absolutely you must perform and adaptation clear and then a shift adaptation. And at least 50 miles of normal daily driving.

 

Adaption Clear and Shift Adaptions must both be done w/ Jaguar Software.

Usually a 1 - 2 or 2 -1 shift bump is due to either a solenoid or a rubber tube seal that is hard and brittle.

I had the same 1 -2 & 2 -1 issue in my XJR. Fluid change, mechatronic, bridge and tube seal changes. I have Jaguar IDS but decided not to do an adaptions clear as every other shift point was good.

Drove about 500 miles w/o sport and now 1-2 and 2-1 totally resolved!!!

Hope you rebuilt the valve body correctly.

Not your average DIY job!

 

I recently did mine including bearings and clutches. You must use computer to clear and relearn shift adaptation

 

After 5 weeks of severe CVD lockdown, I was able to take my X358 for a spin.

It was perfect, just as you guys all imagine (or hope) for this masterpiece!

(The advantage of the Jaguar not being my daily driver, is I get to really appreciate it when I do. You don't know how lucky you are!)

 

Went out for essential supplies.

 

Really? XJR and XFR in Budapest? RHD too? We could swap houses and cars and the other things when conditions allow. LOL

I have to say I was waiting for the siren!

As my profile shows, I have had plenty of interest in older Jags as apparently have you, and still look at adverts or admire older Jags at car shows. But I'm too past it to work on them now. Last XK engine I reconditioned was the Mk10 4.2 back in the 70's, all those camshaft shims. Or replacing the timing chain on the E-Type in-place, which involved removing the sump, which involved making special tools to take the torsion bars off the cross-member which ran under the sump...ahh don't get me started.

I would have loved to own a 6L XJ12, still look at them, just practicality gets in the way.

Personally, I also like the X-Type because it's like an XJ in miniature (I've driven one as a loan car, certainly not the same), especially the Sovereign version with walnut dash etc. People (rightly) say it's just a Mondeo in disguise, but then Jags of this era are Fords anyway? Even my 3.0 V6 x358, the engine is Ford Duratec also used by Mazda albeit in various modified forms. (although Americans won't come across the V6 version apparently)

 

Yes the x350 is a Ford in disguise maybe that's why it is so reliable.

I enjoyed the run down the motorway in Essex.

A head up display of the speedo would have made it more interesting.

You can't legally do more than 100 km/hr (62 mph) in my part of Australia. Pathetique!

 

Took my 2004 XJR to the dealership today and got a $3,600 quote to replace my adaptive cruise control module. 😬 Anybody got any new ideas on where to get these things fixed?


Or what specific models used the same unit? Thanx in advance!

 

You were Lucky! (Four Yorkshiremen Sketch)
(true) I had to spend 45 minutes yesterday in a queue at KFC drive-thru which had just opened again, at my wife's insistence. She was worried about her tummy. I was worried about how many times I had to use the starter.

 

Ouch, I've seen used units between $1,000 and $1,500

 

I removed the side trim off my 04 XJR.

I had the car for 2 plus years and didn't realize the driver's side trim was removed but the passenger side trim was intact.

I think the car looks better w/o the door trim. What a bear to get off and polished...

 

2004 05 06 07 2008 JAGUAR XJ8 XJR VANDEN PLAS CRUISE CONTROL MODULE 4R839G768AA

Take a look at the above on Ebay. Even 04-07 Jaguar X350 XJR XJ8 VND Adaptive Cruise Control Distance Module Sensor OEM

 

Siren? I have no idea what you're talking about.
We have two bases; main one in England and secondary in Hungary. The cars have made the 1,100 mile (1,760km) trip from Colchester to Budapest a few times. I would certainly like to take a look at NZ.
A little harsh to describe the X-Type as a Mondeo; almost no parts are interchangeable, although the front part of the platform is broadly similar, one could say the same about a VW Phaeton and Bentley Continental. The Duratec engine passed through a few hands; Porsche, Mazda, Ford and Jaguar, who certainly got the best out of it.

 

It's almost as bad in Britain; the national speed limit is 70 mph; I'm sure that I have never exceeded it, except on a private test track.

 

"It's almost as bad in Britain; the national speed limit is 70 mph;"

Yes but nobody takes any notice on the motorways until you exceed 90mph.

 

I had mine pack up a couple of years ago, some places say they can fix them, in my case it did not work. I found a used unit and the dealer fitted it but could not get it to program to the car after hours of trying.
Last year two auto electrical places tried to electronically remove the unit so the car did not know it was fitted, apparently sometimes this can be done and then the car just works with normal cruise control.
Again neither place could mange it after extensive efforts, they did not charge me for their time but I gave them a drink for trying.
If you are looking for a replacement unit then make sure you look for the correct one, the later model has the connection socket coming out the side and not the rear.
There is a generic part number as well as the Jaguar part number you can search for.
I think these units were used on some Range Rovers and Landrovers, also Ford and Volvo cars as well. Might be worth looking for the longer part number as I cannot remember what it was, Google will be able to help , I think it may be 18 digits or so.

 

Just purchased this Range Rover L322 SC inlet pipe cheap. Will replace my original with this less restrictive one.

 

I've done this.

Buy the 4" × 3" rubber coupler reducer from Advance or Autozone. Double clamp each end...

The best one is: Spectre Performance. (I used another brand and didn't feel comfortable..)

You need to grind down the ribs at the end near the throttle body about 1/4" to 3/8" lower to clear the brace. From recollection go back 3 rows..

Last point - it will sit kind of crooked after tightening down. (Prompted me to take mine off)

Found out afterwards you have to bend the metal tab up front a bit to straighten out the tube "visually".

 

This all fits together, even though it seems like odds & ends:

Been meaning to get my bumper cover off so I could remove damaged left headlight, finally got around to it.

Actually needed the small bits on the left side, marker lights & filler panels wound up needing to buy a complete bumper cover to get what I needed, and then some!

Covid 19 precautions make visiting the knacker's an odd proposition, but off I went, only to discover that space considerations have required them to dispense with most models older than 2010, so the row of XJ8s is almost gone. There goes my plan to pull a decent VDP interior for upgrades.

My low note horn had ceased it's function, so while at the yard, I bought a nice clean replacement horn set, but plugging it in today brought no joy whatsoever. My replacements were both bad, proving "clean" isn't everything, and if these horns weren't used on newer models, or perhaps one of the baby Jags, they may not have another to try out.

Also learned today, since the bumper cover is off, that Jag horns are "Klaxon" brand, made in France, and that the trademark dates to 1908, but expired in 1988, so now anyone can use it. For what it's worth.

 

French equivalent to "ACME"?