1995 XJR
Had intermittent ABS and Traction control lights show up on dash.
Have IDS and was able to confirm a C1095 code. No other codes reported.
Removed ABS module and sent off to ModuleMasters for a resoldering. (Wanted it done right)
While it was off the car ABS light was on of course.. Traction fail light did not illuminate.
Got the module back, installed both ABS and Traction fail lights come on. Now they illuminate with ignition on right after the car goes through it's self test. Before they came on after 10 mph.
Cleared all codes. But the code that keeps coming back is C1450. IDS refers to throttle body but researching that code appears to relate to the traction actuator motor circuit or actuator fail.
ABS and Trac fail lights still coming on before even starting car.
Driving the car and trying to initiate the traction control does not seem to work.
inspected the pinouts on the module to make sure I had not bent any pins on install. All look good.

So wondering if anyone has further troubleshooting advice before ModuleMasters open on Monday. My assumption is that the module processes the traction actuator motor signals because when the unit is unplugged the Traction fail light goes away. Was concerned that I had dislodged wires when moving the traction actuator motor out of the way to remove the module but plugging in a spare pump I have does not clear the code.

My assumption and occam's razor indicate Module Masters may have caused an issue when resoldering the board but I am a little murky about why the traction actuator motor failure would cause an ABS fail. As is usual for me it seems like few people have had this issue.

Any input appreciated.

 

C1450 is faulting the ACTUATOR MOTOR. (not the pump motor)

The motor will pull the throttle CLOSED (over-ride your foot on the accelerator) when traction is lost at the rear wheels.

DTC guide for possible causes.

 

Thank you sir. I was using the term traction pump wrong I was meaning the motor. Have edited my post to replace my references to the pump and correct. Had reviewed the possible causes via the link you shared before I posted.

My question is more related to how the ABS module interacts with the actuator motor and could a dry solder joint cause that error or does the actuator motor communicate with the ECU independently? I think not. Was hoping there was some way of narrowing down the cause of the fault. Again apologies for my misuse of terminology and thanks for correcting me.

 

You are just plagued by motor probs....

I have seen traction control motor actuator POSITION SENSOR faults but the C1450 is a new one on me.

I forget where the motor gets power, but if it is the module, it could have the same solder joint issue?

 

The ABS module being the issue is going to be my working hypotheses so I can get on with my weekend for the moment, Thanks for the comments I just see this Jag as a wonderful machine to work on and I am just making up for years of not exactly neglect but things being allowed to slowly deteriorate.

 

If you look under the traction control actuator you my find the wire insulation degraded and missing exposing the wires , The upper set of wires is only the actuator position sensor

The brake switch is utilized and the brake switch assembly is 2 separate switches

One switch is dedicated to the brake lights , and the other the ABS / TC module and something else guessing the engine ECU

To test this 2nd switch you would read pin 20 ( red / brown wire )

Thee brake switch provides a ground path

 

Thank you. The module is on the way back to Module Masters and hopefully they will explore pins 20 and 21 for solder integrity. More to come. Have sourced a used module as a backup.

 

So while Module Masters are rechecking the ABS module I decided to pickup a spare module on Ebay. Hooked it up and and I am getting the same C1450 DTC and it will not clear. So this tells me that the module they repaired is fine and something else is wrong. Rechecked the receptacles on the connector, tried to erase the DTC with my spare traction actuator motor plugged in... No go. My current theory is that there is a wiring continuity break that I worsened when removing the connectors. More to come as I delve deeper.

 

The ABS codes or warning light will not clear until you reach a speed of 12.5 MPH and 3 cycles of ignition off and on , or it may be 3 cycles through 12.5

......... ............

 

OK I think problem solved and there is egg on my face.
Possible causes of C1450 code
TC actuator to ABS / CM circuit: open circuit, high resistance, short circuit to ground or B+ voltage

TC actuator motor failure

ABS / TC CM failure

The code says open or short. In my case I cannot really figure out how it worked in the first place as so much insulation is gone. I presumed I was looking at shielding. First pic is my "spare" motor and the second is the one on the car. Both are awful. I can only assume that the PO had carefully separated the wires but again I can't believe it worked and that sidetracked my troubleshooting. By the way for testing purposes the grey wire appears to be positive and brown ground. The ECU must need to register the actual resistance of the windings on the motor as a simple multi-meter resistance test will indicate a short whether separated or not. 12v applied will activate the motor when the wires are separated. Will update when I measure the actual resistance of the windings. On the car separating the wires caused the dash ABS and TRAC fail lights to go away.

Lessons learned: RTFM. Shorting the traction actuator wires will activate the C1450 code as the code description tells you. Now on to a mea culpa with Module Masters. Guess it is a possibility that the module they fixed was ignoring the short but I think it is more likely the wires were magically not touching.

What finally caused me to twig this was another post that showed a actuator module with actual insulation on it.

 

The question becomes the repair of the 2 bottom wires as they are inside the actuator and not visible

 

Agreed. Am hoping that the deterioration there is less given it is somewhat protected from the environment. In my case on both motors it appears intact. I am going to cut the wires and wrap with shrink tape. Will post results when done.

 

T was considering the same with mine but with removing the bottom cap and putting shrink tubing past the rubber grommet and into the inside

I.m guessing the grommet keeps the wires separate from each other and there may not be a issue inside

A better picture is on page 87

X300 1995.pdf (jagrepair.com)

Don't remove the throttle cable from the top side , a pain to get back together

Wires should be polarity dependent

You can stager your cuts to not mix them up

 

Ended up splicing in some wire For each end I used shrink tubing that was close to the diameter of the original un-insulated wire and slid it over and then heat shrunk. Put a dollop of rtv over the grommet entering the motor to keep the elements out and hopefully limit movement of the wire. Polarity is important to maintain. Used un-insulated crimps and covered those with 2 layers of shrink tubing. too. Should last a while. Now have traction control and ABS with no errors. yay.

 

Resoldered module is back in the car and all is well. Traction working fine FWIW. Would like to do a shout out to Module Masters. Shipping is super quick for anyone on the West coast of the US and they stand behind their work even with customers like me who are totally barking up the wrong tree.