XJ6/XJR/XJ12 Front Checkarm Plate|Jaguar Door Checkarms|Coventry West


i finally found a part to fix the door!
every jag i have seen in cali had this problem (x300)

i will attempt to make this repair as i just replaced the cable and micro switch in the door!

im just super busy and using my phone to post. i will make the d.i.ys for you all!


any one complete this repair and have any tips?

 

That's make's it a lot easier.

A few years ago, I had to cut a repair section from a scrap door.

Graham

 

Not much help to you....but the best tip is to put a couple of fender washers on it on or before the first day you hear it clicking when you open the door!

Hat-tip to Motorcarman who saved me from your situation when I startead to get into the 96 to leave his shop one evening. He heard the clicking and shouted, "Don't do THAT!"
Me: "It's been doing that since I bought it...been meaning to look into it..seems I remember a posting on the board about it..."
"You'll break it!!!" Then he commenced digging a big piece of C-shaped foam out of the door and showed me how it goes back in after fitment of fender washers. Naturally, I drove home and proceeded to break one of the studs on the check arm! Not to worry, David from EveryDay XJ supplied a replacement check arm for not much more than your re-enforcement plate. I fit fender washers on each side of the door jam upon replacement, then got a M6 bolt welded in-place of the broken stud so I have a spare check arm.

I need to go perform a similar fix on the rest of my XJ front doors even though none of the rest are clicking. Cheap insurance against failure. I have not heard of this failure occurring on the rear doors.....anyone?

Removal of inner door panel is required for access to change the check arm. Not necessary if just adding washers under the nuts as a preventative measure.

 

Can you clarify what he told you not to do? I'm a bit fuzzy on what is actually breaking or causing it to break.

.

 

ok the door check keeps the door from closing once open. the metal that the door check pass's threw brakes and you can not fix it... now you can place this plate over the broken metal. the door check itself is not broken but the metal it goes threw is.

i asume the mechanic heard the metal noise and wanted to fix it before the metal broke apart.

 

Pretty much as VandenPlas described. Bob meant, don't swing the door so that it makes that popping sound.

Yes, it is the door that breaks. The popping sound is a crack in the door sheet metal under the check-arm mounting that is "oil canning" as you open/close the door. Eventually, you just rip the check=arm out of the door.

After I fit fender washers, I still had a slight pop when opening and closing the door. I knew by-feel the lower nut was not quite as tight as the upper, so opened up the door to put a "little bit more" on the lower...that's when it snapped. I think it had a fatigue crack - not much torque to snap it...I was using the ratchet and holding it up at the clicky-part, not out on the tip of the handle.

No clicks now with the new check-arm and washers on both sides.

 

I just got my 2nd Daimler Double Six a couple of weeks ago and found the driver door not staying in the open position. So I removed the top half of the door card as explained in this youtube video:


I removed the checkarm from the chassis and pulled it from the doorframe. Inside it looked like this:



One of the two lips was still attached to the door since it had broken off. I had that welded back into place. Than I bought some kind of bracket from the hardware store.



I cut that in half and made the two pieces fit the space in the door. I removed the black adjuster arm from the unit by clamping it in a vice and using a long screwdriver to give room between the 2 rollerbearings to free the adjuster arm. Now I could accurately mark the position of the holes to be drilled for the bolts to through. Because the metal around the boltholes in the doorframe were seriously damaged and distorted I placed the two metal plates on each side of the affected area, put bolts through them and screwed them on really tight so to bend the metal of the door back into its original form. After this I cut square apertures in the metal plates where the black adjuster arm goes through.



As you can see I fitted the inner backing plate around the black adjuster arm before putting the hook end of the adjuster arm back into the check arm assembly. Tip: make pictures of how the unit was put together before dismantling it and make the aperture in the outer backing plate large enough to allow the bigger outer end of the adjuster arm through. Now it can be reassembled. Tie a small string or fishingline to it when you try fitting it so when it slips out of your hand it can be easily pulled out from the bottom of the door. Also, on the outside of the doorframe there is a double skin of metal with a aperture just big enough to reach the upper and lower bolt to screw the nut on. Therefore your the outer backingplate that you cut to size cannot be much bigger than the aperture in the doorskin. Whole procedure cost me around $10 for the bracket and a new iron file.

 

2nd picture should be this:

 

I mean this one: