Hello again,

still working on the front lamps that do not work. Marker lamps and tail lamps. I have gotten the left side signal lamps working. I think it may come down to one of two things: the white connector to the left hand forward fuse panel (under the hood) has signs of bad corrosion/overheating and possibly a bad body processor module. I would like to know if the connectors are available to purchase somewhere? I know there was some type of connector available for the lamp wiring (the one found inside the front fender)

Please let me know if these are available or which years share the same front fuse panels

Thanks!
Dan

 

See page 21

www.jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/X300 1996 LWB.pdf

and TSB Y

Fuse size upgrade I can't find , there was a specific fuse upgrade with the newer lamp upgrade with no lamp control modules under the front hood

There was a change in the exterior lights during the 95 production year at VIN # Z

Do you have a left and right fwd lamp control module ?

 

Thanks for the page!!! I do have the headlamp control modules, but those don't seem to be the problem. I think it's the body processor not able to send out enough amps to the lamps. I have seen some you tube video regarding this same problem. All my fuses are good. I have power and ground at the lamp modules but the power is not quite 12v. 10.7v or so is what I show. Strange as the battery is fully charged. I have ordered a body processor module online so let's see if it helps. I really hope it doesn't need to be programmed to the vehicle VIN!

this TSB that you speak of, where can I find it? I would LOVE to bypass the modules if I could.

 

What is the last 6 digits of your VIN # ?

Before or after # 739427

The TSB only refers to fuse upsizing off the top of my head if I can find it

The BPM is plug and play , but not the case with the later V8 powered version ( X308 )

General practice is to remove the positive battery cable when changing

There is a fuse # 3 or # 4 on the trunk fuse box where the fuse is hot at all times but you may not be having other BPM problems
Search Genuine Information System Control Module Parts For Jaguar Xj 1995 - 1997 (from 720125 To 812255) Classic | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts

Seems to be the same part # through all production months

Have you checked the 4 corners of the car underneath for the 13 pin black connectors that are exposed to the elements ?

There have been problems with the multifunction switch , not that you will need to replace it but the wire soldier points come loose and just resoldier

 

yes, have checked the multi switch and it's working fine. I have checked the black connector on left side, it was clean as a whistle! But I can check the other 3 just to make sure.

My last 6 of VIN 721022 so it's before the break VIN# above

will look into the link u put above!

Thanks So far!

 

Your headlights do go through the 2 under the hood light control modules for your early production #

You will see the area of concern in the smaller exterior lights around these pages starting with page 95

jagxj1995.pdf (jagrepair.com)

The 95 wiring guide is lacking as lines are missing in the wire runs , must have been a work in progress before publishing

But you can't use the 96 wiring guide as this is the upgraded lights design

 

ok that makes sense. The headlamps and fog lamps work perfectly. So this makes kind of sense. But again, the black connector on the affected side (left side) is perfectly clean. I am also able to probe power to the various lamps and get them to come on.... which points to either a bad lamp module (which I have checked and are good both sides) or a bad light switch or bad body processor module. My bet is on the BPM

 

Some of the light bulbs are a pinched glass light tube with 2 ears on the blade connection side

These ears can be sprung out to make better contact in the lamp base

The BPM is hard to get out so you might wait

Which specific lamps do not work ?

 

If you take a paper clip and straighten one of its legs out

Hit the paper clip wire tip with a hammer to flatten it out then a 90 degree bend so you have a tool to slightly pull out the positive power contact in the standard type of lamp base

If the original lamp base was not making good contact with the bulb heat may have ben generated to melt the soldier on the bulb

You can add soldier material back on the bulb

Fretting can also degrade this electrical contact with the bulb so again you would add soldier back to the bulb