Thanks for the great posts. Having air suspension issues myself for the first time - has someone written a step-by-step, how to diagnose issues? I don't have a good indie in my town, dealer is horrible, and I'm just starting to get the 'too low' and "air suspension fault" indicators. I suspect the control system, but don't know how to go about checking it out, piece by piece. Thanks - 2004 XJ8

 

I had to go the dealer for the air ride suspension and the cost including labor was 1800.00. That was for only one air ride suspension .

 

Hi TusconDave,

As far as I can recall, there have been no documented cases of Air Suspension Control Module (ASM) failure. By far the most common issues are air leaks and a worn piston ring seal in the air compressor.

What are the circumstances when you get the Vehicle Too Low and Air Suspension Fault warnings? Is it shortly after starting the car and commencing to drive, or is it after you've been driving awhile?

Don

 

HI. I spent the day on it, and while it does seem to periodically vent all air, I have developed a large leak, up front, which is now my focus. Once I get it pressurized, it cycles between running the compressor for 10 seconds, then lasting 25 seconds, then running the pump for 10 again, and so on. Pretty large leak that lets out enough air in 25 secs. Have sprayed soapy water over fittings, but no leak there. I can't figure out how to access front struts to see if they are the source of the leak. I asked on another thread how to get to them (short of simply removing them)?
Thanks.

 

Hi TusconDave,

I have moved your posts to your own thread.

The most common leak points in the air spring/shock absorber units are at the top seal or the air bladder itself. The edge of the top seal can be seen around the perimeter of the circular recess in the top of the unit around the electrical connector for the ECATS solenoid valve. You can spritz soapy water around that edge to check for leaks, just take care not to wet the electrical connector.

The air bladders are hidden by a cylindrical cover, so you can't visually confirm a leak, but you may be able to hear the leak in the wheel well when the system is charged or charging.

Thus far, there is no DIY solution for a leaking top seal or bladder, so the only permanent solution is to replace the air spring/shock absorber, and unless you can find a good used or rebuilt OE Bilstein unit, you will probably need to replace both front units so their performance will match.

OE Bilstein units are available from Jaguar dealers and other sources, and at least one or two companies offer aftermarket units, including Arnott Industries. Arnott used to also rebuild OE units, but no longer do. However, I have heard reports of another company that is now rebuilding Bilstein units. Search the forum for other options.

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks for taking the time. I was hoping to avoid having to remove both front struts to figure out which is leaking, but guess I have no choice.

I remember someone talking about a new remanufacturer of struts - RMI or RMP or something like that. I"ll see if I can find that name.

Thanks again.

 

RMT, haven't used them just keeping them book marketed as a possible source when the day comes.

Jaguar XJ-Series 2004-2010 Air Suspension Parts & Conversion Kits

 

Wow, those are getting downright cheap. Sort of makes coil over replacements start to look expensive. $629 for a pair of front rebuilt is just cheap.

 

Replaced both my fronts, with brand new Arnotts for $830 delivered to my door. $100 each, extra for new ones, over rebuilds, your choice to make, i went with the new ones myself.

 

TSBs

bob

 

Thanks for all the info.
Actually, my front leak is so bad the front drops noticeably within 30 seconds. No need for a fancy gauge over time for detecting a slow leak.

I just need to figure a way to plug up the airhose on one side, and then the other. If I have a blow shock (fronts only have 30,000 miles on them) then I should be able to tell pretty quickly if can plug one side then the other. Maybe I can find a brass fitting that I can screw onto the brass nipple at the end of the air tube. I'll experiment and let you know.

Thanks for the support. Still going to build a gauge, as I want to keep the air suspension and figure I'll have issues again.

Dave

 

If you can't hear the air escaping with your "naked ear," it may help to use a long screwdriver or socket extension as a "stethoscope" by touching one end to each air spring/shock absorber and the other end to your ear to listen for the sound of escaping air.

Cheers,

Don

 

Harbor Freight sells an inexpensive stethoscope that,s been hanging on my wall when not being used for years.Great tool to have, better than using the handle of something or other.

 

Thanks for the help. My leak was so bad that I only had to isolate which side it was on, and if for sure it was the strut. So, I went to Ace Hardware, and for $3.50 they had a brass 'cap' - a 1/8" plumbing line cap. I disconnected the air hose at the top of the strut, screwed on the cap tightly, which made for an air-tight seal. I then started the car, pressurized the system, and it didn't leak, so I know I need a new right side strut.

Former owner replaced the strut 4 years and 28,000 miles ago. Not too impressed with Jaguar struts. They are only warrantied for 12 months!

 

The OE air spring/damper units were made by Bilstein, so direct your displeasure accordingly.

Well done on your diagnostics and great tip on the 1/8 in. pipe fitting brass caps!

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks. Going to try RMT for $351 - we'll see what happens.

 

Bought a new pair of Arnotts for $830, or $415 each.

 

My car came with the Arnotts, they look real nice compared to the factory rears.. I dread the day I have to replace my rear air struts.

 

I'm hoping the rears, live up to what i've read, that they last a lot longer, as the cars weight shifts forward. The rears have the shifted weight lifted, so they work less, makeing them last longer.

 

The problem I have found with my arnotts, is that the front sits significantly higher than the rear. Even after shimming the front sensor, the front still rides high.

Apart from splurging on a JLR SDD/IDS system, Im not sure how else I can get the ride height corrected..