Hello All,

I have done extensive reading on this forum after having my 1998 Jaguar Vanden Plas v8 4.0L for about a year or so. In Winnipeg here, I can't safety the car with the ABS light on. So I figured I'd register and see what everyone thought and maybe we can help another person down the line.

So I took all 4 of the ABS sensors out and cleaned them and found that two were bad so I replaced them and then checked all my sensors for resistance, and all looks well. I also cleaned all the tone rings. The ABS light is still on.

So I figured I'd take the ABS module out and re-solder the power pins as outlined many times on the forums. This didn't solve the issue either unfortunately and the inside of the module looks brand new (no corrosion no solder breaks).

Now I'm getting codes p1643 and P1260 and I did recently replace the battery for a brand new AGM one. My next step was to remove the TCM and ECM to review them for corrosion anywhere or solder breaks and those modules look brand new as well on the inside with no solder breaks or corrosion. The connections all look real clean for the connectors as well.

I also went ahead and took the brake light switch out and have that soaking in WD-40 as I've read on here that has solved some issues as well.

Does anybody have any thoughts or suggestions as to what I should try next? All I can think is that I should replace the ABS module.

Thank you all for your time.

Sincerely,

Jake

 

Did you drive the car after each change? Most of the ABS codes will clear only after driving a few hundred feet.

 

Replace the brake light switch.

 

Hey thanks guys! I appreciate your response.

I have already ordered the brake light switch and it has arrived but I haven't installed it. I just have to hook it up and see if that's the fix. It's odd to me though that it'd just throw a c1175 code if it were that and not some other erroneous code.

Yeah, after each change I drove the vehicle and the code remained.

At one point after I had the module repaired locally, the code disappeared! I was super stoked. I drove on the highway for 45 minutes and there was no ABS code or light.

Then just as I was parking the car on a gravel road, the ABS light came back and it has never gone out since.

It's throwing a c1175 code now permanently with no possible way to clear it. I tried a hard reset by touching the positive and negative battery cables together and no dice. I tried clearing the code with an ABS code scanner, no dice.

The ABS light is always on. Before starting the car, after starting the car, driving the car, etc.

My thoughts initially were that maybe it was the drivers rear wheel bearing or a tone ring. Those are immaculate, no issues with them at all.

Now I'm convinced that the guy that repaired the ABS module locally messed up some of the electrical traces for the drivers rear wheel speed sensor.

So now I've ordered a used module, 'JLM20556'. I was lucky enough to find one online for 75$ from a junkyard in B.C. which is being shipped to me now.

So I'll hook everything back up and try with the new brake light switch first and if that doesn't fix it, I'll swap the module and see if that does it. That way everyone knows exactly what fixed it. I'll post everything here.

Below you'll see what the current 'repaired' module is.

ABS Module JLM20556 - Unedited.


ABS Module JLM20556 - edited. This picture showcases the bottom two capacitors that were swapped with the brown ones in the upper row. I believe this repair has created an unclear-able c1175 code for me because the ABS module can't read AC voltage incoming through the drivers rear wheel speed sensor.

In every possible case, I will track information here for everyone.

 

The best way I've found to test the modules is to install it in a similar car with NO KNOW FAULTS.

You just need to unplug the modules and stuff the replacement down behind the left headlamp and plug it in to test it.

I have found several that had PERMANENT hard faults that could not be cleared. I usually discard that module and get a good used replacement.

The fault could also be the wheel speed 'link-harness' so if a replacement shows the same fault, it is likely NOT the module.

 

So I replaced the brake light switch as recommended previously and I still had the ABS c1175 code even after doing the hard reset.

The ABS light was immediately on after the hard reset, no delay at all.

I then picked up the replacement ABS module which is a 'JLM20556' and is a direct replacement for what is currently in there.

I did a hard reset and then drove around for a bit with no ABS light for about 1 or 2 minutes.

Then the ABS light came on but there were no codes for it.


Old Module - Back

Replacement Module - Back

Replacement Module - Front

Old Module - Front

Just the regular P1000 which changes to P1111 after a while.

So my thoughts now are that I could open this new module up and see if the power pins need soldering but I think I'd rather test if the ABS pump is working or not.

I should be able to run 12v to the ABS pump some how for a second or two to see if it works right?

What are everyones thoughts on this? Thank you all for your time.

Sincerely,

Jake

 

How did you get a C1175 DTC from the first module?

A generic OBDII ECM reader will NOT read C (chassis) codes.

Yes you can 'flash' 12V across the power connector to see if the motor runs.

 

Thanks for your response motorcarman!

I was able to read the codes with an Innova 3120F+ scan tool. I navigated to https://www.innova.com/coverage and was able to insert the VIN of my car as well and it says it supports ABS which is why I was able to see the c1175 code on my scanner.

 

If the ABS MIL is ON, There will almost certainly be a fault logged in the module.

bob

 

I had an ABS light on for weeks and tried everything. By chance, I took the front right seat out (mines RHD so driver's seat) to do a small cosmetic repair, Replaced the seat and the ABS light was no longer there.

Fiddled about with the seat connector only to find the ABS flickering, some re-soldering and not had a problem since. Slim chance I accept, but worth a look?
Paul

 

Wow! That's really interesting. Yeah I can definitely give that a shot and see what happens here.

I saw another user get a C1175 and he replaced the drivers rear abs sensor and that didn't fix the issue so he replaced the passenger side rear sensor and that got rid of his code too.

Seems incredibly bizarre to me but I do have a spare sensor here so I may try that as well.

I checked continuity on all cables from the ABS module harness back to each individual sensor and there is continuity. The resistance on each wire is roughly the same as well.

So that kind of rules out ABS speed sensor cables in my mind.

I also tested each speed sensor for AC voltage while spinning the tires by hand and they all read an AC voltage as well.

But I'll spend some more hours trying things and drive it more and hopefully something will come up. I'll post my updates here.