Hi There

My 1994 3.2 XJ6 (XJ40?/X00) is one of the last steel-body models I think before they installed the bigger engines (XJ8 ,XJ12)
there is only one local mechanic who specializes in European vehicles ,He does many Jaguars However he recons he is unfamiliar with mine,
also he doesn't want to do the work without saying so, what ever as I can do general mechanics, obtaining parts is my main issue,
( I suspect the mechanic experiences the same issue, its not kosha to supply the mechanic with parts but he wont order them either)

anyway the only option I have here in (Wellington) New Zealand is to basically import / order the parts (New? for a 30 year old classic!?)
from overseas ... anyway I was hoping to simply change the lower bearings in the rear wheel hub,

seemed straight forward ,I assumed I'd find the part number on the bearings ... but it did not go as planned,
I expected to extract the bearings from inside the hub carrier (in a similar fashion to this video Hub carrier pivot disassembly )

But it appears the bearing is pressed onto a shaft (always the way, the bearing number is hidden by the other side)
now the other side appeared to have like a rubber cap or a bushing ,I left it for a few days thinking I'd look for an engineering workshop with a large press
as my 100mm 3 jaw hub puller wont quite reach (if only the shaft was shorter!),

in a moment of impatience I thought I'd try a more forceful attempt at removing the bearing ...
so I put the part in the freezer hoping to contract the metal a bit beforehand but now (after shifting it a little)
I have not only damaged the rubber cap or bushing but now warped the shim I did not notice above,

Obviously I will now need to replace these 3 parts, I suspect I will find the bearing number I need ... but now I need the rubber cap & shim too probably
worse still is I will need to import them so I will end up paying (NZD)$ 60 shipping for some times (NZD)$ 5 parts (frustrating),

The biggest hassle is identifying them as some places have no pictures provided in the catalogs and I'm unsure of part numbers
(I think I can find the shims & the bearing number should become apparent ,but the capping bush thing throws me off)

if anyone can help with identification or part numbers for the cap (or is it a bushing?)
I would be forever grateful




The second photo illustrates that its a eccentric washer headed bolt ,this is exactly what is housed in the rear wheel hub carrier ( IRS )

 

the term for those is fulcrum bearing and pivot pin, you're not finding them locally the only other big application is old BSA motorcycles. if you're getting killed on international shipping just get a new pin with it

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...ite-up-169352/
https://www.ebay.com/itm/143194047445

 

Thank You xalty

Just what I needed (as finding the correct name will help me narrow my search),
I have just purchased 'BEARING & SEAL KIT, REAR HUB CARRIER LOWER PIVOT C16029'
- but now quickly cancelling to change order BEARING TAPERED, BOTTOM OF REAR HUB CARRIER. CAC4610
(after seeing your post, looks like its probably cheaper & I will still order another for other side too,
it seems now the rubber cap is part of the bearing assembly, which is a relief.

I may have been able to obtain the bearings within the country
But it made sense to order these + I was planning on doing the other side (despite the bearings not being as bad - yet!)

In the end any OEM XJ6 Jaguar parts would have needed to be shipped into the country (increasing the final cost)
, so when I make an order like this, I make sure to add a few cheap rubber items I need into the cart as well.

Thank you also for the links (very helpful, the diagram is just what I needed, along with the writer's journey documenting his progress with photos - fantastic!,
I cannot thank you & other contributors to this forum enough!)
because obtaining the correct parts is just the beginning of another journey involving getting them pressed, greased & reinstalled,

So I will save that post you linked as it's Bang on, just what I needed to help me feel more confident about tackling it.

The Ebay link was also interesting. If what I have ordered isn't right, I will try this next.
(Admittedly, I have no idea if eBay ships to NZ, they probably do ... hopefully someone from NZ with eBay experience may be able to weigh in)

Thank you xalty x 1000

 

as a heads up the jagbits link is the wrong part. always search your car up as X300, XJ6 refers to the old series 1-3.

if the ebay link won’t ship, try sng barratt or moss motors for international shipping

 

Mad_Custard,

Welcome to the Jaguar Forums. It's great to have you with us!

I have moved your thread from the forum for the X350 to the forum for the X300, which as xalty has already mentioned, is the Jaguar factory project code for your 1994 XJ6. Here you will find knowledgeable owners of similar cars.

Cheers,

Don

 

Yes thanks,
You're right - It can get a little confusing ,
Thank you & the Mods for correcting me.

I have now ordered the correct bearings for my 94 (my Vin says 97) (thanks to reading your reply post),
meaning due to my error, I will now also receive the incorrect ones too (indeed for pre-1988 XJ6/XJS with inboard brakes)
But hopefully somebody in NZ may want to buy them, as I know a few local '80s XJ owners,

(Or another Kiwi reading this may want them one day, so I will leave them in the unboxed package as is)
Cheers

 

For a 97 ( produced between 94.5 to 97 ) per VIN # you probably have a 433 hz FOB vs. the more common earlier 315 hz

There are FOB repair parts on E - bay as micro switches and the switches external buttons boots from Australia

More to come , and question if considering suspension work ?

Never install car battery backwards , mark with tape and marker arrow positive post car fwd , a shop can put it in backwards , recoverable

Never over tighten the battery positive post clamp bolt , breaks special curved nut underneith

A rear wheel bearing noise can be confused with a bearing at the output shafts on the rear differentual , can be done as common DIY by owners without removing diff

 

Thanks , Yes its a 3.2L - in very good condition + mint leather interior
The previous owner installed a new Door Locking Module (and I have the old)
But the FOB has yet to be re-coded, I have some instructions printed somewhere for tuning the key FOB involving a series of pushes of the Valet Boot Switch.

(The 433 hz FOB vs. the more common earlier 315 hz may explain why it was not coded after module replacement, Its good to now know the why)

Although admittedly, I'm just as happy physically locking it for now! - indeed the installation of the dry cell battery is important,
Fortunately, the previous owner replaced it before I bought it, another thing I only discovered recently
was that according to the VIN it left the factory as a left-hand drive,
So it must have been converted to right-hand around the time it was imported to NZ.
I'm glad to have the last Jaguar with the classic steel-bodied design.

Thanks for the Tips - appreciated.

 

Takes alot to swap left and right steering so most likely at factory

There is a breakdown on the VIN codes somewhere , and there is confusion in that area that numbers and letters changed on the X300 from my light understanding

There are county specific part #s on the SLCM , and the rear window FOB antenna can be the wrong 315 / 433 style in a TSB as the windows arived at factory and put car together

The SLCM is located under the fuel cap well in the trunk and is mounted at a 15 degree angle , water can get through well and get on the connectors jacking up the logic steps

Do you have 1 or 2 door key barrels ?

There is a SLCM reset depending on if you have a Jaguar / Alpine factory stereo head ( locks out ( theft protection ) stereo if you don't have stereo codes on your paperwork )

Remove battery positive post before removing or installing SLCM as things in the SLCM can get out of sequence

There is also a pin 4 to 5 making of a ignition switch linier switch on key removal / out triggering the SLCM to lock up and go to sleep or it drains the battery overnight referred to as a parisitic drain , lub and a dripping mess so towel on pants leg

pic and link coming

Xj 1995 - 1997 (from 720125 To 812255) (x300) Classic / Security/locking Module | Jaguar Land Rover Classic Parts






Ask questions to get you further along

They brought back out of retirement the original body stylest to bring back the curved lnes of the series 1 - 3 , 3 is the oh my god level of oh baby oh baby oh baby

X300 has slight curves in her hips if looking at it from rear

 

Oh Wow,

Yes , that explains why the FOB never seemed to connect to the replaced module! ,
It did not come with the original stereo & its just the 1 barrel lock (if not counting the boot lock,
Jaguar really made it difficult,but I guess I'm still glad that the Alarm system works - alongside physically locking it up,
(by physically locking it I'm more conscious of it being locked, as its a bit passive pushing a FOB & hard to remember - so it's peace of mind)
I heard the boots were prone to leak & that may be why the locking module was replaced. I still have the original unit.
Luckily The boot is bonwe dry thanks to previous owner keeping it in a garage,I bought a custom fit car cover
so I do my best to keep it out of the rain, although not always - but the boot seals seem good.

Also I'm glad not to suffer battery drain issues ,

I think it has low mileage considering its age. I have found AI ( xAI - Grok) has been pretty good with most questions I have for it,
from I.T support to Jaguar Questions Grok seems to have helped me with torque settings & even doing tool comparisons,
but yes this Forum is an even better place to ask questions as I'm amazed at the wealth of hands on knowledge here,

I agree about the XJ Curves ... I contemplated buying a 2006 XJ6 ... but mainly with a thought of swaping the rear IRS,
I'm glad A.I talked me out of it ,reminding me that the 2006 XJ despite the great curves & an updated look was an Aluminum Chasis
and to be honest I thought the 2006 interior looked a little cheap ... but I think that they sold/built my 96 steel body XJ at a loss
which is why they soon put bigger motors in ... but I think after they sold Jaguar & the new (FORD?) factory built a cheapened version.

Sure I'm Bias , I love Classic cars & that's why I love the XJ body shape, which has that classic look since series I,
There definitely is some kind of discrepancy with the VIN number as its Registered as a '95 but I think it left the factory in '94

Ai tells me the last digits suggest 97 & yes the 'L' was news to me as It was built in the U.K & shipped to NZ
(maybe it was originally set for the U.S market & then they changed it before selling production to FORD?)

Thanks for the info on the FOB, I am a locksmith & good at I.T but I ended up resigning to not attempting to fix it,
I will no doubt work on it in the future, though, now that I have a better understanding of the FOB /Alarm complexities.

 

Sent reply but my computer behind the curve will try later , see TSBs section 18 for SLCM

 

Thank you everyone for your replies,

Idid finally manage to replace both the Rear Piviot bearings,
I ended up needing to buy a bushing press kit, which helped remove the burnt-out one shown from the hollow rod,
after pressing it back into the wishbone the other one fell out! - just as well I ordered x2 from the U.S
(although I mistakenly ordered 2x for the inboard break models & minutes after my mistake it was already being shipped ...
so if anyone needs any OEM rear pivot bearings in NZ I have some brand new I can't use)

The hardest part was as the Rear was jacked up the unsprung weight made it tricky to squeeze the lower part of the hub carrier back into the wishbone,
(the fact it was such a tight fit was a good sign as originally it was rattling around a fraction!)
so it took a lot of grease & finesse (and using things like spring compressors as I did not want to break the Axle nut to separate the wheel hub carrier
and a sissor jack under the wheel hub carrier - separate to the hydraulic jacks lifting the body, also I avoided removing the brake callipers...
It was trcker pitting the wheel carrier back in than it was replacing the bearings ... but I'm glad I finally did it