact, if, somehow, the middle pin on the top row could be pin 2 rather than pin 5, and if the top left pin were 3 as you have circled, it would make absolutely perfect sense, because the pinout of the mating connector on the wiring harness would be the mirror image, resulting in the top row being 1-2-3 and the bottom row being 4-5-6. Your measurements between those pin pairs look perfectly plausible and would seem to indicate that all four coils are measuring the same.

If that wire has not been securely fixed in the connector body, that very well could be the source of your persistent P0405!

If what pulled out was bare wire and not the terminal, then yes, you will need to reattach the terminal, either by opening up the crimp end and re-crimping it, or soldering it to the wire. If what pulled out was the wire with its terminal firmly attached, you may just need to carefully push it back into the plastic connector body until it snaps into the little lugs or tabs inside the body that secure it in place. If the lugs will not hold it securely, you may need to figure out a way of keeping it in place. A drop or two of epoxy glue might work, as long as it doesn't foul and insulate the inside of the metal terminal.

If you can post a photo or two it may help us better understand what you're dealing with, but I'm hopeful you may have found the root cause of the DTC.

Cheers,

Don

 

Hello Don, it's very disappointing but the connector from the wiring loom is just crumbling when I touch anything. The plastic separating the pin receptors is simply falling out. I am going to have to replace the connector and I have no idea where to look for a replacement?
Regards,
Ray

 

I found this blanked off connector lying loose down in front of my radiator. I imagine it is for Supercharged cars?

It only has five wires, but it does have the six available pin receptors (second photo) required by my EGR Valve (last photo). Perhaps I could cut this connector out and use it, blanking off the 5 wires left behind with an insulated Choc Block? What do you think, please?

 

Hi Ray,

That connector probably is for optional equipment your car doesn't have, so if it isn't deteriorated you could certainly make use of it to repair your EGR harness. Before you cut it off, make sure its perimeter profile, notches and latching mechanism really do match exactly. If not, you may find a part number for the connector in the Ford electrical connector catalog. If you find it, a Ford dealer parts department could probably get one for you:

Ford Electrical Connector Pigtail Catalog 2016

Cheers,

Don

 

Don, I placed a new post:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...nector-193940/ about the connector because I thought we were drifting a bit from the original theme of this post (Fuel Trim Error Codes). I don't quite know the correct etiquette on the forum?
Anyway, mhamilton (who among many others has been of great help) replied and I was telling him how frustrated I feel. I started out with 5 error messages and thanks to the fantastic help I have received from many people on this forum, I now only have this accursed P0405 left and it may well be as simple as a wire out of the connector!
BUT I STILL CANNOT PUT IT TO BED (yet)!
Don, thanks again.
Ray

 

Okay Don & Co.......I have had to do a bit of a (hopefully temporary) 'rabbit job' on my EGR Connector. The plastic 'insulating' the individual connector within the body of the female had crumbled, so I have pushed the wire out through the front and soldered the connector to it, put a insulating sleeve over it and plugged it in to the male and then pushed the body of the connector over it and home.

Not sure how long this will last, but DON & Co - WITH YOUR MAGNIFICENT HELP I HAVE FINALLY GOT RID OF P0405!!!!!!!! It was obviously this loose wire in the loom connector.

However, I still have my old friend P0302 as a pending DTC. Anyone who cares to remember back far enough in this post will know that this DTC stayed at Coil 2 when I first swopped the coil out. It now has a new plug, new coil and no oil/debris in its plug well. So I have tried to check the coil connector and have found 11.39 volts at pin 1 (RW), but when I look for resistance more than 10,000 ohms at pin 4 (GW), I get a reading of 1137 when set to auto and when set to 2,000. Nothing at other settings. Guys, I am still very much a learner - I obviously realise that a meter with only 4 available digits cannot show 10,000, but (please) I do not know how to decipher this reading? Also, if (as I suspect) this reading is below 10,000 ohms, I don't know what steps to take next?

 

Congratulations, Ray! You're perseverance has paid off! Well done!


4-digit meters usually represent higher numbers by adding the letter K (kilo, or multiply by 1,000) or M (mega, or multiply by 1,000,000). When you say you measure nothing at other settings, do you mean settings below 2,000 ohms or above? I assume you are following the Pinpoint Tests in the Workshop Manual?

The first thing I notice is that the voltage is low at 11.39V. How does this compare to the measurements at other cylinders, and the voltage measured across the battery terminals?

I recall that you noted the electrical connector for the cylinder 2 coil did not connect with the same "satisfying 'click'" as the other connectors. Is it still behaving that way? If so, have you checked the rubber seal inside the connector to ensure it is not deformed or twisted out of position?

I can't recall if you told us the brand and model of the spark plug you installed - is it the proper NGK Iridium? Did you check the gap before installing the plug? They are supposed to come pre-gapped, but I have had a couple that were a little off out of the box.

Cheers,

Don

 

Don, Thanks.

My battery is probably a little low. My car has been stationary for some time with it connected, lights, boot light, seat position, fan etc., etc.. Does not seem to affect any of the other 7 coils, although I will check? Pin Test says 'is voltage less than 10.5 volts?

They are proper NGK Iridium

The reading for pin 4 (taken from pin 4 and an earth) was 1137 at both auto (the sort of sound wave device/emblem) and at setting 2,000. I got no readings (other than 1) at any other ohm setting. Unfortunately, I cannot move on to the next pin test until I know whether this reading means more than or less than 10,000 ohms? I'm obviously doing something wrong? Pin 1 appears to be both the 12 volt supply and an earth? Should I try testing pin 4 to pin 1, or am I doing it correctly with pin 4 and an earth (I am using the Throttle body and the Suspension strut bolts - Both give me the same reading - 1137? What sort of reading should I be getting, please?