Pretty decent leak running down from engine at the firewall. It happened very quickly. Pulled about a dozen assorted panels and engine parts off to get access. Not the heater or hoses. Surprised to find that throttle body and EGR valve have coolant running through them! Pulled throttle body, looks good. In the middle of pulling EGR valve but don't feel any wetness on the hoses. If I peek down between back of the supercharger body and the EGR valve I can see puddles of antifreeze lying between the casting webs just below the EGR.

Please help!
Thanks

'06 XJR

 

Here is a Supercharged engine plumbing diagram. At least you can see where the hose connection are which is where most leaks tend to be. I am sure someone with a Supercharged engine can help you further.

 

Thanks I'm really hoping I don't have to pull the supercharger. Anyone know what's under there?

 

Yup. LCM's diagram is a flow diagram, so don't be confused. You're probably chasing a leak in the rubber hose connecting #3 and #5, and, yes, it runs right under the S/C.

 

If it's the most difficult to repair it must be the one. I have a shop manual but it does not address SC removal. Any docs available on this?

 

I think the link below will drop you at the download area. The complete service manual series is there for your pleasure.


If you've already fought your way to the EGR and throttle body, you're almost there.


http://www.mediafire.com/?x11yhijup29yt#8viyccmusy9t1

 

thanks for the link. Good stuff but I need to see more. I've got all hoses off, air horn and a ready to start unbolting the SC itself. I can plainly see the front two bolts but cannot see anything in the rear that looks like a solid attachment. The throttle body elbow is still attached. I see some torx screws holding the thottlebody elbow to the SC but I don't want to just start taking stuff off if I don't have to.

Anybody who has doen this already have any recollections of the job? I could sure use them.

Thanks

 

Two more images for your use.


There are four bolts on the elbow to S/C, three hold down bolts, and four gasket bolts at the top. Once disconnected, the S/C just lifts out.


One show the elusive rear S/C bolt home and the two elbow bracket mounting points. If I remember correctly, there is a third bolt on the elbow at the rear that secures it to another bracket of some sort. You should be able to feel your way to it.


The other shows shat your call might look like once everything it out of the way. The elbow does not have to be completely removed, but can be pushed up out of the way.


Be wary of any and all electrical connectors. Each seems to have its own magical combination of push, pull or squeeze to release. Do not force any as once the proper technique is found, they will all just pull apart.


Oh, and no two are the same, so no worries about plugging them back into the wrong place. A spray with electrical connection cleaner before reassembly is recommended.


If you have read through the service manual, you will see references to "discard gasket." Do as it says and install new gaskets. Don't try a silicon solution.


And while you may hope that someone can just share their experience, there is no substitute for using the service manual. Once you acclimate yourself to its style, you will find it has been worth the time.

 

Your help has been invaluable, thanks. I'm down to the last throttle body elbow bolts and the magic third SC bolt and I'll be at the culprit. I'll take your advice re the gaskets and replace all PITA hoses too. this is one job I don't want to do twice.

I agree with you about using service manuals I have one for every car I have, sometimes two. For some reason the section on removing the SC is not present although the installation sections are. Your shared docs filled in the blanks. I also like to hear from people who have done this stuff before. Sometimes I pick up tips and tricks and they provide another angle. On this job I need all the help I can get.

BTW - are there any better hoses than OE Jag? This stuff happened at around 76000 miles and I like to hang onto my cars.

 

WOW! the Sc is off (along with half of the other stuff in the engine bay). Below it I found 2 hoses both leading to the rear components. One from engine front to the the EGR and one from part way down the engine "V" to throttle body. I also found a short, fat hose, up front that ran into the block. And... a fair amount of water beneath the SC mainly towards the back. With all of the residual stuff in the hoses it's impossible to tell where it started. The hoses looked swollen at some connections but no splits are obvious.

So taking the shotgun approach I'm replacing everything that was hard to get at; and all of the gaskets and seals involved. I'm sure re-assembly will be no less fun than removal so don't be surprised if this thread re-appears!

Thanks to RCSnyder and LCMJaguar for invaluable advice.

 

Odd. I only had one actually under the S/C. The other came back along the outside of the passenger side head. Guess it really doesn't matter as long as the loop is complete.

 

YOU can now see why costs of repair at a shop are so high; it is the labour hours removing parts to get at the $10 hoses. Thinking another way, you're saving yourself a fortune in labour charges, so should be a rich man soon !

 

Would anyone be able to post the part no's for the hoses and gasket, so they can be purchased ahead of time?

 

Interesting thread. It looks like one of my hoses under the S/C is starting to leak. Does anyone know how may hours a Jag manual would say it would be to rectify said hoses? I have been quoted 16 hours at £100ph.
Is this accurate, does anyone know?
Thank you

 

As you know I did it myself. Not for the faint of heart but it worked in the end. To address your question: my effort took many days but included learning how, acquiring parts, working up the courage, etc. To me, two days in a competent shop does not sound unreasonable but not more. After all they are supposed to know what they are doing and should have proper equipment. The labor rate also is about right, at least in my area (Near Philadelphia, PA, USA).

You may find indy shops that will try it for less but it's a fiddly job; rewarding but NO fun.

Good luck
Rick

 

It was the same for me. I did it myself and it took me quite some days (also incl. search for parts, etc.) when I did the job, but then I wasn't in a hurry. In my opinion, 16 hours is already on the safe (high) side for a competent workshop, especially if they have already done the job before.

As there is a lot to be removed, my suggestion is to replace all that is rubber, and also the knock sensors, as they are also located in the valley.

Here's all the rubber I had replaced at the time:


Good luck,

Thomas

 

It's a big job. Had to do all hoses on my old 2005 STR after the under SC hose let go at 119K miles. Lasted pretty long I guess.
Just another thing to look out for? When the SC is removed the vacuum hose going from the SC elbow to the PB booster is disconnected. This has a o-ring that tends to fail and leak if disturbed. I replaced mine with a threaded 90 degree brass fitting in another thread.
Brake Booster Hose Leak

Here is the location of the vacuum hose;




It's a push-loc type of fitting. Push the metal collar in and pull out the plastic hose. Used on lot's of equipment/trucks.
.
.
.

 

Good point, it's something that I would replace in any case because it will be easily reachable while doing the valley hose.

Also in my case, the o-ring needed to be replaced and the plastic fitting disintegrated during removal of the hose. The kit from JLR also includes the brass ring, which in my opinion is not necessary because it will not fail easily...


Best regards,
Thomas