This as well as two other problems surfaced after receiving the vehicle back from a Jaguar Certified service garage. I will start with the most important issue first as it is getting warm hear in the DMV and I would really like to drive my Jaguar. The vehicles Air Conditioner was fully functional operated perfectly when I had the vehicle in my garage. Then the transmission issue arose and I first sought out the Jaguar Certified service garage. Well they had the vehicle awhile (4 months) and after receiving the vehicle back enroute home I noticed 3 issues;

1. the Air Conditioner was not blowing cold. I attempted to recharge the system. While doing so I observed that the Compressor and all other A/C controls (seem to) operate. It became obvious that the A/C will not hold Freon. Conclusion: Leak in the A/C system. Any thoughts on this one? Your Help and input needed..

2. the Horn(s) inoperable: No sound when I push on the horn on the steering column, Your Help and input needed..

3. the Windshield Washer Fluid PUMP inoperable: No sound when I attempt to discharge fluid onto the Windshield. Your Help input needed...

Of the above three issues I would like to resolve them as soon as Possible but as I mentioned the priority would be as listed in the above order...

ALL YOUR HELP will be MUCH appreciated...

 

Inspect all of your a/c lines for traces of oil. Wherever your refrigerant is leaking, it will leave an oil trail. Check the lower mount bushes on the condenser. If they've departed, then check the aft RHS of the condenser about 3/4 of the way up from the bottom for a small hole rubbed in it by the grille opening panel structure.


Check fuses first for #2 and #3. I'd lump #1 in here, too, but on your statement it sounds like the clutch is engaging.

 

I was also wondering if when they were troubleshooting/repairing the transmission, did they disconnect the condenser lines if/while they disconnected the transmission cooler lines to the radiator?

 

aholbro1: Thanks for your reply...Rained all day yesterday so I did not have an opportunity to look, will do so today.

al_roethlisberger: I have no idea...I noticed the problem after I took it to the Certified Jaguar repair shop in Virginia. What are your thoughts?? Keep sharing... I think I understand where you are going with this...but continue please...

I will advise....

 

aholbro1....I did inspect the lines as you indicated above and both appear to be clean, dry and Freon oil free. Upon further inspection it appears the High Pressure line going into the radiator seems unusually loose for this sort of end point. So via Al's observation I am looking at the loose connection.


al_roethlisberger, I believe you may have honed in on the answer...did they disconnect the condenser lines if/while they disconnected the transmission cooler lines to the radiator?


Aholbro1 and Al, Upon further inspection it appears the High Pressure (thinner) AC line terminating into the radiator seems unusually loose for this sort of end point connection. What I mean is I can move the end of the hose...it is jiggling. Not a good thing in my opinion. So via both comments here I am looking at there being a very loose connection or not being connected / terminated properly at all.


What I need is a YouTube video or the 1995 Jaguar XJR Air Conditioner System manual that can illustrate/indicate to me as to how to access the high pressure line going into the radiator. It appears I need to get passed the hood and the front grill to verify the connection if the line is connected at all...


Don B. or AlbBolivar can you Gents chime in as well --or-- provide??


Thanks sooo much,
Matmd

 

My experience with my A/C system on my XJ6 was that high side line that goes from the firewall into the a/c condensor was rubbing against a part of the frame and radiator. The small vibrations of the car caused the hose to chafe and causing a leak.

I've attached a picture where my leak was. The red part that's circle was exactly where the hole was. The hose you need to look for if that is where your leak is, is the "evaporator to receiver drier hose"

 

matmd,

I've had good success using an ounce of UV leak detection dye/oil added to the A/C system. Leaks show up clearly under a UV light pen or, in my case, my old black light from high school. There are videos on YouTube showing how this is done. The area where this doesn't work as well is the evaporator and expansion valve, since they are hidden up under the dash.

A/C professionals have electronic refrigerant leak detectors or "sniffers" that can find leaks anywhere their flexible probe can reach, including up under the dash and at the HVAC vents (with the blower fan turned off to prevent moving air from undermining the effectiveness of the sniffer).

Once you find and repair the leak, check with our A/C experts about the need to replace your receiver-dryer. You'll need to have the system evacuated and vacuum tested before having it recharged with the correct quantities of refrigerant and oil. Charging it yourself while air is in the system will never achieve optimal performance, and the correct amount of oil is critical for the survival of the compressor.

Cheers,

Don

 

Hello Gents...AlbBolivar and Don B,
Prior to receiving this post this AM I removed both of the front grilles to follow the high pressure line of the high side line that goes from the firewall into the evaporator to receiver drier. AlbBolivar.., I inspected precisely the location circled. It doesn't appear to have any signs of having leaked. It appears to be dry, no oil, very clean. I followed as best I could the cylindrical receiver drier from the car's RHS, high pressure line connection, over to the LHS...all appears dry and clean.


I am going to ascertain a can of UV leak detection dye to add to the A/C system. Don B.. you stated that "Leaks show up clearly under a UV light pen or, in our case, the old black light from high school... Yes I still have mine too...as I am "ole skool'' too....Lava Lamp with Barry White included... So I am hoping it is not in the area where this doesn't work as well; the evaporator and expansion valve, since they are hidden up under the dash...if it is, I will locate and check there with your assistance.


Looking ahead: Unless I am mistaken our 1995 XJRs originally came charged with the R134a..correct?? I located this chart:
Jaguar Refrigerant and oil capacity charts || TechChoice Parts


I am able to ascertain both R12 and the R134a. I maintain the R12 in my 1983 Sedan Deville. Strictly "MY OPINION"., because R12 gets a lot colder faster than R134a..


I "MAY" still have access to a Base Auto Hobby Shop albeit the closest one is 40-50 miles away. I Need to make a reservation when the car's A/C is ready to charge. So I'll plan to go there to have the system properly evacuated and recharged.


I am off to the Auto parts as it is cloudy and a good day to work this thru in my Garage. Back soon...

 

Back from the Auto Parts store with all items in hand. I sprung for the complete UV kit with the goggles and infrared penlight. Read the instructions on all and went at it.. 1. Unscrewed the low side intake cap, 2. turned on the car, 3. turned on the AC to maximum cold, 4. shot the UV leak detectant (3-4 second shot) into the low side, 5. Let the car run for 10-15 minutes, 6. Searched for signs of UV leakage. So far... No leaks detected. 7. Going under Dash to inspect...Not sure where I'm going but I'm going in...under...


As luck would have it the Relays for the Horn arrived via UPS..just before I pulled off to the parts store...

 

AlbBolivar and Don B...See my recent response regarding the "Horn". BLUF: IT WORKS.

 

albBolivar and DonB, i Re-inspected the system this AM and it looks as though you gents...via albBolivars diagram have pinpointed the area. I can see tiny specs of the UV dye along the upper part of the radiator which sits behind the receiver/dryer. Looks as though I need to remove the entire top cover to access it..? Is this correct...??

How do I get to the receiver/dryer? Is there a YouTube that shows this procedure? If so, please provide soonest.

Also, For those in need: SERVICE TRAINING COURSE 703 JAGUAR CLIMATE CONTROL SYSTEMS. DATE OF ISSUE: 07/01/2002

1995 XJR AJ16 & V12 Begins on page 207....Excellent Diagrams throughout.

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Trai...des/703_SG.pdf

I am searching YouTube but not sure what to request in the How to Videos.

Please advise.

 

I never had to remove the top cover of the radiator to get to my receiver drier. I did have to remove the front grill though. Once that's removed you can see how the receiver drier sits on top of the A/C condenser. Before removing it fully, I would check to see if the hoses are attached to tightly to one end of the receiver drier and the receiver drier attached tightly to the condenser on the other end.

 

AlbBolivar and Don B, Good Morning, The UV dye specks appear to have been a slight over spray of my shaking hand and the UV dye leaking out of the can itself.

I've been watching this youtube technician regarding evacuating and recharging AC Systems:
This week I purchased the vacuum pump and hoses and was successful in vacuuming out the A/C system using the general direction of the youtube technician:

1. vacuumed out the A/C system for 1 hour,
2. brought the system down to 30 inches of mercury/psi,
3. shut off the vacuum pump, closed the valves and waited another 40-45 minutes,
4. confirmed the system has "held" at 30 inches of mercury.

During the 40-45 minute wait I located the Jaguar refrigerant and oil capacity charts:
Jaguar Refrigerant and oil capacity charts || TechChoice Parts

For my 1995 XJRS it shows: 1993 thru 2000 All Engines
Refrigerant Type=R134a, Ounces=40.00, Oil Type=*PAG 150, Ounces=5.00
*(Additionally, General Motors issues Bulletin # 02-01-39-004B replacing PAG 150 oil with a lower viscosity oil. Thus, TechChoice now indicates PAG 46 (P46D) oil for those vehicles.)

I purchased 2 - 3 oz cans of the PAG 46 (P46D) oil and 2 - 20 oz cans of A/C PRO Refrigerant 134a...to recharge the system.

Before doing so is there "ANYTHING I NEED TO KNOW OR DO" before attempting this??

The directions on the cans seem pretty simple. Experience tells me on "Jaguars" it is anything but simple... In other words..."HOW DO I PROCEED?"

 

Good morning MatMD.

The cans that you purchased, did it include the recharge hose/gauge?

If so, this is a perfect quick guide showing you how to recharge the a/c system.


I used to use the method above but when you're troubleshooting a/c issues like I was with my XJR, buying those cans gets pretty expensive when you have to discharge the system and have no way of saving the refrigerant.

What I ended up doing was purchase a 30lb tank of r134a refrigerant. I was able to get it locally for about $80-100 a tank. Purchased 2 cans of PAG oil from my auto parts store and used a recharge hose/gauge to fill the system with oil.
I then hooked up my a/c gauge set but only to the low side part of the system (which would be blue) and hooked up the fill hose (the middle/yellow hose) to my 30lb tank. I opened up both ends of the low side (blue hose valves) and just slightly cracked open my big tank. There is a small window in my a/c gauge set where you can see the flow of freon going into the system. Of course before you do all this, the a/c system needs to be on full blast and recirculate on As I'm filling the system, I crack the valve open about a 3/4 turn for 5-10 seconds to let freon into the system then shut off for another 10 seconds or so to see if the system starts to blow colder. After about 5 minutes my system blows at a constant 45degrees Fahrenheit.

Now I didn't measure exactly how many pounds of freon was put into the system but I figured these diy cans of freon you can buy, there's no real way of measuring exactly how much goes into the system anyways

 

In my opinion, you shouldn't add any more oil to your system!

Vacuuming out the a/c doesn't remove the oil so if you add that oil you purchased you're going to have too much in there. Just add the gas!

 

Good morning AlbBolivar and Lawrence,

AlbBolivar: Regarding the R134a cans that I purchased, YES, they DID include the recharge hose WITH gauge. They are EXACTLY like the one in the Photo...and I have extra recharge hoses with the gauges. I chose this A/C refrigerant because this brand professes to be "COLDER" than the other (conventional) R134a. Is this True?? Has anyone found this to be FALSE?

I ask because like many I too want the coldest A/C solution for my auto A/C systems. However, I have a Sams Club membership to purchase the 30lb R134a tank since in the future I will have 4 cars A/C systems to maintain.
3 Cadillacs and the 1 Jaguar. Obviously it Economically makes sense....

Thanks for the quick guide showing how to recharge the A/C system.

Lawrence: Yesterday was usually cool here in the DMV. Since the A/C system has been inoperable for over 2-3 years I added one 3 oz can of the oil as I was using the vehicle yesterday for a short run. My thought was better safe than sorry to do so to cycle the A/C compressor a few times while underway.

1. Do I now need to drain the oil from the compressor? If so,

2. Is there a way to do so?

I am looking for a drain while awaiting your replies.

 

I wish I could answer you definitively, but I'm a "by rote" sort of a/c amateur - I'm by no means an a/c professional and when working on my own system I used torque settings, quantities of refrigerant and oil that were specified for my vehicle.

The only way to know exactly how much refrigerant and oil is in a system is to start with an empty system. Without that knowledge it's impossible to estimate if you have enough, too little or too much oil in the compressor.

AFAIK, the oil is drained when the compressor is removed and or rebuilt, so unless the compressor has been removed I believe the oil will remain in the system. Changing a receiver/dryer or a few o-rings at the "upper" part of the system should have little effect on the oil level.

I haven't drained the oil in my own a/c system, so I would wait for advice from another poster with that experience and in the meantime research the effects of excess oil on the compressor, and how critical the amount of oil in the system is to efficient operation.

If you DO open up the system to drain/refill with oil, you will lose your refrigerant and have to do the vacuum down/refill once again.

Larry

 

Lawrence you are absolutely spot-on in asserting the only way to be certain of oil and refrigerant levels in your system is to start from zero. Your further ruminations as to oil level are only partially correct: The modus operandi of refrigerant oil is to lubricate the system by traveling about entrained in suspension in the refrigerant gas. So where the gas goes, the oil goes, too... but as Lawrence surmised, not all of it. Think of the refrigerant as "air" and the entrained oil level as "humidity." As temperature and pressure of the refrigerant changes, so too does the amount of oil it can carry. You've strolled outside on a fine cool morning to a heavy dew? Similar events occur in the system. Once stable, refrigerant temp/press homogenous throughout, the oil that cannot remain in suspension condenses out into liquid. Geometry of the lines and attitude of how the car is parked combined with gravity cause it to seek the lowest point. So in actuality, when we disassemble a system, we find the most oil living in the compressor, drier(or suction accumulator) and the heat exchangers-evap and condenser. These components have far greater refrigerant capacity and surface area for condensation of oil in comparison to the lines.


So if you evacuate the system with the special equipment that allows you to return that same charge after service, no worries....... but if not, out with the old, in with the new, you'll need to add "some" amount of oil less than a full capacity amount. This amount is best determined by "guessing" with the mindset that a bit too much oil may result in a few degrees warmer discharge air while a bit too little will eventually grenade your compressor, offering you the opportunity to remove and replace nearly all components with an added bonus you'll be able to drain each one and measure how much oil is retained in each.... but you started from "too little" so the data won't be much good!


Make no mistake, if you release a full or near-full refrigerant charge to the atmosphere, you will lose enough oil to matter. In my own experience, through failure to check my condenser lower fixings regularly, I slid back the garage door one morning to spy a puddle of liquid under the right front corner of the car. Puzzled, I could only imagine a power steering fluid leak given the location.... but it was the wrong color... feel check confirmed oil of some sort.... further investigation revealed an oil trail on the grille opening panel support tracing to the back of the condenser where I found a tiny hole. The a/c had been working flawlessly the prior evening at shutdown.


I think a bit of research on the web may define some "average" values of residual oil for certain components - condenser, drier, etc. to guide you if you are replacing something. Compressors are the repository of excess oil as most manufacturers put the entire oil charge for the system in the compressor at initial vehicle build. So anytime you change a compressor, you should drain the old, take note of whether or not your replacement is dry or shipped with oil, and adjust accordingly. Remember to add a smidge to account for the fact all internal parts of the one you drained are still wet with oil if your new one is dry. Suction accumulators and receiver/driers can hold considerable amounts of oil as well..... and particularly on our X300''s, the R/D should be replaced anytime you find yourself with the system open for whatever reason..... just ask the guys trying to get to their TXV's behind the dash to clean the desiccant beads out of them....

 

Lawrence and Aholbro1, Thanks for the information and will assess and proceed accordingly. IS there is a difference between the A/C PRO R134a and the conventional Sams Club 30 lbs tank of R134a..??. Noticed on the A/C PRO R134a Professional Formula Refrigerant Label it says "ULTRA SYNTHETIC"...

 

There is no difference between r-134a brands. The only difference will be if they contain stop leak or dye. It will usually say on the can.

For the home ac diy I would stay away from the 30 lbs tank. Unless you have a way of measuring it, there is too much of a risk of overcharging the system with one of those. I personally just use the little 12oz. cans and put in the specified amount of refrigerant. If you have an a/c manifold set, all you need is a tap.