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Not sure if this is what you thought it would be, but there’s always discussions on deteriorating camcovers.
There were rumors of compatible Aston Martin camcovers, early aluminum covers and so forth.
I discovered a PDU in the UK that I purchased and since it was being shipped over, I also snagged a cheap camcover and had them ship it to a “magnesium powder coating specialist”, as I mentioned earlier.
Not sure if this is what you thought it would be, but there’s always discussions on deteriorating camcovers.
There were rumors of compatible Aston Martin camcovers, early aluminum covers and so forth.
I discovered a PDU in the UK that I purchased and since it was being shipped over, I also snagged a cheap camcover and had them ship it to a “magnesium powder coating specialist”, as I mentioned earlier.
So far, so good, however my camcover gasket appears to have taken a dump, so I’ll know more next week, when I take it off and replace it.
If you’re serious about having someone create a new camcover out of a new material, then you really ought to advertise that on both the x300, x27 and I’d include the x81 forums. As long as you are ready to talk about price too. I think the right product, at the right price, would be very popular.
Thank you for the link, that was a very interesting read!
As for the possibility of producing a valve cover, if I were to go the billet aluminum route that raw material would be more $$ than the price of a new OE replacement. If I went with the fabricated route using a machined flange from billet the materials would be much more reasonable but the labor would be a bit much. My thoughts are to first find a suitable replacement, use one to model a couple of different styles, machine them out of wax for ease and fitment purposes and make the file available to any one who desires to undertake having one made or make themselves.
Time for an update, took the old girl out for a jaunt over the weekend. Ran smooth as silk and no issues other than the cruise is still inoperative. I will note that the cruise indicator light is not on so based on the wiring diagrams and common failures I plan on heading for the brake cruise switch to check for connections and operation. If those check out I will be heading for the cruise switch pod. Once I get that sorted out I am planning on taking a trip down to south Texas late September or early October to finish out the driving season then putting her in storage for the winter. I may at that point pull the radio and a few other items to be sent out for repairs. Some of those involve displays with missing segments like the HVAC and clock and the instrument cluster with back light issues.
A few other items that have needed addressing for many years include the throttle cable from the traction control actuator to throttle body, getting the steering wheel and console rest either refinished or replaced (leather is showing it's age) and repairing/replacing a few door speakers that are a bit rough.
Another thing I want to research are the ignition coils. I have yet to find any information on the secondary resistance spec. I did attempt to measure my originals and found it odd that all six show infinity (open) She certainly did not run as poorly as one would think having open coils and no misfire under load. So at this point until I cut one open I can only surmise that the secondary has either a built in spark intensifier (gap) or perhaps uses a high voltage diode like those found in microwave ovens.I could see the latter being a possibility to reduce EMI and it would somewhat explain the high cost of OE spares.
Well, I can say the original coils are extremely well built. They use a stacked bobbin wound secondary and that is as far as I have gone. The potting epoxy is very hard, same cannot be said about the outer shell.
Time for an update on running issues. Previously I had mentioned that after the new coils and oil separator repairs and cleaning the MAF sensor that she was much happier now but still had a very slight roughness at idle.
So today I placed the girl on the lift whilst leaving the engine running. My main reason for raising her up was to inspect the wiring and such for the ABS sensors and also to see why it is every time I do raise her and put her on the ground I get the ABS/Trac Fail/Trac OFF warnings. While looking around I heard what sounded like a happy fuel pump running however it dawned on me that I should not be hearing that from under neath the car. So as I looked up lo and behold I found a gnawed through vacuum line to the canister purge valve which is right next to where the left rear wheel speed sensor wiring enters the floor pan and in front of the left rear suspension spring. A quick trim and re install of the hose solved the last of the roughness. Canister Purge Valve, 1995 VDP 4.0L
