Please keep us informed, tsfo2. Also, just a tip for the future, but it is helpful if you add your vehicle details (Model, Year, Engine, Mileage) to your signature so that information shows up in all of your posts so others don't have to always scroll to your first post to be reminded of the vehicle's specifics in order to know how to accurately respond (or offer their wildest guess, anyway :-)

Cheers,

Don

 

Just a quick update, and a warning: If you're planning on removing your IACV for any reason, BEWARE, the two small 4 mm (5.5 mm hex head) screws which hold the IACV in place are fairly long and were put in place with Loctite, or similar, thread compound. There's a fairly good chance that the heads will simply snap off of these screws rather than them unscrewing. I read somewhere else in this forum about that happening to a guy, and it happened to me as well. So, if you're thinking of removing your old IACV, before you begin, be sure you're prepared to have to remove the TB and drill out the old screws and tap some threads for some new, larger screws. Also, BTW, this time when I had the TB off I happened to notice the Ford logo prominently stamped on the bottom of the TPS.

 

You should ALWAYS use a little heat concentrated on the threaded area to melt the locking compound (work quickly).

There might be enough of a 'stump' left to heat and use some 'grippy' pliers to get the broken screw out.

You might want to forgo the locking compound and use anti-sieze for reinstallation.
The next guy will thank you.

bob gauff

 

When I changed the IACV on the '96 X300 VDP I owned I snapped the two screw heads off. I re-drilled and tapped to a slightly larger size screw. After many hours and so on and so forth I could never resolve the high idle and chronic stalling so I scrapped the car. This raises a pretty significant issue in my mind; is the age of the ECUs and associated circuits/devices causing them to deteriorate and become virtually impossible to repair without a dealer scan tool or repair at all? I am concerned about my '95 XJS having similar problems as it ages and I pile on the miles (104K now). If it does and if I can; I'll change out the stock Lucas GEMS EMS for an aftermarket system. To be sure, that process will raise a whole new set of questions... IMO the engine management systems and the ABS are going to become increasingly problematic as these cars age.

 

I agree.

We're seeing specialist outfits popping up to repair ECUs and the like but, still, with many components needing dealer level equipment for calibrating/programming things will be ....or already are....a bit difficult for many hobbyist DIYers.

Cheers
DD

 

I completely agree Doug. I looked for quite some time for a used dealer scan tool and came up empty handed. I finally had to cut my losses and part the car out. I didn't pay a helluvalot for it when I bought and it was totally rust free when it went to the crusher.


The "generic" scan tools work fine for diagnosing OBD2 faults (federal law), but the lack of dealer level scan tools for resetting/reprogramming critical functions will condemn more cars like this to the scrap heap. The possibility that my '95 XJS could have similar problems in the not too distant future keeps me up at night...

 

My 97 XJ6 did the same thing . Turned out to be the Idle Speed Control . Arch