Hi all

I have just bought a ‘95 XJ6 and it has a few problems I want to sort.

The first and main one is that the central locking isn’t working, either when I unlock the door with the key or from the button on the dash. My car didn’t come with a fob and I’m not sure if it’s meant to have one. I’m pretty sure the fuse is okay, other than that I’m not sure what to be checking. Possibly related but the clock on the dash doesn’t go either.

Next is the trunk release button’s don’t work, both dash button and the one on the trunk. I can open it using the key.

Last is the aerial on the trunk doesn’t go up. The fuse is okay, so I assume it’s the motor, but with the other electrical issues I have I’m thinking maybe related.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, please let me know if I need to post these questions seperately

Cheers,
Dan ~ 1921

 

Clock / fuse # 16 / 10 amp right heelboard fuse box

Trunk / # 8 / 15 amp trunk fuse box , same for radio mast

Do you have the original Jaguar / Alpine stereo head with the stereo head security code in your paper work ?

 

Hi, welcome to your Jag.
The car should have 2 keys and fobs, If you didn't get one with the car, they are available, but getting harder to find, so generally more expensive. There are non Jaguar alternatives, but 'proper' Jag ones are best.
With regard to the locking, you should be able to lock the car from the inside using the lock button on the center console. The doors should also lock once the car is moving.
With the above and your trunk button and dashboard trunk release not working, I would suspect that the problem could be with the trunk wiring, which routes via the right hand trunk hinge, there is a known problem when the wires become trapped/stretched and broken.
I suggest you pull the plastic hinge cover and confirm the status of the wires there.
If they are broken, the locking system, trunk release buttons (inside & out), trunk lights and registration lights may not work as expected or at all.
I used the screw on wire connectors to re-attach the wires, before I could get round to soldering them up properly.
Hopefully that helps, if it doesn't you will need to dig a little deeper.

 

Just checked both of those fuses, they’re both fine in terms of not being broken. I’ll find my test light soon and double check they’re working.

The original stereo is still there, but the car didn’t come with any paper work.

 

on the fuse boxes fuse 1 - 9 are hot at all times and fuse 10 , 12 , 14 , 16 relie on the relay in the corner to close

this can be confusing ( like spelling ) when you put a meter on the fuse sockets

There is a hard reset for the security Lock Control Module but it locks out your stereo in countries outside the USA

The SLCM is hot at all times

Your SLCM diagram is on page 204

jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepairPhotos/jagxj1996.pdf

For your 95 you will have differences in the exterior lights

 

I'm planning on putting an after market head unit in, so I'm not fussed if this radio gets locked out.

 

A hard reset is removing both battery cables and touching the cables together

You can use a jumper cable between the 2 battery cables and leave overnight as the SLCU seems to take longer

Place a towel or box over the battery post

The stereo head can still be good just the speakers have dry rotted ( common on X300s ) and there are kits to repair the original speakers . really cheap ( aprox $ 25 US for all 4 speaker kit )

 

So I've had a look in the boot and checked the wiring that runs along the righthand hinge, it all visually looks good there.

I tried the hard reset, left it over night and tried again this morning, still no luck. All fuses are good. I've seen some suggestions about the plug going into the module itself, which is apparently on the lefthand side of the boot, is it that same on a 95 X300?

Is there a relay specific to the central locking I can swap out with another relay to try that? I'll have a look at the diagrams again when I get home but any more suggestions before then would be great.

 

The door latch assemblies have a history of binding and not making theír switches

the driver door is the only one to have a lock position follow up switch

If youre good with a meter you can read it from the SLCM without digging out the latch assembly

Remove the battery positive cable before removing the SLCM connectors ( yes left trunk hinge )

There are a few threads on mechanically freeing up the assemblies ( one at a time )

See page X for the lock relays layout in the rear seat heelboard area

 

As far as the aerial, the toothed plastic feed cord has probably stripped or snapped. Very common. If you hear the motor running for a short time when you turn the stereo on or off, this is basically proof. New aerials are inexpensive. The motor assembly doesn't usually fail. You might have to disassemble the unit to remove broken bits but often times the aerial can be removed and replaced right out of the fender hole.

Many of us have disabled the aerial by unplugging the motor, as other sources are more commonly used.

My car's original aerial worked until earlier this year. Then I unplugged the motor. FM reception is not so good now compared to the towering radio wave mast.